Oh my god, seriously????

[KTT]

Hi everyone. New to this board and candle making. I was wondering if I could get any opinions/advice? I am having a terrible time with this candle thing!

I did a ton of research before I got started, and decided that I wanted to go the soy route, so I ordered Ecosoya CB (135, I think), and got to work. Actually, that wax was contained in a Soy Container Starter Kit I bought from Peaks. Anyway, I got to work, but never could get a hot throw with the soy, no matter what I did. Plus I was having frosting issues on the sides (tops were always smooth) that I couldn't seem to get rid of, whether I heated the jars prior or not. Now, I had read prior, that soy is really hard to scent. Some people can do wonders with it, and others can't. I just figured I was one of the ones who can't, lol, so I ordered and tried a different wax. This particular wax is IGI6006, and I just bought it like a month ago from CS. There were tins included with the soy kit, but I didn't want to use those, so when I ordered the soy kit, I also ordered a few 5oz hocking jars (I think they're pretty). Those jars are what I've been using in all my tests.

Ohh-kay......(*deep breath*), in various instances, I've heated the wax from anywhere between 180-190 degrees, and all my pours have been at 165 degrees. The first wick I tried was a C60, which is what had come in the soy kit I ordered prior. That turned out to be too big for my size container and the 6006 wax, so I ordered sample wicks from other series. Besides the C60, I've tried Eco 2 through 6, HTP 52, 62, and 73, LX 16 and 18. I cannot get a full melt pool to save my life!!! It's driving me crazy!!!! The jar isn't even quite 3" across, and I still can't get a full melt pool! Seriously??? I don't know if you'd call it "tunneling" per se (maybe?), but when they burn, they get almost to the edge, but there's still some wax left on the sides of the jar, and especially in the corners. I don't know what to do about it. No, they don't catch up with the subsequent burn tests.

I thought that maybe the temp was too low in my apartment, so I tried turning the a/c off for a bit just for while I'm working on candles, but that didn't solve the issue. I thought maybe the candles were cooling too fast, so I started letting them sit in a empty room temp cooler to set/cure, but that didn't solve the issue. Oh, speaking of curing, I do let the candles cure for at least 24 hours, before lighting. Thinking the cooler wasn't enough, I began setting the cooler into a clear plastic storage container, and then setting the candles in the cooler, but that didn't help either. I've always made sure the candles aren't near any drafts, so that's not it either. I measure my fragrance (I don't use dye by choice) and wax on a scale I have that measures in grams, ounces, pounds, etc, so that can't be the problem, either.

Any suggestions, folks? Anything at all else I can try? Different wax? Wicks? Should I start singing to the candles, first? Invite them to a movie? What do I do? :smiley2:

[scrochet]

Oh I feel your pain!!!! I wish I could help but I have never worked with soy. I have been making candles since 2007 and there are a few scents that I just love but for the life of me I can't find the right wick for that scent. I sure that someone who has worked with the wax you are using will chime in and point you in the right direction.....you came to the right place. Just don't give up you will get it, thats one thing about this business you have to test, retest and test again. Good luck in your candlemaking journey.....

[candlelady]

Welcome to the candlemaking addiction!

I used 6006 and added 15% ez soy per pound of 6006. HT was fantastic! Creamy appearance and just really nice looking candle.

I used the 8 oz and 16 oz. square mason jars (not familiar with your 5 oz) and used CD wicks. In the 8 oz. jar I used a CD14 in the 16 oz. jar I used a CD16, for

most of the FO's I used. Heated to 190 and poured after mixing color and scent. I did not heat the jars either. (I use to with the old J50).

I've since sold my business last year, but if you'd like to try some CD wicks I'd be happy to send you some free (i have tons left).

Well, this is just what worked for me. Just thought I'd throw that out.

Good luck!

[Beth]

Just in my experience, 24 hours cure has never, ever, ever been enough for HT.

[Judy, USMC]

Let those candles set for another few days and then light them off again. Let us know if that added cure time helps ...

[KTT]

Thanks everyone for replying! To Candlelady: Since I haven't tried any zincs, CD, or smaller sized cotton wicks yet, I have already placed an order last night. Thanks a million though for your offer of CD wicks!

For those who say to let the candles cure for more than 24 hours, how long should I let them cure?

Last night, I was being bummed about my candles when I started thinking about the containers I've been using. They're square, not round, and I wonder if the shape has anything to do with my issues. The bottom is 2" across, and the tops are 2.75"-3". I also ordered some straight sided ROUND containers as well, so I can test that theory, and I'm going to feel so stupid if that's what the problem is! Maybe a more advanced candle maker could make a square one work, but maybe that wasn't the best place for a noob like me to start. When I get the round containers in and do some testing, I will post the results. Geez, I feel stupid already, as I bet trying to work with squares at this stage was dumb. lol.

[Beth]

I err on the side of caution, errr, disappointment, & wait a week before testing. I've had some FOs take weeks...

[Lorelei]

I would love to make the suggestion that you use the jelly jars to start your testing out. Try one jar, master that one, then move to a different jar. For me, it took months and months to expand my jar options. Jelly jars are easy to work with, smaller amount of wax to test and they perform well. Get the tapered ones that are a bit smaller on the bottom than the top.

[Candybee]

KTT - I've worked with CB135. It used to be my wax for soy candles when I was selling soy candles. It took me a year of testing before I could get a great candle from it. It took me another year before I had a great selling line of soy candles.

Working with soy takes a mountain of patience, lots of testing, including trial and error with scent testing and finding the right wick. You have to let your candles cure and depending on your scent will have an effect on the scent throw. Some scents need 24-48 hours while others need a full week or two, while there are even some that don't throw well until a full month of curing. Also, there are some scents that just won't work in it but another formulation from a different supplier does.

If you want to work with soy just be patient and diligent and test a lot. It may take time but the effort will pay off.

[TallTayl]

The container you selected for your first trials is a tough one. Those with narrower bases than the top take some skill and patience to wick properly.

Soy is a challenging medium, but well worth it. Sounds like you're on the right track getting different wick families to test. Try to keep your variables consistent so you can tell exactly what is not working. Take copious notes. And allow at least several days to a week before you test for fragrance throw. Time is your friend with soy.

[KTT]

I would love to make the suggestion that you use the jelly jars to start your testing out. Try one jar, master that one, then move to a different jar. For me, it took months and months to expand my jar options. Jelly jars are easy to work with, smaller amount of wax to test and they perform well. Get the tapered ones that are a bit smaller on the bottom than the top.

Ah, see I think uneven containers are causing my issue at this time! lol.

[KTT]

KTT - I've worked with CB135. It used to be my wax for soy candles when I was selling soy candles. It took me a year of testing before I could get a great candle from it. It took me another year before I had a great selling line of soy candles.

Working with soy takes a mountain of patience, lots of testing, including trial and error with scent testing and finding the right wick. You have to let your candles cure and depending on your scent will have an effect on the scent throw. Some scents need 24-48 hours while others need a full week or two, while there are even some that don't throw well until a full month of curing. Also, there are some scents that just won't work in it but another formulation from a different supplier does.

If you want to work with soy just be patient and diligent and test a lot. It may take time but the effort will pay off.

I liked the smooth tops on CB135, but couldn't get it to stop frosting on the sides and no hot throw. I like the soy blend wax much better. One of these days when I get better at all this, I may test the plain soy again.

[KTT]

The container you selected for your first trials is a tough one. Those with narrower bases than the top take some skill and patience to wick properly.

Soy is a challenging medium, but well worth it. Sounds like you're on the right track getting different wick families to test. Try to keep your variables consistent so you can tell exactly what is not working. Take copious notes. And allow at least several days to a week before you test for fragrance throw. Time is your friend with soy.

Yeah, it seems I did pick an odd shape to start with. I had some old votive containers around my house that I had bought from walmart a couple years ago. I cleaned out the wax, washed them, dried them, and poured in my own wax. Did a test on one of them (letting the others cure longer), and no problem at all getting a full meltpool! Lol, I think I should just stick to round containers for now, and save the fancy stuff for when I'm better at this.

[sporadic]

Yes, wait at least a week for cure time - that will give you the best results. Also, I never had any luck with the Ecosoya brand (poor throw), I use Golden Brands 464 mainly. Sometimes I'll blend in a little paraffin (about 30%) to make a good parasoy candle.

[Lorelei]

I use 415 and Ecosoya PB and both have great throw for me. Both need a good cure time.

[TammyGCC]

I use the Soy wax also. I also use the EcoSoya CB-135. I use just plain canning mason jars 8oz. I use the 2002 wicks from candle wick (Square braided). I will tell you this frosting is natural there is probably nothing you can do about it. Wax has attitude I have found that out. I depends on the scent you use. I will say this NO Crayons to color. I read in one of my books I got when I first started making candles and I could not get a good burn.

[KTT]

Hi everybody! I said I'd come back and post when I got my round containers in (12oz status jars, approx 3" across), and did some testing. Yep, it seems the issue I was having was indeed due to the shape of the containers I started out with! I'm still testing all my wicks with these new ones, but thus far, I am getting full melt pools! Yay! I am so happy! Also, to all those that said to cure the candles for a few days to a week, thank you. That indeed makes a difference in scent throw!

Just wanted to let everyone know! Thanks again, everybody!

[carol k]

Just throwing this out. Air conditioning make it really hard to test candles for scent throw. I hate trying to test when the air is on.

[KTT]

Just throwing this out. Air conditioning make it really hard to test candles for scent throw. I hate trying to test when the air is on.

Actually, I know what you mean. Especially living here in Texas:) I closed off the vents in my work area even when I first started on this candle trail. For now, I just turn the air completely off for the time when I am testing for scent throw, but I'm going to have to figure out something else when this Texas heat really kicks in. I can't be turning off that air, then! lol.

[rjdaines]

Just throwing this out. Air conditioning make it really hard to test candles for scent throw. I hate trying to test when the air is on.

I feel your pain, AC and ceiling fans on here in AZ this time of year.