ellajoan Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 Test with 464, no FO, and the 8 oz straight sided (flint) jar. Here are photos after the first 3 hour burn using CD 12, CD14, and HTP73 from L to R, respectively. I think the CD 12 is overwicked, but the CD 14 doesn't look quite as much so (????). Both CDs had a full melt pool. HTP 73 didn't get a full melt pool, but awfully close. Could only get one pic to load, and it's not the greatest. How deep should the melt pool be after the first burn? Does anyone have a good wick suggestions for this jar and wax? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 The CD 12 and CD14 are both over wicked in my opinion. I would go to a CD eight or 10 on those to start. That big of a melt pool this early in the candle and you will definitely have trouble halfway down and further. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 I like the flame on the HTP the best and honestly I never expect a full melt pool on the first burn unless I do a 6-8 hour power burn. Weird that the 14 is not performing as well as the 12, are you sure they aren't mixed up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 I have been testing cd's extensively in soy (tests have been posted for c3). All cd 14 from various retailers (and cdn and csn) generate smaller melt pools than cd12. The cd 14 seems to consume more of the wax as it burns, though. All of my sample candles in the tests have slightly deeper but narrower consumed cooled wax in the containers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellajoan Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 1 hour ago, TallTayl said: The CD 12 and CD14 are both over wicked in my opinion. I would go to a CD eight or 10 on those to start. That big of a melt pool this early in the candle and you will definitely have trouble halfway down and further. Yes, TallTayl, I think you are correct. CD 8 and 10 and Premier 750 are my next test wicks. The glass was also very hot on those both. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellajoan Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 1 hour ago, kandlekrazy said: I like the flame on the HTP the best and honestly I never expect a full melt pool on the first burn unless I do a 6-8 hour power burn. Weird that the 14 is not performing as well as the 12, are you sure they aren't mixed up? Yes! I was meticulous w/ labeling. So strange! But I still think it's overwicked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 Ditto what Tall Tayle said! cd 8 and a 10 I would test. And keep going on that htp 73..... Trappeur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 14 hours ago, ellajoan said: Yes! I was meticulous w/ labeling. So strange! But I still think it's overwicked. For sure over wicked. I wouldn't even go any further with the 2 CD wicks, I'd let it harden and swap them out for the 8 & 10. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 16 hours ago, ellajoan said: Yes! I was meticulous w/ labeling. So strange! But I still think it's overwicked. Read these to see how the CD's compare http://www.craftserver.com/forum/68-wax-and-wick-tests/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjdo Posted April 17 Share Posted April 17 8 OZ STRAIGHT SIDED Talltayl. im a coupke of years late to the conversation, but may i ask what wick you used with the 8 oz straight sided jars?!?!? I am haveing a really hard time with them..... Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 18 hours ago, mjdo said: 8 OZ STRAIGHT SIDED Talltayl. im a coupke of years late to the conversation, but may i ask what wick you used with the 8 oz straight sided jars?!?!? I am haveing a really hard time with them..... Thank you! It totally depends on the wax, fragrance and if there’s any sort of neck or variation of profile on the jar. for ceda cerica , for instance, filter rigid curl or cd or cdn can all work really well. for Midwest soy wax, cd work well in most fragrances. for coco83 blends where coco83 is 50% or more, cdn and cd work well. what are you using for wax, fragrance, fragrance load and jar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjdo Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 I am so sorry everything was in caps!!!! was an honest mistake......... Thank you for responding. Using c3 soy wax 10% fo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 1 hour ago, mjdo said: I am so sorry everything was in caps!!!! was an honest mistake......... Thank you for responding. Using c3 soy wax 10% fo Aww no worries Fragrance Friend. ☺️ C3 has become harder and harder to wick as additives increased to accept height per fragrance loads of ever more diluted retail fragrances. So frustrating. I would start with a CD 16 in that wax and container and go up/down a size from there. The most important part of a burn is the last half of the container. Wicking hot to get fast melt pool at the top will get you in trouble later. have you made an unscented candle with that wax and container to see how the wax itself burns without extra variables? Sometimes fragrance really interferes with a candle, it’s nice to know the base wax as a baseline to troubleshoot later. many people disagree with me about baseline testing a wax. I work with several fragrance labs, all of which use different diluents to to reach favorable price points for fragrances. “Uncut” fragrances run several hundred $ a kilo. Retail fragrances are diluted 25-75+% for end consumers depending on the product the fragrance is intended for, often aiming for $20 per lb targets to appeal to their market. Each diluent is different (IPM, DOA, Augeo, Dowanol, MPM, soy oil, mineral oil, etc) and interferes with the candle waxes and wicks differently. I’m aging myself when I say single, double and triple scented used to have meaning. I remember when 2-3% of a fragrance would fully scent a candle or soap to the point of them being way too strong. Now, at up to 75% fillers and cheaper aromachemicals in fragrances, it takes 5x as much fragrance oil to make a less scented candle. The more filler in a fragrance, the more issues you will have with your wax. Wax manufacturers have been adding increasingly more stabilizers to hold more filler, not necessarily more fragrance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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