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strange coloring on tops of container candles


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all the container candles I have poured with IGI4627 have strange coloring on the tops...but not through out..can anyone tell me what that could be and how I can fix it? or maybe I dont need to fix it? I used 2oz Lilac (from Lone Star) and 6 drops of dye (also from Lone Star)

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Hmm thats strange. I dont use liquid dye so not sure. Is it flat on top or bubbly? Kind of looks bubbly on top on one but could just be picture. Only that one color doing that? I would think that if it wasnt mixed good it would go to bottom and not top. Good luck. You could melt one down and try repouring to see if it does it again.

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It looks like you might have used to much fo for your wax. I've added to much fo before when I have candle nose. I weigh out my fo and then add a little extra:wink2: . Sometimes it is to much though and my fo seeps to the top of the container. I don't know if that's it or if it helps....but hope you figure it out.

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its not bubbly on the top its nice and smooth...It happens with almost all my container candles..

I have been test burning and I think they burn great...and my kids think the color on top looks cool...lol they think I did that on purpose..

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It is kinda hard to tell from the picture.

I've not used that wax, so I don't know if it's something inherient to it specifically.

As for making sure the FO is mixed thoroughly, I'd suggest adding the FO before the color. With the wax clear it's easier to see when the FO is thoroughly mixed. You'll see almost oily swirls as you stir. When it's mixed good, you wont be able to see it anymore.

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Fellow Nebraskan...I use 4627 as well. I noticed swirls, etc like that when I would do a re-pour (only out of habit). What I started doing is reheating my wax to the same temp as when I poured my first pour. Also, stiring for about 1 minute before pouring. It help out quite a bit!!!!

Try and let me know if that works....

Otherwise, do you put any additives in the wax?

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Fellow Nebraskan...I use 4627 as well. I noticed swirls, etc like that when I would do a re-pour (only out of habit). What I started doing is reheating my wax to the same temp as when I poured my first pour. Also, stiring for about 1 minute before pouring. It help out quite a bit!!!!

Try and let me know if that works....

Otherwise, do you put any additives in the wax?

Thanks for the tip...I will try that..do you use 1oz of FO per pound of wax? I love the scent throw on this..Im new to all this but wow...smells great.

what part of NE ya from??:cheesy2:

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I use 4627 and when I pour into non-heated containers, the candles get that strange pattern on them (and I don't do 2nd pours). I don't think it has anything to do with mixing the FO. Also, I heat my wax to about 185, add color and FO and then pour between 180-185. I don't get that pattern if I heat my jars, but I am too lazy to do that anymore. HTH

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I use 4627 and when I pour into non-heated containers, the candles get that strange pattern on them (and I don't do 2nd pours). I don't think it has anything to do with mixing the FO. Also, I heat my wax to about 185, add color and FO and then pour between 180-185. I don't get that pattern if I heat my jars, but I am too lazy to do that anymore. HTH

May I ask what jars you use and wick?? I am using an 8oz wide mouth mason jar...and Im testing HTP93 and HTP105. but so far with a 3 hour burn the HTP93 there is still about 1/4 inch wax not burnt to the edge.

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I use the 8 oz square mason jar. The HTP 93 works well and cleans up the sides. The HTP 83 leaves quite a bit of hangup until the last few burns. The LX 16 also leaves hangup and soots with most of my FOs. So far, the HTP 83 or 93 (depending on FO) is my choice, since it leaves the least amount of soot and burns the slowest in this wax. I have also found that this wax may take longer to get a FMP. I don't always get a FMP in the requisite 3 hours, but maybe closer to 4. Since customers always burn candles longer anyway, this doesn't really bother me. Wicking up also doesn't help - just creates more soot.

Last week, I tested 4 jars, poured from the same batch, with LX, HTP, zinc and low smoke zinc wicks. The zincs burned the fastest and left the most soot (yes, I trimmed the wicks before each burn). The LX left some soot and was in the middle as far as burn rate. The HTP burned the slowest and had the least amount of soot - very tolerable for a parrafin wax. I haven't tested any other jars and am probably going to stop using this wax because I have had so much trouble wicking it. When I used j50, almost every FO could be wicked with a 51z in my square mason and, when the wicks are trimmed, there is no soot and no wax left on the sides of the jar. The 4627 just isn't performing as well as I want, although the throw is awesome. Hope this helps a little.

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My 8 oz square masons are not a wide-mouth jar though, so you may need a larger wick.

I am picking up some J50 and J223 this weekend. I know J50 works for me, but since so many people have raved about J223, I think I might as well see what all the fuss is about. I will also try mixing those two just to see how it goes. I am only selling wickless candles right now, but I need to settle on a wax soon and get my regular candles ready (ie, tested) in time for Christmas. That's why I'm leaning towards J50. J50 is a one-pour wax as well. It makes a pretty candle, but I always get wetspots. I honestly don't care anymore though because no one else notices them but me. I think it would be a great wax for you to try, if you give up on the 4627. It is also way less messy then the 4627. It comes in soft slabs that you cut with a knife. No scooping required. :D

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thanks so much for the info. I think when this is gone I will try the J50.

you say its soft and you can cut it with a knife?

those hard slabs of wax kill my hands..my husband told me to buy a hot knife...Lone Start has them for $40

but I dont want to spend the money.

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