mindy5140 Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I'm testing 2 new types of wax and this is one of them.I have a few questions.1) Is it a repour wax, like is it normal to have sink holes around the wick2) I have read that some rarely get wet spots with this wax, but I have I'm using the 8 oz smooth jj. I have poured hot, warm, and slushy. I have even warmed up the jars. And I still get major wet spots. Is this something I should just get used to if I choose this wax.3) How long does this type of wax need to cure before testing it.TIA,Mindy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luci Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I frequently get sink holes around the wick, but correct them with a heat gun. I do not repour. I also use the heat gun for the wet spots, but I quit with the smooth-sided jj, so I don't worry about the wet spots anymore. I usually test burn for wicking after 24 hrs. I am pleasantly surprised when I also get a good scent throw in that little time.I used 6006 for a small pink ribbon fundraiser recently in the 8 oz tureens. I only did one scent--pink sugar. Wet spots were not a problem. I did not warm the jars and poured at @ 110. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wicked1 Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I always get sink holes in some of my candles. I have tried every trick and suggestion on here. There have been a couple posts about this issue. I have different experiences with different shaped jars. I also just zap with the heat gun. I don't usually have much trouble with wet spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jillgunter Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I pour that wax at 170, altho I do tins so dont know about wet spots. I have heard in large jars that you need a repour. I would think in 8 oz jars you shouldnt. Let them cool really slow, that will help. I never need a repour on my 8 oz tins, so try pouring at 170 and see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luci Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I am so sorry! I posted that above without my notes. I confused 6006 with cba (duh). I pour 6006 around 155. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayMaire Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I get wet spots and sink holes, and sometimes I get big holes under the surface around the wick. I notice these things way more when my shop is cold - it's a separate building and I have to keep the heat turned down very low unless I'm actually in there working. It helps if I put a cardboard box over them after pouring. I've also been pouring hotter (thanks to a tip I read here), at 180 or so. It seems to give me smoother tops.I smooth things out with a heat gun too, but I'm having trouble keeping the wick looking nice when I do that. I can't seem to keep the heat off it, and it singes it a bit. I tried covering the wick, but it didn't seem to help. I test burn 24-48 hours after pouring, and the throw is usually pretty good even that soon. It improves with aging too. Lori Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mindy5140 Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 Thanks, I guess I'm going to have to zap it with my heat gun and switch containers.These aren't big things, because I make almost 100% soy candles and I have to leave my candles cure for 2 weeks to get an awesome hot throw.I've noticed that the FO's that threw ok in my soy throw great in this wax. I couldn't help myself, I let Honeydew melon cure for 24 hours and the hot throw is awesome.Thanks again,Mindy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredron Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 The problem with the 6006 sink holes is in the cooling, I've found. I finally built a "cooling box" out of styrofoam inculation board used for insulating houses. You can buy a 4' x 8' piece of 1/2" thick for $8.50 at Home Depot. Get some liquid nails glue & some duct tape also. Cut the board with a razor knife & glue & tape a box to your needs. I ended up with two out of one sheet. When you pour, set your candles in the box & put the lid on. When you pour more than one jar, let them touch each other as they cool. My boxes slow cool the candles for about 12 hours, and the sink holes do not appear. I never really had the wet spots, so I don't know if this will solve that problem.I also eliminated some problems with Joy Wax using my boxes and really like the Joy wax better. Fredron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayMaire Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Thanks Fredron! I have some scraps of this lying around here and was thinking it just might work - good to know it actually does for you. I'm going to give it a try! Lori Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jillgunter Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 THe hot throw gets even better after a few days, it needs a little cure time since it has some soy in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickedwanda Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I poured about 20 jars,different types, different wicks,yesterday using 6006, only 2 had the sink holes, the other ones had like a raised area around the wick. my kitchen was warm(temp outside was like 70)i had windows open:yay: , i just used heat gun to fill in the sink holes, and smooth out the raised area around wick.i did lower my pour temp from 185 to 170, that does seem to help. i heat jars, and have a big baking sheet (for like commerical ovens, it wont fit in regular oven) that i place over the top of stove(it covers entire top) i have oven on low to heat jars and the heat from oven comes up to top and keeps jars/wax warm for slow cooling. after awhile i move to other location and group closely. wet spots i do get, i use the heat gun again for that, and I TRY to let cure for a week, but dont often make that.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredron Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Forgot to mention one thing about the insulation board boxes. They have very little strength, so they must sit flat on a table. You can't let part of the box overhang the edge, or try to span an opening. But they really work!!Fredron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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