Tips for layered candles

[Greywicklane]

Does anyone have any tips for doing layered candles? I am trying to do white candles with a thin black layer on top and I can’t seem to pour the top layer without shrinking and wet spots forming below it. 

[Jcandleattic]

How long are you waiting between pours? 

Don't worry about wet spots, but if you wait too long, then the bottom layer could shrink, and cause the new layer to go between the glass and wax (assuming you are making containers since you said wet spots) 

 

When I'm doing layers (I only use a paraffin, so my containers are a container paraffin blend) I wait until the layer I poured first has a nice thick skin on it, but liquidy underneath, so still warm, then the new layer will be about 5-10 degrees hotter than the original pouring temp, I poke relief holes if needed, then pour my layer. Let the candle set as usual. 

 

It would help if we knew what kind of wax, pouring temps, etc. to better give you some advice. 

[Greywicklane]

Thank you for the info! I am using GW 464 soy in 9oz glass jars. I was waiting until the first layer was basically hardened, a few hours. Pouring around 130 for both layers. 

[Jcandleattic]

I wouldn't wait quite so long, and maybe pour at about 135 for the second layer. I don't work with soy though, so hopefully some who does and makes layers can come along and be of more help. 

[birdcharm]

With the wet spots, those can happen at any time as far as I can tell.  So much of it has to do with temperatures in the room or of the glass, etc. that fluctuate and are beyond our control, that it's hard to predict when and where they are going to occur. 

 

I use the same wax and sometimes there are no air pockets and I don't need to do a repour (top layer), while other times I do need to, and poking a relief hole is sometimes necessary.  I often do this the following morning after pouring in the evening if the candle requires it.  This same color wax for the top layer cosmetically and physically pulls it all together. 

 

It seems that some of @Greywicklane's candles may be candidates for a repour and are not coming out to be one-pour candles, such as some of mine do whenever they feel like it. 

 

If this is the case, I would say to leave room for two additional layers -- one of them being your repour layer (a relief hole may help here before pouring) and then the other one being your colored layer.  Allow your candle to cool and if it needs a repour after setting up, go ahead and do that (same color as candle) and as soon as the repour layer hardens, pour your colored layer.  In other words, the colored layer should not be the remedy repour layer, it should an extra, decorative layer.

 

 

[wthomas57]

I approach this a bitter different than Jcanleattic I think.

 

I used to do the other layer when there was a skin but not fully hardened. Caused too much bleeding of the other wax/color/scent, etc. And it was more of a blended line, where I like a little more distinction on my layers.

 

Obviously, it depends on the wax your using, pour temps, etc..

But what I generally do now is this: (assuming 2 layers for this example)

 

1) First pour - let set and harden

2) top off/repour the first layer if needed

3) Do second pour (this pour needs to be hotter because it will cool quicker which means may cause sinkhole and require another pour

4) If you DO need to fix or repour second layer, do it after first one is basically set. 

 

Personally, I try NOT to repour/2nd pour the top layer. Instead I cover them to cool as slowly as possible and then hit with heat gun if needed to fix tops.

All in all, I have much better luck doing additional layers after lower layer is hard though. Better layer lines and way less sinkage issues on additional layers.

 

 

[Flicker]

I do this different than any of you from what I can tell.

 

When making soy and doing layers, I pour at the congealing point of the wax. Basically as soon as it's poured, it's almost set. I wait about 1/2 hour so its solid but warm and then do my repour the same way, at the congealing point and it sets up right away, leaving a nice smooth, flat top. For 415 the congealing point is about 97*, but I go by look. At the point where the wax is starting to form crystals on the top (about 110*,) I start swirling it around in the pot until it becomes the consistency of an ICEE starting to warm up and then pour into room temp jars.

 

I can't say I don't get wet spots, they happen, but I can tell you my layered soy look perfect every time!

[Jcandleattic]

I'm so glad y'all came by to help. As I said, I don't work with soy so figured it would be a different process than how I do my layered containers. I don't really like layering my containers much, I'd much rather layer a pillar. So much easier IMO. 

[wthomas57]

14 minutes ago, Flicker said:

I do this different than any of you from what I can tell.

 

When making soy and doing layers, I pour at the congealing point of the wax. Basically as soon as it's poured, it's almost set. I wait about 1/2 hour so its solid but warm and then do my repour the same way, at the congealing point and it sets up right away, leaving a nice smooth, flat top. For 415 the congealing point is about 97*, but I go by look. At the point where the wax is starting to form crystals on the top (about 110*,) I start swirling it around in the pot until it becomes the consistency of an ICEE starting to warm up and then pour into room temp jars.

 

I can't say I don't get wet spots, they happen, but I can tell you my layered soy look perfect every time!

 

This is good advice. Like I said, I do NOT use 464 as I do not like it. So my general suggestions was not for 464