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Palm Container


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I decided to try some container wax after reading a ton on this board. THANKS for all the insight. Here are my results. I’m still not getting an even pattern. I rec'd a suggestion to heat the jars with a heating pad. I placed the heating pad on the surface and the jars on top and heated the surface the containers were going to cool on at the same time and I placed a box over them. The green one had a wrap on it but it didn't extend past the base. The red and blues containers had the wrap shown in the picture (its bubble wrap insulation). And for the last picture I have to brag on DH - he just made a set of these bedside tables for the spare bedroom.

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Edited by safetysue
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Here are my results. I’m still not getting an even pattern.

It looks like the pattern is not as defined toward the top. Is that what you mean when you say not getting an even pattern?

Is the side of the container uniformly thick from the base to the lip? I've found varying thicknesses will affect the pattern.

Does the insulating sleeve contact the glass or is there a gap in some places? That MAY be a problem, too. I'd try insulating all the way to the rim and then placing another piece of insulation over the opening. The exposed glass at the rim may be cooling quicker and transferring down making the pattern less distinctive at the top.

Oh, compliments to your DH - and the tables are very, very nice!

Edited by Judy, USMC
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What was the pour temp? What was the air temp of the room (not the thermostat setting)?

While I love the foiled bubble wrap jacket and the heating pad idea, you won't be making many candles at a time having to do all that!

Pouring into preheated containers (not too warm to hold comfortably), set on a cookie rack and (completely) covered with a box or placed in a styrofoam cooler will do quite well. The idea is for the candles to cool very slowly AND evenly. Insulating the sides and leaving the top open (the foil bubblewrap jacket) promotes uneven cooling. Setting directly on any surface can either insulate the bottom too much or cool it down too quickly. The air surrounding the candles should be free to circulate all around, over and under the candles for the best, most even crystal patterns.

I HOPE you stirred these as they were cooling to release the air pockets formed inside the cooling palm wax; otherwise you can expect to see some mighty unsettling flares as the melt pool drains into the air pockets as the candle burns down. This process has been nicknamed, "wrecking," but it refers to stirring the interior of the cooling candles at intervals to destroy the air pockets forming and allow the air accumulating in there to be released and not "trapped" in the structure of the candle. This air trapping is an issue with all palm wax and must be mitigated for even burning and safety.

I think these look very nice!! The pattern on the red is the most even. The blue looks like the top cooled a little faster; the green's bottom cooled faster.

Your husband is a very talented guy!! With you making such pretty candles and him making such lovely furniture, your home will always look lovely!! :D

Edited by Stella1952
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Great candles Sue! I love looking at palm candles. One day Id like to try my hand at it. And that mission end table your hubby did is absolutely beautiful. He has talent! His work is impeccable....I'd be a bragging too! Got any more pics to brag on? lol

Trappeur

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The candles look nice. It takes a little practice to get the crystal patterns to form nicely. I cool my palm containers on a rack in a warm room. When I make candles all day my candle room gets pretty warm so I don't need to cover my candles.

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Thanks for the compliments and the input. Here are the answers to the questions. Yes I'm referring to the pattern being even. I agree the top is cooling faster with the exception of the green one. That was my first one and the “jacket” stopped before the base. The pour temp was 190 degrees for all of them. I stayed with what CS recommended 185 – 195. The room temp was 68 degrees. I work in the basement and it pretty much stays at 68 degrees year round.

I did stir them once and that was it. One of them did have an air pocket right under the surface next to the wick that was about ¼” wide and ¼” deep. Other than that one I haven’t had any other air pocket issues. However I do understand that even one is unacceptable. I’m going to take Stella’s advice and cool the next batch in the oven. I had previously read and now re-read (bookmarked) the wrecking process. I was hoping to avoid it – I think I’m afraid of it.

And yes Stella our home would always look lovely if someone would just take care of it for me. I can find anything to keep me from cleaning. Thank goodness the kids come home to visit 3 or 4 times a year because it forces me clean the windows!

I’m very new to all of this and not selling to anyone but I’m having fun and learning tons. I really appreciate this board and those who contribute so freely.

Now I have some questions.

What is the cure time on this wax? I'm bad about waiting for soy to cure but again I'm only using these in our home.

Is it supposed to tunnel somewhat and then burn the sides down? That’s what all of mine have done. I find the CSN 9 wick does not clean the sides below the halfway mark when the candle is done and one left hang up even higher. The CSN 11 does a much better job but still doesn’t clean them entirely. Could some chime in here let me know if this normal for palm container way. I think the wicking up would be too hot for this container.

The CT is excellent but I’m not impressed with the HT. Maybe it’s the scents I chose. Fresh and Clean has had the best HT so far and it’s the only one with 5% FO.

Thanks Again,

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