candlesinflorida

I want to make an impression in the top of my wax. Almost like a reverse embed. Has anyone done this or do you have any suggestions? I am thinking maybe I can melt the tops with a heat gun (a little? A lot?) and use a wax seal stamp? Or should I give up that idea and make embeds? If so, how do I make an embed with soy wax...or do I need to make them with a “stronger” wax? And last question...how do I make or buy a custom embed/mold?? ANY advice or experience is much appreciated!

I don’t think copies will be as good-they have an amazing throw.

Is it too lame to ask, what is specific gravity? And what could it tell us about the candle making process? (Slept through hs science and went to a college w/ zero actual requirements-but now I am interested!)

But I imagine this gets pretty expensive, right? Their slabs just seem so high per pound.

Never thought of a pump. I have been trying to carefully pour without splashing. Not so good at that.

“quick cooling” like the freezer?

Do you do everything by stirring in pouring pots-or you have large melting equipment/agitators/hoses for pouring etc?

Thanks- when you say “decant”, do you do anything special other than pouring it into a smaller, more manageable container?

Thanks! You are always so helpful!

I just posted a question about problems that involved 464 and 444. Not sure if this affects you as well, but in Florida in the summer I have found that 464 arrived "smushy". It just didn't look flaky and some of it was all chunky. The heat and rainy weather might have created problems in the summer transport. At the start of summer, I switched to 444 bc it has a higher melt point and I assume it can handle heat better. As for the cracks, the fact that they are in a ring makes me think that the temperature of the container is a factor. If the candle cools while warmer on the outside (near the glass, away from the wick) and then cools cooler on the inside (near the wick), the different temperatures could cause the inner to "separate" or shrink from the outer. Basically, a cold wick area and a warm glass area. I am wondering if you can create more consistency. Like maybe wick the jars early, do not heat the containers (if you are doing that), pour as close to room temp as possible, pour towards the wick to warm it up, pour slowly in gently circles around the wick. I know this sounds like a lot of overthought...but when I do slight variations like this, it drastically changes the outcome.

If you don't mind my asking, which coconut wax do you use and in how much percentage? I have tried mixing 444 with 10% coconut/soy wax from Lab and Co and it was expensive. They DID look and smell great, but I wasn't sure it was worth the extra cost. Now after reading your words, I think it must be worth it! I know there is another company I have ordered coconut wax from, but at the time they were sold out -maybe it was Containers and Supplies?

Any thoughts totally appreciated on this situation: I have a customer who approved a sample candle, and asked me to make 65 more for their store. The sample was made with FO from a 20lb vat (huge plastic container from fragrance company) and 444 wax. I used the same materials to make the 65 candles. However, at one point, I needed more wax and the company I order from sent 464 "by accident" because they were sold out of 444. It was a rainy, hot week and the 464 wasn't as flaky as it should be. It arrived all chunky and a bit smushy. Not good. I never shook/stirred the fragrance oil. I just poured from the top of the vat, about 10 ounces at a time, into a smaller container. Now the store tells me that some of the candles don't smell the same as others. It sounds like there are just different notes that are stronger in some, less in others. I am wondering whether it is the wax change (444 and 464 are "basically the same" according to the wax distributor...although I don't believe that they are identical or they would have the same number!) Can the FO "change" when it sits in a plastic vat and is not stirred prior to use; like could some of the chemicals "sink" to the bottom, and therefore different scents would predominate? Any advice from the veterans, on this? I suppose I should have stirred the 20 lbs more, but I didn't. Just wondering if that is how to avoid this, next time?

Quite...uh...interesting. What do they call them?

Has anyone used this multi use base? I was thinking of branching out from the candle line. Any suggestions appreciated! (Sorry if this is the wring area -moderators please feel free to move!)

Has anyone seen this dupe anywhere?

I spoke too soon. After I posted about rust...guess what happened??! Rust. I was working with 100 gold tins from specialty bottle. Everything was fine until I switched from 444 wax to 415, just for the last 10-15 candles. For some odd reason, all those candles developed a weird orangey ring along the edge of the wax.

Has anyone seen square candle containers? (or perhaps vases that could work as candle containers) Or has anyone had experience making them? Not clear-looking for nice (maybe matte) black or white square containers like https://tajacollection.com

Has anyone tried using an etching pen on wax, on the top of a container candle? Picture is attached of the kind of device I am talking about but not sure it epuld work, or if there is a different type of device to try.

Here is my opinion if you are still looking for opinions... I think the shallow tin is very cool. I like them and have considered trying them out. I think they have a modern vibe. BUT as mentioned, they probably will not be so great to light and use repeatedly. Do all candle tin descriptions mention RUST?? I have never noticed that before. I assume they are seamless? I have been looking for gold tins and I have noticed that many tins are actually not made for candles, and it can be a little tricky if you aren't used to sourcing tins (which I am not).

Thanks!

Looking for white tea, like the kind used in the W hotel candles.

I have ordered from AFI. In fact, I am on the last drops of a very large order of Lime/Basil/Mandarin I bought over a year ago. It arrived in what can only be described as a gas can...like when you run out of gas, and have to purchase the can and fill it up and get back to your car! It took me a while just to figure out how to undo the cap! They were very easy to deal with; quick shipping too.

I have looked through the archives and can't find a discussion on this, but I remember hearing about complaints about either CD or ECO wicks. They were really mushroom-ey and messy..and I just can't remember which one had the issues. Does anyone recall?

That is a good point-I was wondering about that. On the link (way) above, the company uses a backing on their dust covers.

I am wondering about the best material for dust covers. I make them myself, with a digital cutting machine (cricut) because I use so many different diameter containers. I have created a file that is a circle with a pull tab, and I can easily make it any size and create any shape(s) for the wick opening. I just got a wholesale order for some beautiful gold container candles. (See photo) My question is what material would be ideal for the covers? I can use clear plastic, heavy paper stock, cardboard, (even wood veneer!) Candles look terrible in stores when they aren’t covered-but not sure what will work best with the wax and not get icky. Any thoughts on this? Would thin plastic get sweaty? If I use the regular look of printed paper or cardstock, does anyone know what “type” of paper works best?