Hot, HOT, HAWT!!!!!

[Sponiebr]

I'm not getting a real clear answer from my web searches, so it's time to pick all y'all's brains.

 

Preface: Remove all additives from this discussion. It is understood that saponification is technically the root of the issue. 

 

Question: What causes soaps to overheat? 

 

For my hurricane fun daze in no power and bored blind, I have made some pretty basic 60% CO 40% GV Shortening 1% SF laundry soaps. I made smallish batches too... (32 oz oils) I used my smaller 42 oz silicone loaf mold which has a 1/4" thick light pinewood box it sits in. They BOTH went through COMPLETE gel phase fresh baked split down the top and all. The crack was only about 1/4-3/8" deep, and it kinda closed up after it cooled down a bit. The soap is fine, (actually it's wonderful), and I'm kinda liking this gel phase stuff because 3 hr old soap had NO zap and was becoming too hard to cut,  and in 5 hours I had ready to use soap. I kinda liked that. I used full water in both batches, which as I understand lowers the gel phase temperature, and I soaped at room temp. The first batch was just left at room temperature (about 78 degrees) and the second batch, (because I remembered what the first batch did), I insulated it and caused the whole loaf to go into full gel. Wonderful soap, hard as obsidian and as long as I cut it while it's still warm it cuts like a dream, after that I need a diamond concrete saw to cut it, and it is as white as your perception of your kid's innocence... I'm kind of concerned about doing a large batch in my wood mold because I have NO way to freeze that mold, or to otherwise chill it.

 

So what gives?

 

Cheers,

 

Sponie the (tired) Executor of (meh...)   

[Jcandleattic]

Several things can be the culprit, but it sounds like it's your recipe. 

Looking at the post, it seems to me the thing that would be causing all of this is the coconut oil. It is a known heater, and the higher the % the better chance at over heating - especially if insulated. Wooden molds are great insulators even if the soap is not wrapped. Also coconut oil soaps get hard quick, which is also why it was probably so hard to cut. It has been said (although I have not experienced this) that the higher water content, the more prone to gel/overheating your soap can be as well. 

When making CO bars most people cut within a few hours, whether they chill them or not, just because they will get too hard to quickly if not. (as you have found out) 

 

Coconut soaps make wonderful soaps, and I for one (and probably the ONLY ONE) do not find CO to be drying. I can be, of course, because of it's cleansing properties, which makes it a great laundry oil, however, with the right combo of other oils, I find it a wonderful oil .It will also boost lather, which is why they make such great salt bars. 

 

 

I hope this helps. 

[Shari]

I agree that it was due to the high coconut as well as using full water caused the overheating especially if insulating.  I always watch my 100% CO or High CO soaps though I've started using a higher lye concentration which has gotten things more under control.  I generally cut at 3 hours or so and they are still warm.

[TallTayl]

I totally agree with the coconut oil being the big culprit in the overheating.

 

all that Lauric acid in the coconut oil and palm (in the shortening) will really harden that soap fast. almost too fast as you discovered. 

 

Yes, also, to more water leading to faster/more likely gel. 

[Candybee]

For laundry soap I wouldn't worry about the cracking or gel. I used to make a 50/50% blend of CO & lard with 0% superfat. But I used a flat or slab mold. I am getting ready to start doing 100% CO laundry soap and use my BB slab mold with the dividers so I don't have to worry about cutting the bars.