28nickels Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Hey guys, Let me first begin by saying how awesome all of you are! I've been a longtime lurker and learned so much from the info in this forum. It's so nice to have a forum like this which supports each other to the level you do. I can't thank you enough for the info here!! Here's my backstory - sorry if it's too much info but if I've learned anything so far it's that there's always a lot of questions about process after people post, lol. I'm using NatureWax C3 and I have no issues with frosting, pitting, craters, voids, etc. It finishes beautiful for me. Standard protocol is to heat to 185, add FO, stir well, pour around 150-ish into warmed containers. I don't use dyes. I began my journey making the pint size, shouldered mason jars with 1 oz FO/pp of wax and ECO 8 wicks. Great hot throw, clean burn, etc. As I'm expanding to the Libbey highball glasses from Lone Star (13.25 ounce ones - 3.125" in diameter) I'm having trouble with HT and wicking. If I use the ECO 8 wick, I get a low-moderate hot throw and more tunneling than I'd like to see, even after 4th burn. The tunneling and lack of HT makes sense since it's a much wider and non-shouldered container. I figured I needed to wick up so I tried some with the ECO 10 but there is barely any HT, the flame is crazy tall and flickers; the melt pool is pretty deep too- all of which is a sign of being too big of a wick, right? There isn't an ECO 9, and I saw that a lot of folks here recommend CD wicks so I ordered a sample pack of them. I made different batches with CD 8, 10 and 12 wicks. The 12 was just too big and the 10 seemed too big too. No good HT with either of them, crazy flickering and tall flames. The 8 had a better throw and good melt pool but flickers a lot with a good 1" tall+ flame. The 6 would seem too small to me and the charts I've seen make me think it's too small but what do I know at this point, lol. So I explained all of that to ask what characteristics of the flame/wick are deal breakers for you guys? I've watched the CS video with the 3 candles and most of the combinations I've tried in this container look like the one they say is over-wicked. Am I just being neurotic with a taller flickering flame and everything else being great? Are there any other factors here that I'm not thinking of? Thanks for reading! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevril Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I'm using C3 with ECO wicks also and having trouble with the hot throw so I'm hoping somebody answers this. The wax is lovely to work with and the cold throw is great. I really want to make it work? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Try either cotton core or HTP wicks. The supplier I use for the wax uses only HTP with C3, I have luck with cotton core. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
back2basics Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 I am in the same boat that you are. LOL What a crazy ride this thing called candlemaking. I couldn't agree more about the need for in between sizes of wicks. I have used c-3 and 415 (EZSoy) and 8 oz jj. I have tried the premier wicks, eco wicks, cd wicks. I am now in the process of ordering cdn wicks. Cierra Candles also recommended that I try some HTP wicks which I have not as of yet. She stated that she gets excellent results with those. Out of the eco, cd and premier....I do like the premier...just can't seem to find the right size for my combination. Please know that I do understand your "pain and frustration". The eco wicks for me were not a good fit at all. What would happen is they would burn great for a while and then would trim themselves and barely burn and my melt pool would shrink and the flame would almost go out. The cd wicks work nicely...however...I got some soot with the cd 12 and the flame was too high...the wick would burn great in the first part of the jar but where the jar is tapered towards the bottom it would become too hot. The cd 10 just would not produce a good melt pool at all. Don't worry we will get it all figured out. Hang in there and keep your chin up. :-) Hope it helps to have someone understand what you are going through. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) Here's another one to test LX series and CDN worked for me when I used this was but it was very brief that I did try a CDN12 if you got good results with a CD 12 but it was too hot I now use 415 and the CDN12 is always the perfect fit when a CD12 is too hot and a CD10 isn't enough they are basically the same wick different coating but I swear that coating makes a huge difference in burn with soy Edited April 1, 2016 by moonshine 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 Also CDN can be found at southwest candle supply - I keep all sizes on hand 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
back2basics Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 Thank you moonshine....you have been so much help to me as well...I will try the cdn 12..I appreciate your help so very much. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonstar Posted April 2, 2016 Share Posted April 2, 2016 Back2basics I agree ... Im new to the forum + candles and can't get over how wonderful everyone is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28nickels Posted May 5, 2016 Author Share Posted May 5, 2016 Thanks so much for the input and help guys!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logcabinmomma Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 I tested and used C3 for a while. HTP wicks worked best by far. C3 seems like a fairly slowly burning wax. I ended up switching to 464 and cd's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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