Giving Up!!! // Will PAY for help!!!

[Ravens]

Hmmm, how could I have missed this thread? I use the 12 oz. Status jar and single wick it with zincs, but it's a different wax from yours - I use either the 4786 or 4786 mixed with 4633.

All my 16oz. apothecaries are double wicked with two 51z. Always must do a second pour; let them sit several days and the HT is beautiful.

I've also used the 6006 in the Status jar; I use either zincs (51 or 60), paper or CD.

Don't give up; you will eventually get it wicked right! :smiley2:

HTH

[HorseScentS]

Hmmm, how could I have missed this thread? I use the 12 oz. Status jar and single wick it with zincs, but it's a different wax from yours - I use either the 4786 or 4786 mixed with 4633.

All my 16oz. apothecaries are double wicked with two 51z. Always must do a second pour; let them sit several days and the HT is beautiful.

I've also used the 6006 in the Status jar; I use either zincs (51 or 60), paper or CD.

Don't give up; you will eventually get it wicked right! :smiley2:

HTH

You just reminded me of a candle shop owner who used the Dollar Tree status jars and 6006 with a high FO load and 60z or sometimes 62z.

[Ravens]

You just reminded me of a candle shop owner who used the Dollar Tree status jars and 6006 with a high FO load and 60z or sometimes 62z.

Yes, I've learned that good results can be achieved with all those 3 wicks (zinc, paper, CD) and the 6006 - depending on the FO and amount of FO.

I too buy the Status jars at The Dollar Tree (I make sure the label says "Libbey" and "Made in the USA"); I see no sense paying shipping when I can buy them locally. I use the lids from LoneStar, the glass ones and the metal ones :smiley2:

[glowworm]

You just reminded me of a candle shop owner who used the Dollar Tree status jars and 6006 with a high FO load and 60z or sometimes 62z.

Do you miss the days of using 6006 (one of my favorites)?

[chuck_35550]

This is the wax you need to order from Clarus (warehouse is in Dallas): CSB Stasis 3022 a high veggie blend container wax, 70% soy and 30% paraffin. Use cdn or cd wicks and start at 6% fo load. Heat your wax to about 185 degrees add fo and color and pour into warm, clean jars at 180 degrees and place in a covered box to slowly cool. That's it. Request a sample slab and see what you think. This is the fabled Greenleaf wax that was so hot several years back and its just as good as it ever was then. They also have their own version of 6006 which is pretty good too but I have used the other wax for about 6 years now and have never found anything else to take its place. Just driver over and pick up a slab, I promise you will like this product. HTH

Steve

†

Edited September 12, 2012 by chuck_35550

[Holly]

This is the wax you need to order from Clarus (warehouse is in Dallas): CSB Stasis 3022 a high veggie blend container wax, 70% soy and 30% paraffin. Use cdn or cd wicks and start at 6% fo load. Heat your wax to about 185 degrees add fo and color and pour into warm, clean jars at 180 degrees and place in a covered box to slowly cool. That's it. Request a sample slab and see what you think. This is the fabled Greenleaf wax that was so hot several years back and its just as good as it ever was then. They also have their own version of 6006 which is pretty good too but I have used the other wax for about 6 years now and have never found anything else to take its place. Just driver over and pick up a slab, I promise you will like this product. HTH

Steve

†

This is the wax I was telling her about, which I have used and will use again. I just reopened and only offer wax melts right now.

[chuck_35550]

Congrats Holly! You are using 3022 for melts?

Steve

[Holly]

Congrats Holly! You are using 3022 for melts?

Steve

I used to use it for tealights and some limited addition candles (seasonal) that I had. I used a pure soy for my main line at that time which was a great wax but too time-consuming to produce. I use another wax right now for melts but dabbling with a blend that has 3022 in it...my own blend. Not sure yet on it until I test more fragrances.

[ChandlerWicks]

Oh great, now I have to try this one!

This is the wax you need to order from Clarus (warehouse is in Dallas): CSB Stasis 3022 a high veggie blend container wax, 70% soy and 30% paraffin. Use cdn or cd wicks and start at 6% fo load. Heat your wax to about 185 degrees add fo and color and pour into warm, clean jars at 180 degrees and place in a covered box to slowly cool. That's it. Request a sample slab and see what you think. This is the fabled Greenleaf wax that was so hot several years back and its just as good as it ever was then. They also have their own version of 6006 which is pretty good too but I have used the other wax for about 6 years now and have never found anything else to take its place. Just driver over and pick up a slab, I promise you will like this product. HTH

Steve

†

[laurenscandlebakery]

This is the wax you need to order from Clarus (warehouse is in Dallas): CSB Stasis 3022 a high veggie blend container wax, 70% soy and 30% paraffin. Use cdn or cd wicks and start at 6% fo load. Heat your wax to about 185 degrees add fo and color and pour into warm, clean jars at 180 degrees and place in a covered box to slowly cool. That's it. Request a sample slab and see what you think. This is the fabled Greenleaf wax that was so hot several years back and its just as good as it ever was then. They also have their own version of 6006 which is pretty good too but I have used the other wax for about 6 years now and have never found anything else to take its place. Just driver over and pick up a slab, I promise you will like this product. HTH

Steve

†

Thanks so much, Chuck! I just might give that a try

[HorseScentS]

Do you miss the days of using 6006 (one of my favorites)?

No, I personally don't like 6006. I'm a 4627 kind of gal.

[Holly]

Thanks so much, Chuck! I just might give that a try

Lauren, that is the wax I was telling you about in my post that has given me good results in scent throw. It is a wax though that sometimes can be hard to single wick in larger one wicked containers....like status jars. It usually has to play catch up unless you have a torch in there. This is just my finding. It tends to burn down before out. It is important to burn it long enough in each burn. As it travels down the jar it does play catch up from the heat. It is just not the real easy to get a full meltpool in each burn, especially towards the top of the candle.

It is my favorite parasoy blend and I like it over other paraffin blends as well. Each wax has it pros and cons.

P.S. I should also say, this wax double wicks better in non tall jars with necks, like the 10 oz. Apothecary. It also does well in straight sided (no lip or neck) jars for double wicking (i.e. Libbey Cylinder jars) or triple wicking in the real large cylinder jars.

Edited September 12, 2012 by Holly

[laurenscandlebakery]

Question....I'm testing with 6006 right now. I poured two candles last night and both have sink holes. I heated to 190, stirred for two mins and then poured. The first jar was room temperature and the second I heated up a bit. Do I need to pour hotter, cooler? Also, will the sink holes inhibit my testing? I know I could always use a heat gun, but I'm afraid that might burn off some of the fragrance oil and since I haven't been getting a throw at all in the past...I don't want to risk it. Thanks!

[Holly]

Question....I'm testing with 6006 right now. I poured two candles last night and both have sink holes. I heated to 190, stirred for two mins and then poured. The first jar was room temperature and the second I heated up a bit. Do I need to pour hotter, cooler? Also, will the sink holes inhibit my testing? I know I could always use a heat gun, but I'm afraid that might burn off some of the fragrance oil and since I haven't been getting a throw at all in the past...I don't want to risk it. Thanks!

Pouring cooler and slower definitely helps. If it still continues, you may have to poke relief holes and do repours. I did not use that wax long enough to know if it is common with that wax and did not test it in narrow tall jars. I do know that taller containers and certain types of wax (pure soy mostly) can have this problem. I had to poke relief holes with the soy I used and did repours....used it in the 16 oz. apothecary jars which are tall. I hated this extra step and it definitely made my candles more time-cosuming to make. It was a must though. Not all of them would get air pockets, but I wanted to make sure it never happened. That is the main reason why I will not use that wax again even though it was a great soy for scent throw and a good wax for double wicking. I am sure there will be others here who will reply that use that wax in those containers that will know if this is common or not with the 6006 and what has helped them with it.

P.S. I don't recall reading it being a big problem with 6006 but maybe that is the case if poured at a lower temp. Did you pour at the suggested temp?

Edited September 15, 2012 by Holly

[rjdaines]

Sink holes tend to form next to wicks, the worst of the ones you don't see until the candle is burning and then it's too late to fix. While 6006 is a low shrink wax, I found that it shrinks more that 4630. A brief heat gun treated should fix it and you won't lose a significant amount of FO. What causes sink holes? People seem to think that uneven cooling causes it. 6006 has a recommended pour temp of between 160 and 180, so you might have been in that range. Container shape may also cause uneven cooling.

[HorseScentS]

Question....I'm testing with 6006 right now. I poured two candles last night and both have sink holes. I heated to 190, stirred for two mins and then poured. The first jar was room temperature and the second I heated up a bit. Do I need to pour hotter, cooler? Also, will the sink holes inhibit my testing? I know I could always use a heat gun, but I'm afraid that might burn off some of the fragrance oil and since I haven't been getting a throw at all in the past...I don't want to risk it. Thanks!

The chandler who taught me to make candles with 6006 said to pour at 150, so I did and got great results with no shrinkage, no sink holes at all, got flat tops. I heated my jars in the oven on warm. I had the heat up near 80 in the room they were cooling in so they cooled slowly, but I could have put a box over them in a cooler room instead.

Her candles never even developed wet spots in her shop, but mine did at home, so I don't know what her secret was for preventing wet spots.

Edited September 15, 2012 by HorsescentS

[laurenscandlebakery]

Thanks for the feedback on the sink holes everyone! The third time around, I tried several things differently. I mixed 6006 with 15% soy as I've seen recommended on the board several times. I used CBA as the soy because it was the only one I had handy and I saw it mentioned on the board as well. I just hope it won't inhibit hot throw. I was hoping it'd help with the wet spots and sink holes though. Then, I pre-heated my oven to the lowest temperature (170) and turned it off as soon as my wax reached my ideal temperature of 190. I poured the fragrance oil in, stirred for two mins, poured in the jar, and put the jar inside the oven. I was hoping this would help it cool a lot slower as it is covered from drafts and also would cool down along with the oven. I checked on it 45 minutes later and the oven still felt pretty warm. I didn't think the oven would hold heat that long lmao so I probably burnt out some of the fragrance oil!!! Oh well, its a learning process. Checked on it this morning and NO SINK HOLES!!!!!! So I accomplished my main goal, but may have created other problems along the way hahahaha

May try the oven thing again, but maybe I'll pre-heat it before I start candle making and then turn it off as soon as I put the wax on the double boiler.

[ChandlerWicks]

I get sinkholes from pouring too hot. I've never been able to move a jar after pouring wax. The wax always rocks up & down & leaves a mark on the jar. I must be a clutz!

[HorseScentS]

I get sinkholes from pouring too hot. I've never been able to move a jar after pouring wax. The wax always rocks up & down & leaves a mark on the jar. I must be a clutz!

Does the pouring temp affect the HT? or does it only affect shrinkage?

[Holly]

Glad that seemed to work. Just to make sure, when you said sink holes, I assumed you did mean either holes around the wicks or holes that open up after lit. Is this what you meant? You may want to try adding that other wax without putting it in the oven while cooling to see if just by adding the wax will help. When you go to make many candles or get to the point where you are out of your house, it is very difficult to do this. I have heard some covering their candles with a box but that can become difficult over time as well for big orders, etc. Most pure soys are usually worse about "sink holes", but I have not worked with CBA. Glad you woke up without sinkholes!

[Holly]

Does the pouring temp affect the HT? or does it only affect shrinkage?

I have never found pouring too hot to affect the scent throw. If anything, to me waiting longer for it to cool down before pouring would burn off more scent, but this would only be for larger batches.....a whole big pot or if one was pouring from a very big container. It stays hotter longer in the heated pot and with a larger batch of wax. If you are making more than one candle to me waiting longer to pour it would increase chance of burn off but many soy users have to wait for wax to get to 150 or lower and it works fine. I used to pour at 150 and it never affected scent throw, not that I noticed.

[laurenscandlebakery]

Glad that seemed to work. Just to make sure, when you said sink holes, I assumed you did mean either holes around the wicks or holes that open up after lit. Is this what you meant? You may want to try adding that other wax without putting it in the oven while cooling to see if just by adding the wax will help. When you go to make many candles or get to the point where you are out of your house, it is very difficult to do this. I have heard some covering their candles with a box but that can become difficult over time as well for big orders, etc. Most pure soys are usually worse about "sink holes", but I have not worked with CBA. Glad you woke up without sinkholes!

Yes, by sink holes I meant holes around the wick. I haven't lit anything yet because I wanna let the wax cure for 5 days. I'm gonna try to make another one with the added soy but not putting it in the oven. With the first two that had sink holes, they dried underneath a box but still got sink holes. I'm gonna try pouring cooler, too. I'll just add the fragrance oil in later, that way it won't burn off while the wax is cooling.

[ChandlerWicks]

Try pouring at 165-170 & slowly. If you add FO at too low of a temp, it might not work. I've also found pouring above the fill line can cause sink holes. Especially when I was testing with Jelly Jars.

[stlredbird]

So I'm brand new to the forums and to candle making. We just made our first batch this weekend with limited success. The success was that we didn't burn the house down, the not so successful was the no scent throw and wet spots.

Anyway, this thread is really informative while being really scary for a newbie. While doing a little research after our first batch that had really no throw I was thinking about getting vybar. How does everyone feel about using vybar with soy or palm (the two waxes we plan to use)? Does it work well, is it worth it?

[simply fragrant]

So I'm brand new to the forums and to candle making. We just made our first batch this weekend with limited success. The success was that we didn't burn the house down, the not so successful was the no scent throw and wet spots.

stiredbird,

It appears that your burned your candle right after you made it? I don't use soy, but my understanding is that soy candles must be "cured" for a few days before burning to get the best scent throw, maybe some of the soy experts will chime in. In the meantime there is tons of information available by using the "search" function, it will become your new best friend! Best of luck!