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Do I need to worry?????


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My second batch is in "bed"... but..

it's not as warm as my first batch.. the bottom of the pan is warmish.. kinda!!

I took a quick peek, and it looks fine.. to me anyways, but I'm not seeing the darker colour that I had the first time!!

It also took me an hour to get this to trace this also, as I changed one of my oils... but it did trace!!

Do I leave it, and wait and see what happens, or am I screwed cause it's not warm enough???? I have a huge blanket on it!

And this time my colours are just what I wanted too.... a white soap with pink swirls!!!

Please advise...

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It does not need to gel or be insulated to turn into soap.

We all have different preferences on this subject. I am a non-gel, non-insulate soapmaker. I prefer it when it does not.

If you know your lye/water was incorporated with your oils and you poured at trace then I am sure that it will be soap.

Let us know how it turns out.


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Once again... thank you soooooo much for your answers and support!! :highfive:

And that link is fantastic!! It is now in my favorites soaping folder!!!

Thank you!!

Once I get a few batches behind me, I should stop pestering everyone with my stupid questions and petty concerns!!

It's just soooooooooo nerve racking when you don't know what's going on!!

It has warmed a bit, but I never saw any gelling when I peeked quickly, but it does look alright! At least there is no cracking this time.. so far!!

So I'll keep my fingers crossed!!

Thanks again!! :)

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Sometimes gel just takes longer to achieve, especially in cold weather. You can try to encourage the chemical reaction/heat to speed up with insulation, but it doesn't always work. Sometimes it works TOO well and you end up with a batch that overheats in the mold.

Remember AJ's Rule of Soaping: We soapers only like to THINK we are in control of the soap, but in reality, it has a mind of its own. ;)

Whether or not the batch gels? No worries. Either way you'll have soap, but ungelled will be a bit softer/stickier at first. It'll all even out in the wash!

Now a partial gel ... ugh. That's an ugly story for another chapter. LOL

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It's cut!! :yay: And other than the fact that it is a tad stickier than my first batch, it actually looks ok!!

My colors are what I wanted this time anyways. My goof this time?? My ultramarine wasn't quite mixed up enough, so I have tiny speckle here and there, but even that's not too too bad!! My supplier's instructions said to just mix it in some some for the swirl.... nope... don't work!! I'll mix it with oil or water next time!!

It turned out an off white, with a pink marble.. (I can't say swirl this time) :laugh2:

I'll let it dry a bit, and post a pic later on!

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Once you get a stick blender you will be able to mix the color better. The best thing to do is after you mix the lye in with your oils, then remove a small amount of oils to mix the color with. Oxides and Ultramarines are oil dispersible and will not disperse in water.

This will ensure you are not putting extra oil in there that you don’t have enough lye for. Because that would make your superfatting percentage higher and your soap softer.

If you have liquid glycerin to premix the color in, then that is okay since glycerin is basically oil that has already been saponified (liquid soap).

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Actually I've gotten some powdered colorants that the mfr. says to use water. Others say to use oil. I just use a dab of glycerin for all of them, and both the water and the oil dispersed kinds do great in glycerin. I use it for other powdery-dry stuff too, such as clays. Works like a charm. ;)

I used to write a large "W" on the lid of my containers of UM's, TD, etc. if the seller said it was to be put into water, and a large "O" on the lid for the kind that go in oil. But now I just use glycerin for both and eliminate the guess work. LOL

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