sudsnwicks

Oh wow, really? Do you have any problem with the seams opening up? You see, mine is being done by hand too, but DH felt it would fall apart more easily and suggested machine stitching. It would be reassuring to know that yours is holding up just fine.

Oh how cute!

Michele, You don't have to make it come across like a complaint when you call them. Just say you're confused because you were quoted $94 and the email confirmation is now saying $132.

It depends on the shape of the jar. For example if the jar is tapered and the bottom is smaller than the top, then you should use a wick suited to the diameter at the bottom. If your wick was suited for the diameter at the top, then it would be too big when it gets to the bottom.

The quote was given by an actual person and not the shopping cart, right? If it were me, I would go back to this person and ask why there was a discrepancy. Had the quote been $132, would you still have bought? If so, then I wouldn't be too upset, but I'd still query as to why there was a discrepancy.

You could use this calculator: http://www.rainbowmeadow.com/infocenter/calc_soap/rainbow_soapcalc.php It lets you input the amounts of oils you actually used. Then it gives you the lye amounts at various superfat levels. You can then see how much you ended up superfatting. If it's not way too high, you should be fine.

They are 4 oz jars, right? A 4 oz jar will probably hold 3 oz of wax if you fill it full. Since these aren't full it is probably 2 oz of wax. That's about the same amount of wax as a votive. If you go to a store like walmart you can buy votives 4 for $1. So the 75 cent difference would account for the cost of the jar.

It should burn down similar to a container candle.

Is it possible they meant they have the top completely liquefy so that it needs to be burned in a container? I have had some people burn it on a plate not knowing it isn't a pillar and of course it collapsed.

The top will turn to liquid. Same as the melt pool for a container candle.

It's pretty!

Thanks for the link! It says a commercial comforter (queen size) is 86"x93". I have a commercial comforter and that seems about right. This was why I was confused, as the batting at 90"x108" was so much bigger. The list of size considerations was helpful as it explained why I might need to make it larger than the standard commercial comforter size.

It is for my bed. Right now we have a full size bed but DH eventually wants us to get a queen size, so whatever bedding I get needs to be queen size in order for me not to have to start all over again later. My squares are 5"x5" (after seam allowances). It is not my first quilt but it is my first one of this size. The others were all lap-sized. I'm doing it by hand. I'm not bothered by the amount of sewing needed as I don't have to finish it by any particular deadline. I'm just trying to make sure the numbers sound right.

I bought a queen size batting and its dimensions are 90"x108". For those of you who quilt, is this the size you make? It seems so big. I keep losing track of how many squares I have and how many more I need and get so bogged down I have to use my calculator.

TexasBrat, do you have your etsy store ready yet? I know you told me its name before but I lost the slip of paper I wrote it on.

Jadewicks, my votive molds aren't new either. Got them from Peaks and they are still fine. Like 4 years ago maybe? Not sure what happened with yours. Hope the new ones you get will be better.

Ahhh, gotcha MissMary

I'm no expert on biz , but wouldn't it be better to build up your own brand name, rather than wanting to be found when someone does a search for a competitor?

I pour at 155-160 for 4630. I didn't know 170 was what was recommended. Anyway this lower temp works for me. I trim my wick to 1/4 inch. At least that's what I think it is, as I just estimate instead of measuring with a ruler.

I wonder how they are able to prove someone is practising shill bidding? If a family member is helping to inflate the price, I don't see how they could be linked to the seller especially if they have a different last name and/or live in a different city.

It would be hard to guess the correct proportions. Let's say the ingredient list is: coconut oil, palm oil, olive oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, castor oil. Well then it could be 50% coconut oil, 25% palm oil, 10% olive oil, 5% shea butter, 5% cocoa butter, 5% castor oil. Or it could be 20% coconut oil, 20% palm oil, 20% olive oil, 20% shea butter, 10% cocoa butter, 10% castor oil. Those are 2 rather different recipes.

You are right the upscale packaging has a lot to do with it. And don't forget the famous brand name. Having a celebrity endorsement also contributes to the brand name being desirable, sought after. As for actual burn quality, I am not sure how many consumers even know what to look for. I don't know if the underwicking is a design flaw, or if it is because the manufacturer was afraid the consumer would not bother to extinguish the flame after the recommended X number of hours. A lot of people I've come across don't bother to read the burn instructions on the label. Underwicked candles tend to leave a lot of leftover wax, and my grandma used to use these leftovers as pin cushions. I know she wasn't aware you weren't supposed to have so much leftover wax. She thought this was normal. I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of others consider these problems to be normal either.

Thanks Jeana!

I would like to know too, as I saw they advertised the case of 4 gallons for $59. That is already more than the 35 lb (5 gallon) price.

You can try to rebatch it if you don't want to waste your ingredients. It doesn't sound like a whole lot splashed out, so you should be okay there. Lard does take a long time, especially when mixing by hand. But you don't have to stand there the whole time. You can stir for a while, walk away for a while, then come back and stir some more.