Jump to content

Starting from scratch


Recommended Posts

Finally decided its time to just experiment making my own proprietary blend that isn't made by combining pre blended waxes so I purchased some IGI 2281 for my base. I poured first tester with nothing but a drop of color to see if it mottled like its supposed to, but no mottling so far. I poured a second tester with  1% Vybar 343  and added some fragrance and an HTP 83 as my start wick ( oh my god don't every buy pineapple shortcake from natures garden. Vomit my whole house stinks).   All I can say is WOW!!!!! Candle looks like complete crap but Etsy worthy ahaha. Its got super wet spots, not those regular ones :D but such a strong scent throw with  absolutely ZERO mushroom. Such a clean burning candle.  So now I understand how additives that help candles also cause the wicking nightmares. Gonna try adding some mineral spirits and also try out some Crisco on next testers to compare. 

Was going to order some Coconut wax either Coconut 1 or Coconut 2  to blend with it.  Never used either, so recommendations on the which Coconut wax would be appreciated. Advice needed on which additives I should be using and which I should not be using. I also will probably add some Soy to it as well, was thinking maybe a IGI 415. My goal is to make my own Coconut, and Paraffin wax that I don't have to guess what is in it.

 

 

Edited by CaptnKush
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If wet spots are a problem, petrolatum might be of use. Mineral oil can help with mottling and softening. There's an archived thread that discusses the use of Crisco and Vybar in 2281 somewhere around here... Found it.

Coconut-1 is supposedly 100% hydrogenated coconut oil, whereas Coconut-2 contains 2% hydrogenated soy. S-113, S-130, and S-155 are base/naked soys, AFAIK.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Liking this wax so far as far as wicking goes. Everything I try works great. Blue one has 3 tbs per pound mineral oil with an lx 20 no FO and the yellow one has no mineral oil with an htp 83 and 6% fo. The wet spots are way beyond acceptable. Looks like wax shrunk 1/4”. Both have vybar 343. Hot throw is better than my 4627. Gonna enjoy experimenting with this. 

9D69B566-C3CF-47EF-B61F-E7201D0BE2E5.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sometimes it's better to wipe the slate clean and start fresh.  Looks like you are resolving at least some of your issues.  Those "wet spots" may have been trapped air as I can see what looks likes a few bubbles in that yellow candle and the biggest one looks like an air pocket.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The blue candle looks good. That pattern resembles frost or slushy water - I like it. Nice, bright flame.

The gelatinous, translucent appearance of the yellow looks a lot like a co92-stearic-cetearyl blend I was tinkering with. With more adjusting and maybe an additive (Crisco?), I think that one has potential to become a good non-mottled candle with a sloping melt pool.

Flames look good and stable.

As far as the wet spots, maybe Crisco or petrolatum/petroleum jelly? I've read that 6-8% mineral oil combined with FO will help adhesion, although it wasn't clear what ratio of oil to FO to use. Too much mineral oil and/or petrolatum can cause sooting; petrolatum in particular, since it's less refined and more oily.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

when adding oils, fragrance seepage may become an issue. 

 

fun project.  Only lesson learned from this side is make sure the wax product works throughout all seasons.  One I LOVED over the winter was an utter fail come hot, humid weather.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do want to get some petrolatum and try to see if I can make a 4627 type, but my main goal was to try and get the look of Yankee candles. I always liked the mottle look they had. I don't think I have a lot of options for additives if I want to keep the Mottling look. The blue one didn't get much mottling by itself even though it is supposed to, I added 3 tbs Mineral Oil per pound ratio to get the Mottling.  So far comparing it to Yankee Id say they don't really use additives other than mineral oil which accounts for the liquid Paraffin that TallTayl  saw on Hows it Made along with  solid slabs of 2281, who really knows right? The scent throw really is out of this world right now, just gotta work on my pour temps. The ones in the pictures I didn't prep the jars at all, just grabbed them off the shelf and poured, got excited to try it which is probably why I got such bad wet spots and my house temp was about 70 degrees. Only more testing will tell. 

I am hoping that the Vybar 343 fixes any seepage problems, we shall see, I have never used it before.

I have already poured one with Crisco, and it definitely removes the Mottling effect and gives it the typical smooth paraffin candle look.  I haven't tried scent yet or wicking with that one.

 

Now my Coconut blend is gonna be the tuff one. I am open to suggestions. I like the Lab & co Virgin Coco/Soy but I still feel it can be greatly improved. Price is way too high for me unless they keep the free shipping option forever :D

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know how to get consistent mottling in containers? I have not been able to duplicate the blue one I just did in the pic above with any other color. I must have gotten lucky on that one. I have tried everything from  pouring, hot, cold, slow cooling, no additives to adding mineral oil, heated jars, and room temp jars.

Do the type of jars affect mottling? Was wondering because I even tried my regular pillar mottling wax that mottles perfect every single time in a mold, but not in this glass jar.

This wax is the 2281 which states on one website that it is used to make mottling container candles and is a scale base wax, but then I saw Igi has another wax 1286 for mottling containers. Did I buy the wrong wax?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

  I was messing with this 2281 and added a little to 4627. It made the wax harder than what 4627 is, even with just a little amount. Is there any benefit to making the wax harder even though both waxes are almost the same melting point for a container candle?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...