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Best Soy wax for creamy containers


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I'm getting ready to order some 1lb samples from candlesandsupplies in PA. I noticed that they are close enough for me drive to and they carry quite a few soy container waxes.

My question is out of the following waxes which do you like to work with the best and what additives do you use with it if any.

EcoSoya CB-135

EcoSoya CB Pure Soy

EcoSoya CB - Advanced

Cargill C-1

Cargill C-3

GB415

GW444

I bought this soy candle where the texture is so smooth and creamy. That's what I'm looking to create myself.

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Personally I prefer the Cargill C1 to the Cargill C3. The C3 is inconsistent (Cargill is still tweaking it), it's greasy and harder to wick, and the scent throw is only slightly better if at all than the C1.

The C1 is comparable to EcoSoya CB135. Haven't tried the PureSoy or Advanced. But based on the description, I'd try the Advanced.

Don't care for the GB or GW.

Working with soy always ends up being individual preference. As you find something that works for you, you always learn to tweak it for best results.

Find something that is readily available, that has a good reputation for not changing too much from year to year, and that you can learn to pour with the least worry and effort.

Hope that helps!

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i have tried the eco soyas and gb415 and didnt like ecosoyas and did fine with gb415 but the trouble comes with the proper wicking to use which can change based on what scent and or dye you use, that is where alot of the testing and frustration comes in for me and i am still testing, i have been doing it for only 6 mths and learn something new each day and still have a way to go , you can buy 10 lb portions which may be a good way to test 3 or 4 different ones b4 buying large quantity..good luck and be patient

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Jacqui, they actually have a 5# each Natural Wax sampler (9 different waxes I think) - I'm thinking of getting it. But it doesn't include the Eco Soyas for some reason.

I've already discovered that if you are playing - 1# doesn't cut it (nor do those sill wick samples with only FIVE of each wick.)

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Hi,

I use C3, no additives. I use color blocks, which can be a bit of a challenge when it comes to frosting when using darker colors. Other than that, I do get creamy tops now. I pour at 150 or so... use a heat gun when necessary. Sometimes, the FO weaps and then I know to add less... But generally, this wax takes to FO's pretty well. And those FO's that don't, I don't use. It's expensive but best to start on 1 oz samplers for each FO you offer. I learned the hard way on some...

I started out w/the soy 125. Didn't know what it was at the time- bought it from a guy who sells candlewic products on Ebay. My tops were terrible with that wax, but I can't say much because I was such a newbie at the time and didn't know what I was doing. That was over a year ago. Ever since last October I've been using C3.

HTH.

Violet

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Just my personal experience- I have been using the EcoSoya CB Advanced for about 3 years now. It's the only wax I use for colors- beautiful, rich, and nice and creamy. But alot of people don't like it. (I get a great scent throw, when using the right fragrance oils.)

But I do agree, that you have to find what works for you.

HTH :D

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Well I've been working in overdrive today. I've test drived the following soy waxes with no additives:

C-1

C-3

EcoSoya 135

EcoSoya Pure Soy

EcoSoya Advanced

From just the pour C-3 was the winner. Other than just slight cracking around the wick - and I mean very slight - the tops are completely smooth and creamy. I wouldn't even have to heat gun these suckers.

Ecosoya Advanced came in a close second.I love the lush apperance of this wax. A little sinkage and nippling of the wicks. It seems to have a better cold throw than the C-3 but that could be because I may have added a little more FO.

In 3rd place I'd say the pure soy, then the 135 and c-1. The C-1 cracked the most.

My opinions may change after the test burns. Which I'll conduct on Monday, giving them some time to set up.

I love these status jar I got. Easy to test burn. I already started testing the 135 (I poured Thursday) and they burn down nice and even with both wicks I tried in them. I'm not so overly concerned with the wick situation until I narrow down the waxes. Also 1lb pours perfectly into two.

I didn't sample the 415 or 444. I'm kinda of regretting that but then again I'm out of containers.

I am concerned with some of the consistancy problems other members have had with the c-3. I'm wondering if Advanced users have had any problems with it's consistancy as well.

Cheers,

Jacqui

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C-3 is what I've been playing with. As I burn it TONS of tiny bubbles come up so I've been working to resolve that.

C-3 is 100% soybeans with only soy-derived additives

The Eco-Soya Advance is "made from pure 100% soybeans and carefully selected botanical oils" which means to me that they've more additives options for making it easier to work with!

I'll be trying the Advance soon.

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Okay I couldn't wait another day to burn these suckers.

EcoSoya Advanced hands down winner. I will playing A LOT more with this one in the very near future.

After the set up

Both the C-1 and C-3 pulled from the containers leaving wet spot on practically half the jars.

No wet spots what-so-ever on both the Ecosoya Advanced and Pure Soy containers. The 135 spotted a little.

1st Burn - 2 hours

The Advanced soy was the 1st to form full even meltpool with the first 30 minutes. Some of the others didn't even make it all the way in 2 hours. Also in the Advanced I tried a hemp wick and a Wick-it premier wick. Both these wicks mushroomed like crazy in the 135. Absolutely no mushrooming in the Advanced. That really impressed me. Need to see if that keeps up in the re-burns.

The C-3 had a lot of air pockets and bubbles surfaced.

Best scent throw was the C-1. Keep in mind none of these were cured properly and the c-1 had the only SOS FO that was in the ultra concentrate. Otherwise in the rest I used some free SOS samples. I'm not really concerned about the throws. I just wanted to test the consistancy of these waxes before purchasing in larger quantities.

Overall I found testing these 1lb samples extremely helpful with out feeling like I wasted money on a lot of left over wax I didn't particullary care for. Like with the Soy-125. Live and Learn.

Now on to the pillar wax!

Cheers,

J

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I have always used Cargill C-3 because I wanted a pure product that I could add things to myself. I make candles for LiveGreen in San Diego, so it needed to be "green", which is also why I use all cotton square braid wicking. I have never had trouble with it burning inconsistently. I use all cotton square braid wicking and get melt pools all the way across my candles. I add Universal Soy Additive from Just By Nature and I don't get frost, no mushroom, and great scent throw. All of my fragrances are from JBN also. They test their fragrances in soy, so I know it works, and haven't had any trouble. I use 1oz FO/ lb for all of them and color diamonds from Pourette. I just hit the tops with a heat gun because I'm a perfectionist. I do get pits, but I don't waste time measuring temperatures because I always hit them with the heat gun anyways! Good luck!

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The Advanced soy was the 1st to form full even meltpool with the first 30 minutes

A FULL meltpool in 30 minutes?!!!!! That sounds way overwicked to me unless your containers were like a half inch in diameter!

I have always used Cargill C-3 because I wanted a pure product that I could add things to myself. I make candles for LiveGreen in San Diego, so it needed to be "green"

You need to read up on your wax, LLM.:wink2: I use it too, but I am under NO illusions that it is "green." The soy oil is not expeller pressed, it is chemically extracted with hexane, a solvent. The soybeans from which the oil is extracted are not free of GMO soybeans nor are they organically grown. So green it's not, but I like it anyway.

If you really want to make "green" soy wax candles, below is a link to some folks in CO who claim to make organic non-GMO soy wax candles. Perhaps you could find out where to get the wax they are using. http://lumia.us/about.html

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A FULL meltpool in 30 minutes?!!!!! That sounds way overwicked to me unless your containers were like a half inch in diameter!

I don't discredit that. The wick thing is still a work in progress. The diameter is 3-1/8 inch. The melt pool so far has spread out that quickly all of the re-burns in the past few nights but the jars aren't overly hot. Last night was the first time I observed any mushrooming in my wicks.

What I have also observed is that with all the other waxes the wick burns down into the wax a little bit before it starts spreading out. With the CB-Adv the the wick pool sort of spreads out evenly to the side of the container. It's also softer when cool, I think it probably has a lower MP that the Cargills.

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Eco Soya CB Advanced is awesome wax and if you can get it without paying high shipping...all the better. I would love to use it, but have to work with what I can get locally and it isn't avail around here. To be cost effective, you really have to work with what you can get at a decent price including shipping charges...unless money is no object.

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I have more experience with Ecosoya CB Advanced. It will definitely give you the more vibrant colors and creamy smooth texture. Although the last 20 pounds I bought was more greasy than previous batches. Maybe it's the weather? I do live in Texas where fall is coming late this year.

I'm working with and testing C3 right now because it's cheaper. I'm having issues that I didn't have with CBA. It's lumpy, and it bubbles. I'm trying to resolve those issues - going to try CO and pouring hotter. The scent throw seems good though.

I will tell you one soy that I absolutely hate is EZSoy. I cannot stand that wax. It was really hard to work with and had way too many issues and I didn't have the patience to work them out.

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Jackie,

You may want to start over again. If you are testing for which wax you like, you need to keep all the other variables the same...same FO, same wicks,etc. Your conclusions can be wrong because different FOs have better throw than others, and each FO can need a diff size wick. As far as getting a full melt pool in 30 mins-that's entirely too quick. That wick was way too large. It should take approx 1 hour per inch of the diameter of your jar (not the opening, the actual width of the body of the jar).

A good way to start out would be to ask a supplier which FO throws well in soys..then use that same one and the same types wicks. Eliminate the waxes you don't like, and then begin trying different variables...try wicks next. you may like ECOs or CDs. After you have narrowed those down, then start trying diff FO's.

Now there are times when you may want to switch wicks with specific FO's , but just get the basics down first. If you gon't...you will be wasting lots of time and $! I have been testing for 10 months now and still don't have it all down, it is a very LONG process! I don't want to discourage you, just want you to be prepared and know what to expect. Take your time and have fun with this great hobby!

Best of luck!

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Okay so maybe I was exaggerating a little on the 30 minute thing. I did recently time the melt pool and the one wick (WI premier 795) took 45 minutes the hemp wick took just over an hour. I was not testing for wicks or FO, just wax. I’m about 2/3rds down now and still no soot and no mushrooming with the WI and a little in the hemp. I find this wax to be very wick friendly.

I certainly don’t think this has been a waste of time or money. In fact I think it has saved me money. I found my initial test pours with these 5 different soy waxes extremely valuable. I was able to find a soy wax I like from a supplier I can drive to. I really like the texture look and overall burn quality of the CB-Adv. I’m picking up a case this weekend to start some serious wick, FO and additive testing. I have no intention of starting over again.

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I guess you aren't really interested in what anyone is saying then, since it seems as though you have your mind made up. But, a full melt pool in anything less than 3 hours in a 3" is WAY over wicked. 45 minutes?? An hour?? I don't even care if my melt pool reaches the sides of the jar on the first burn. I don't want it to. I want it to get close... but catch up on the subsequent burns. Soy wax burns down, then out. If you have a full melt pool in that short amount of time, it's very, very overwicked.

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