barbaranj Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Hi all,I finally bought some 1343 and would welcome some advice to guide me in creating the mottling effect. I remember someone posting that no additives are needed with the 1343, but the label Peaks put on the wax was to add stearic and fragrance oil. Maybe both ways will work? I would just like a direction to go in as I attempted rustics ALL WEEKEND LONG with not so great results and need to switch to something else like mottling before I attempt the rustic again. TIA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanaE Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 You don't have to have the stearic to get a mottled candle with that wax, but at the same time, adding stearic won't change the mottling effect at all. I use 2-3 tablespoons of stearic acid per lb of wax. It helps a little with the seepage problem that these types of waxes tend to have.So to answer the question short and sweet? No, stearic is not necessary to make a mottled candle with 1343.DanaE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbaranj Posted July 18, 2005 Author Share Posted July 18, 2005 Thanks for clearing that up for me Dana! Off to the kitchen I go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glowlite Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Yep stearic isn't nessesary but you do need FO or mineral oil. And don't forget to let it cool very very slowly. I put mine inside a box and wrap towels around the molds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 One thing the steric does do in mottles is helps cut back on the sweating. I've had it work for me at 2 tsp pp to 3 T pp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Barbara, pour hot (180) cool slowly. If you don't add stearic, the candle will be "greasy" when you take it out of the mold. Just wipe it with paper towels and it will stop after a few days.Keep in mind that the retention rate for straight 1343 is low-3%. That's why you'll see so much sweating. 1 ounce FO per lb. is approximately 6%. e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Barbara, pour hot (180) cool slowly. If you don't add stearic, the candle will be "greasy" when you take it out of the mold. Just wipe it with paper towels and it will stop after a few days.Keep in mind that the retention rate for straight 1343 is low-3%. That's why you'll see so much sweating. 1 ounce FO per lb. is approximately 6%. eDoes the 3T stearic pp increase the FO load to 6%? No idea why the stearic has always confused me so badly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunny Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 You mentioned you were having problems with your rustics too.. What have you been doing? I add 3T ppwax stearic and pour just as the wax has started to skim over in the pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donita Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 I am not an expert on motteling, but have found over the years that a little steric helps with the sweating oils....also improves the wax and I use Vybar 343 to help bind the oils too....I don't have any sweating now. This vybar is especially made for motteling. I just use 2 oz. to 10 lbs of wax. Good luck and post a picture when you get a pretty candle. Donita Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbaranj Posted July 18, 2005 Author Share Posted July 18, 2005 Thank you all so much...I will be sure to post a picture (eventually!). And Bunny....to explain my rustic problems...I used one lb 1343, 3 TBL stearic and 1 oz scent (cinnamon vanilla). I coated my aluminum mold with cooking spray (didn't have real mold release spray) and poured between 140 and 150. The wax hadn't skimmed over at all at that temp. Seems that the rustic layer stuck to the sides of the mold more than to the candle. I tried pouring even cooler, tried chilling the mold a bit....but I never got the entire rustic effect left on the candle. This last time I actually poured the wax around the sides of the mold before filling up the mold with the wax. That seemed to help some...I only had about 1/3 of the rustic stay on the mold. Just can't seem to come close to all the beautiful ones that you all posted in the old gallery. ARRRGGGGHHHH! Thanks for you input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alohagirl Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Rustics are strange in that they turn out different for everyone. We can all follow the same instructions with the same ingredients, and some of us will get heavy frost, some just a little and some none at all. (And some of us get a frosty surface that's smooth and shiny--cool looking, but not actually "rustic".) Go figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Does the 3T stearic pp increase the FO load to 6%? No idea why the stearic has always confused me so badly Can't say 6% for sure but there's a whole lot less leaking out! I also like the vybar 343 that Donita likes at 2% of wax weight. More than that will kill the mottle.e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallbabydoll Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I coated my aluminum mold with cooking spray (didn't have real mold release spray) and poured between 140 and 150. The wax hadn't skimmed over at all at that temp. Seems that the rustic layer stuck to the sides of the mold more than to the candle. I was having this same problem. So I tried not spraying the mold, and that did the trick, the "frosting" stuck to the candle instead of the inside of my mold. I also found not to use a water bath, or place in the fridge/freezer. I tried all of these things to get a rustic, and only when I did none of them did it actually work. I keeped remelting the same wax over and over so I knew these things were mistakes, not my formula, and I always poured right around 145. With a chilled mold I seemed to get more jumplines than in a room temp mold. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbaranj Posted July 19, 2005 Author Share Posted July 19, 2005 Thank you all..... all of the input on this thread has been wonderful....and helpful to many others I am sure. I will post a picture when I get a good result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malaki Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 i just trow in the FO and let the wax do the work nothing else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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