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I use a para-soy votive wax and I don't repour. Sorry, but I don't know what you mean about "thin top edges". I don't pour to the very top ... I usually stop just a little short.

Thank you...I've been trying that as well....by thin top edges I mean if I don't repour, the part that flares out is a very thin edge, compared to a repour that gives a nice thick top. Did that make better sense? wasn't sure how to word it....

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Hello Chris:

I always top off my votives. I pour up to where the votive mold starts to curve out; let it set up till you see cracking around the wick pin (cool/warm) , and then when topping it off, I pour until some of the votive wax spills over the side of the votive mold. I always have a nice looking votive when done this way. I pour my votives on a large aluminum tray, so I can scrap up the spilled over votive wax; remelt it, and pour into a tart mold. I usually end up with 1 - 2 tarts per 12 votive batch. I then sell the tarts, which is 100% profit, since the votive wax has already been paid for by the person buying the votives. HTH

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Hello Chris:

I always top off my votives. I pour up to where the votive mold starts to curve out; let it set up till you see cracking around the wick pin (cool/warm) , and then when topping it off, I pour until some of the votive wax spills over the side of the votive mold. I always have a nice looking votive when done this way. I pour my votives on a large aluminum tray, so I can scrap up the spilled over votive wax; remelt it, and pour into a tart mold. I usually end up with 1 - 2 tarts per 12 votive batch. I then sell the tarts, which is 100% profit, since the votive wax has already been paid for by the person buying the votives. HTH

Thanks realmarcha! out of all the votives I poured today I do like the topped off better. I must be lucky because my votives do not crack around the wick pin...and they don't sink much at all.

thanks again!

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Thanks realmarcha! out of all the votives I poured today I do like the topped off better. I must be lucky because my votives do not crack around the wick pin...and they don't sink much at all.

thanks again!

Yes that could be luck. If the weather temp. changes or the humidity then you may have problems. I know I have to pour differently from summer temps verses winter temps.

Good luck and let us know if you see a difference.

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Yes that could be luck. If the weather temp. changes or the humidity then you may have problems. I know I have to pour differently from summer temps verses winter temps.

Good luck and let us know if you see a difference.

Hey Candleman...I pour EL at 170 and put a plastic bin over the top and then a towel over that...keeps it between 75-82 inside...cools it slowly. If I pour anywhere from 130-170 and don't slow the cool, they sink and crack like nobody's business. I'm hoping that I can fool the weather by using the plastic bin trick.

I'll post some later....working on the wicking now...I at least know that a cd5 is waaayyyyy too small!

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Try a CD-10.

Hey there....I'm on a CD 8 right now....it's almost burning good....not quite a full melt pool, but the glass is really hot, especially where the wick is bending....almost afraid that the cd10 will be way too hot. I know they say that you should be able to cup your hands around the glass without burning them, however I've never been able to wick a votive or a jar to my content without the jar being hot. My 8oz JJ right now has a CD14 testing in it....waiting to see how hot that puppy gets.

Does your glass get really hot with the CD10?

Thanks again

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