fredron

If you can't get through to Mike by phone because of the employee roadblock, write a letter describing your displeasure, and on the envelope, make it to his attention. If it was my company, I'd want you to raise hell until you got me, then I'd deal with the problem child. By the way, if you spent $25,000 a year with me, you could move in. Fredron

Not to throw water on your enterprise, but if you've only made 6 candles, you are not ready to sell them. You have some serious testing to do first. However, $5.00 manufacturing cost for a 16 oz candle is high. Buying jars, wicks and wax in bulk, ordering fragrance oil in large quantities, and printing my own labels and disclaimer labels, I have my 16oz candle cost at $2.67. You will not be able to match that until you're producing in quantity. Fredron

These are known as wet spots, and we all have had issues with them from time to time. My solutions have changed through the years. For a long time I poured hot, about 180 degrees, into a heated jar, and slow cooled in cooling boxes I made. However, the J-50, which I use as my base wax in my blend has changed, and the old method doesn't work any longer. Now I heat the wax to 195 degrees, add my scent, color, and additives, then wait until the temperature is 140 degrees, and pour into a warm jar, and don't worry about the slow cool. I get a wet spot once in a while, but not often. My suggestion is to experiment with pour temperatures. A warm wax will not shrink as much when cooling as a hot wax, so the chance for wet spots is reduced. The IGI recommended pour temp for my J-50 is listed as 175-180 degrees, but at that temp, the results were ugly. My point is, find what works best for you, even if it flies in the face of what is recommended. Fredron

That was my discovery also with my blend using IGI's new J-50 (4636). Like you, I tried IGI's recommendations of pouring between 175 & 190, but still had a white crusty appearance to the side of the candle, caused, I believe, by shrinkage. I still pour into a slightly warmed jar, but now pour at 140 degrees, and the candles look great. Fredron

Everything I've bought from them has been good. I buy their very cherry, patchouli, and a half dozen others, the names of which escape me at the moment, and I've never been disappointed. Service is excellent, also. I buy the manufacturer's grade. Fredron

While we're talking about labels, don't ever make a mistake when ordering from Labels by the Sheet. I had ordered 100 of each of 2 different sizes, and got the color wrong. When I asked about a return, I was told they could not be returned if the package was opened. I asked how I would know if they were the wrong color if I didn't open the package, but they would not accept them, even if I paid a restocking charge. So I now buy from Online labels. They're less expensive too. Fredron

Just poured a dozen more 22 oz & 16 oz containers last night, and they look good. So, the 140 pour temp is now the standard. Fredron

For several years, I've used J-50 as a base for my paraffin/soy blend, and since IGI bought out Astor, I've been having trouble making it work. The surface was lousy, and as the candle set up, it pulled away from the jar wall, causing what looked like crusty white swirls. Usually a heat gun would fix the white patches, but nothing I tried stopped the problem from occurring. I tried pouring at various temperatures, (IGI's instructions said 170 -195 degrees) and tried modifying my formula, but nothing worked. IGI provided no help. Their attitude was their wax met their specifications, and if I was unhappy, buy from someone else. The response from the CMS was the same, and I was in the process of finding another wax, but had 500 pounds of the J-50 which had to be used. This weekend, I tried pouring at temperature just above the congealing point, and it seems to have worked. Everything I poured this weekend was fine. So my new pour temp is 140 degrees. Fredron

We tried the tags & ribbons, but abandoned them after a few years. The tags were pulled off with the lids about half the time, and were a real pain. Even after I developed a slip knot which made them tighter on the jars, they were a pain. We now use a round tan colored label which looks pretty sharp with almost every color, and decided to keep the ribbons just for color, and to help identify fragrances from a distance. However, the proprietor of a craft store where we display our candles told us she didn't want the ribbons, so now I'm rethinking them. It's one less cost, and one less step in the process. Fredron

I have made a couple cooling boxes from styrofoam insulation board used in home building. You can buy a 4' x 8' sheet for about $10.00. Cut it using a razor knife, and glue together using liquid nails & duct tape. Mine are 24" x 24" x 7" deep, with lids. In the beginning, I tried to make the box deep enough to have 2 layers, but soon settled on 2 boxes 1 layer deep. I pour the candles & place in the box in the evening, and in the morning, they are set up, but still warm to the touch. The boxes, while fairly strong, must sit on a flat surface. They can't overhang the table. Fredron

When you fill the holes, do not pour higher than the original pour-just fill the holes. Fredron

I've run into the same results on 4636 (the old J-50). Poor performance, ugly tops, and heavy shrinkage when setting up. I was in touch with IGI, with absolutely no satisfaction, then with CMS, and again no satisfaction. IGI says the wax has never changed, but I've used it for years with perfect results until IGI started making it. I've actually cut into hollow places in slabs where water ran out. Fredron

I do a lot of craft shows, and make it a point to talk to anyone who makes candles, soy or paraffin. Most of us burn a sample at shows, to demonstrate how our product burns. I've seen candles of both types (and blends) smoking like chimneys. The "clean burning" soy candle is a myth. As is the "smokey paraffin" candle. If properly made, both will burn clean, and if improperly made, both will smoke. I use my own blend, and light the candle in the morning at shows, and let it burn. If I remember, I'll trim the wick once a day, but most days it never gets trimmed, and my candles don't smoke. I use a soy blend mainly to sell to the people who believe soy is better, but my main ingredient is paraffin because it's easier to work with and has better scent throw, hot or cold. Fredron

I tried their wax some time back. It was their basic container wax, and it was pretty good. I was about to try more, and start doing detailed testing, but about that time, I hit on my blend, and stopped. However, I may get back into the testing again, since IGI has changed their J-50 into a wax I can't use any longer. Anything you get from Robert at TC will be good though, and their customer service is excellent. Fredron

I work in the basement, and the computer is on the other side of a dividing wall, but in the same room. I keep a jar warmer there also. Fredron