Pros and cons of different soap making techniques

[C Dizzle]

I have noticed 3 main ways, at least by my count, to make soap. Cold process, hot process, as well as melt & pour. I am still testing my candle line and will be for a while, but was wanting to add soaps as well for the soap maker's guild insurance, and well I've just always wanted to make my own soap.

 

I couldn't find a pros and con list on here, but there's so much information I may not know where to look or perhaps overlooked it. I currently know it is very dangerous and one must excise great caution making soaps. Do any of the methods produce a superior product to the others? That's what's most interesting to me and it being more difficult to make or learn isn't a deterrent. I started with soy rather than paraffin knowing it would be harder because I feel soy is a superior product to paraffin (I'm sure not all agree, but that's my take). I would rather not learn one method because it is easier if it doesn't produce as good a product as a more difficult to learn method.

 

If the methods produce a comparable product to each other, I'm also interested in a shorter cure time. I've spent 4 months testing candles and got more to go, so I have time. I certainly don't want to rush things, but if one had a shorter cure time but was equal to other methods in finished product, I would be interested in that just so I could test and use the soap faster.

 

[C Dizzle]

From what I am reading, I don't think I would be interested in melt & pour, but cold or hot process. Cold process currently appeals to me more since I have more freedom of ingredients, and more leeway in what I make. The cure time is a put off, but if they will turn out better sooner, that seems desirable currently. I'm so on the fence about this though!

 

FWIW, I am definitely wanting to use a variety of molds and that seems like cold process would be better for. Is that correct?

Edited January 4, 2016 by C Dizzle

[TallTayl]

The question is much like do you prefer percolated coffee or drip both can make great coffee.

I learned CP first. Once i learned CP, learning HP was easy. Understanding HP made liquid soap a breeze.

Mastering soap will take some time and dedication. While a bar of HP soap "can" be used quicker, it too should be lallowed to cure for several weeks.

Soap continues to cure with age. Some end up better, others do not. You'll need to play with formulas and observe them over time to see if they will be shelf-stable for a reasonable amount of time. For example, using recipes with a lot of short shelf-life oils (like those high in linoleic and linolenic fatty acids such as canola, grape seed, hemp or corn) can result in a smelly, discolored rotten bar of soap after a few months.

I stick with CP, simply because i can turn it out much faster than HP. There's no way without major commercial equipment that i could turn out the hundreds of bars in a few hours the way i can with CP. I learned shortcuts over the course of the first thousand batches so that it is fast, reliable and easy (even with difficult fragrances and essential oils).

Give it a go and see if it makes sense. And.... That you even LIKE making it for retail. "Having" to make soap, versus "wanting" to make soap is a big hurdle. "Having" to make it sucked the joy right out for a long while. After a few months break the joy is growing again.

[Guest OldGlory]

I have questions before I can answer.

 

1. What is your purpose in adding soaps to your line?

In your own words, give me your thoughts on why you want to make soap.

 

2. Which types of soaps have you tried, and which did you prefer?

There are so many different types of soap. I made my choice based on what I like to use.

 

3. What do you want your soap to look like?

There are lots of pictures on this message board so give me an idea of what you want to create.

 

4. What resources have you investigated to get a good feel for the soap making/selling processes? You tube doesn't count.

For example, I probably bought a dozen books on soapmaking before I decided to dive in. I knew what I wanted and although the tools and processes have changed somewhat I had a very clear idea of what I wanted because of the resources I used.

 

Your answers will help me give you better information.

[C Dizzle]

TallTayl, thanks for the detailed response. I was considering going cold press, then liquid soap at some point but if it is easier to learn cold, then hot, then liquid, that sounds like a plan. Do you have any posts here regarding any tips or tricks you learned? I would love to read it. Obviously I'm not trying to mass produce like you off the bat, but in the distant future when I am ready I'd probably go that route and if it's far easier for CP, that sounds like a deal-sealer to me!

 

I also feel that I worded the have to poorly. I genuinely REALLY want to learn how to make all types of soaps, including liquid soaps, but at this current time I am trying to get soap maker's guild insurance and I want to be able to make at least one or so decent bars before I get it to sell my candles. I WANT to learn and make these, I just wait I could wait a few more months when I'm done making and testing a bunch of soy candles. It'll be a few months before I am ready to sell candles, but it would be nice to have that insurance so I don't have to "waste" a year with insurance elsewhere. So the "have" to feeling is that I'm not wanting to take time away from candles yet, but it's probably the wisest avenue currently. I'm not going to try to skirt around any rules, so whatever they require, I am doing.

 

Old Glory

1. I sort of answered this above. I legitimately want to offer soaps, and didn't want to learn how to do them yet as I am focusing on candles. But soap maker's guild insurance demands at least one bar of soap be offered in your line, although they are clear it doesn't need to be any amount or percentage. I don't want to do a terrible job on it, so I was hoping to dedicate time to crafting a line of soaps and perfecting at least one process (I'm thinking CP) but if I can make one or more soaps that are great and get the insurance for candles and soaps, then that's cool. Other than these, a major motivator is it would be nice to use my own soaps for home bathing, and the sooner I learn how to make a quality bar of soap, the sooner I can start using it at home.

 

2. I like all kinds. I do really like the bar soaps, especially hand made I've seen. The only type I didn't like was some bottle at a health foods store that was just a white bottle with a tooooooooon of writing all over it, if you know what I'm saying, and my only gripe with it though was certain areas of my body felt super cold when it got there and that was spooky to me. Other than that, it was good, but that part was a deal-breaker. I've never disliked any other soap enough to just flat out not use it.

 

3. I definitely want to play around with a lot of different molds, and from what I understand, CP might be better for this. I like the bar types, and the swirls look amazing. I'm not going for any particular style though, if I make it and like it Ill give it to friends or sell it if others are interested. If I understand correctly, CP has a smoother texture, and that appeals to me.

 

4. I have bought 3 books that I should have Wed or Thurs. I've read a bit here, and some other soap/candle supply vendors. I'm considering getting a CP starter kit from peak, as it was cheap and looked straightforward, but I'm very open to suggestions here.

 

Lastly, Candle Science has told me their FOs can be used in soaps if the IRFA document states it can, up to a very precise percentage. I'm also reading some processes are fickle about the type of FO or EO they can use, and I'm not quite sure yet how to figure out if a FO will work in CP soap. I didn't see any of them in the "FOs that ROCK in CP" thread. I was thinking of going exclusively EO, but if I can make a candle and soap smell similar with the same FO, that's very intriguing to me.

 

The way I try to view it is, is this something I would buy for myself or my immediate family in the store? I'm very particular and picky about it, so if so, it's something I would make and give away/sell. That's all kinds of vague, but a main line of reasoning is if it's high quality and reasonably priced, then it's good. I think if I went into the store and saw a soy candle and soap that smelled the same, that would intrigue me to get it for my wife, kids, or maybe even myself. That's the kind of product I want to make. I saw a tutorial where someone put rose petals on the top of the soap as it cooled, and one long edge had rose petals in them. That's neat! But is that practical? Is it bad? That I'm trying to find answers to, but if so, it's something I would buy for my wife for sure, so it's something I would want to make.

 

I'm no stranger to bad tutorials and I've read so many soy tutorials after the fact that are very misleading. Any tutorial suggestions though I will gladly read.

[C Dizzle]

I think in the long run I'd rather just make big batches of bars of soap if it's great, and stick with molds for friends and family, but I did want to do both in some capacity.

[Guest OldGlory]

I appreciate your candid response very much. If I was faced with the choice I would find a different insurance that doesn't require that you make a soap if your primary reason is to satisfy insurance requirements.

 

The minimal investment in time and costs would be to make M&P. You buy the blocks of M&P, melt it down, put in your additives, pour it in a mold, and let it harden. Viola. No cure time other than overnight to harden.

 

There is a huge learning curve with CP, and a minimum investment of probably $200 in equipment that can be dedicated to soaping. I can almost guarantee you will ruin a few batches - everyone does in the beginning. Also a batch of 3 lbs will take you hours to make until you've done several dozen batches. Then you need space to let them cure for an average of 6 weeks. You can do all the fancy things with CP.

 

HP is a different process altogether. The benefit to making HP is that you get a bar of soap that similar to CP in how it feels on your skin, but you can't get the fancy swirls. Saponification occurs during the process with HP.

 

There's one other option that mimics the results of HP, and that is to buy soap noodles. This is an actual soap that has been shred or grated, (think grating cheese for pizza) and you add a little liquid, the noodles, melt it all down, put in your additives, and pour or spoon it into a mold.

 

Good luck!

[C Dizzle]

I think I will try out a melt & pour kit, or just go with another insurance. They were very clear on their requirements that I had to sell one type, but didn't have to be much. But I'd rather have a line of soaps that I love, rather than that one I made right that one time to get the insurance without feeling bad, so I have some thinking to do on how best to proceed.

 

Other than melt and pour experimenting, I would want to start with CP for sure. I'll wait for my books to arrive and then go from there. I've noticed there are multiple types of lyes even. Is there a lye type you recommend for CP, and a supplier?

Edited January 4, 2016 by C Dizzle

[Guest OldGlory]

I am not aware of different types of lye that can be used in soapmaking. And I will let some of the members who currently make soap respond about where to buy it.

You do NOT want a large batch of lye when starting out. Also, lye pellets and lye flakes have a tendency to float around - and you don't want that to happen since it will burn your skin. I have a dog and when I made soap I finished up by wiping down all surfaces and mopping my floor just in case a bit of lye landed somewhere I didn't see. I didn't want my dog to burn her feet on a little loose lye.

There used to be a good tutorial at Bittercreek North for beginners with CP. I bet some other candle suppliers also have good tutorials too. You can learn a lot from the ones from suppliers... they have a vested interest in your success.

[debratant]

for cold process batches of soap, you have to use sodium hydroxide.  there is potassium hydroxide, but that is for making liquid soap, not cold process or hot process....just wanted to throw that out there.

I get my lye at True Value....they have the small bottle of rooto brand.  it's 100 percent lye. you can buy lye online....for instance, the lye guy....but that's alot of lye if you are just starting out.  I buy lye almost every time I go to the True Value...he only keeps 1 bottle on the shelf at a time ( apparently meth makers use it in their manufacturing of meth...nasty huh? lol) so when I see it, I buy it.

[TallTayl]

The way i look at it C Dizzle, you have the desire to learn, so take this quiet winter time and "just do it". If you love it, super. If not, you will at least have some nice soap to use. I get that the Guild requires at least aomething "soap". It does not have to be much soap, but it does require a soap.

Early on, when i first started learning about making soap, i made small batches of single oils. Understanding each oil catapulted my skills forward way faster than just poking in the dark at other people's recipes. Start with things you have in the kitchen already to get your feet wet.

Check out a few online SAP calculators (like soapcalc.net and brambleberry) and understand why you get different measurements from them.

Some you may already have in your kitchen to play with might be:

Pure Olive Oil (some brands are heavily cut with canola oil.)

Coconut Oil at different superfat levels. (Zero superfat coconut ol soap is GREAT for house and laundry cleaning and meets the requirement!!!!)

Palm oil

Lard

Tallow (rendering tallow was a *treat* (not really, lol)

Crisco

Canola

The above with various milks (coconut milk, goat milk, etc) and other additives.

Then i made the trinity (Olive, Palm and Coconut) with and without different milks. Then added an oil to see how it changed the soap. Added a few herbs to see how they would look. Used a few spices for colors.

With small batches, 1lb of oils, the cost per batch is minimal as is the time investment. In the end you still have some great soap to use. Whats really cool is you can learn to rebatch the soap at whatever proportions you like later on. (imo everyone should rebatch at least once to understand why they do or don't like it). You can also shred the soap into other new batches of different oils as a different type of rebatch.

The single oil exercise was great for liquid soap later on. I can blend whatever i want into a liquid soap at any time.

Using various things i had around already, my first batch of soap cost a couple of $. Stick blenders at goodwill are a couple bucks. A new one from wally world is less than $20, though whisking taught a great deal too. My first molds were a few "Really Useful Boxes" from Office Max i already had for office supply storage and ziploc disposable food storage things with lids. When i moved to bigger batches i used PVC pipes with test caps. I have stock piles of goggles in the wood workshop (good eye protection is non-negotiable). Had old rubbermade pitchers for lye water, plastic pails and bowls for oils and a decent kitchen scale that measured to the gram. Being thrifty at the start was a fun challenge.

Once i figured out that i liked making soap i built my own wood molds and wire cutters from scrap wood. Some i still use today (8+ years later). I felt it was cray cray to invest loads of cash on molds i may not use later if i chose different dimensions.

[Jcandleattic]

Everyone has given sound advice. The only thing I would like to reiterate, is that if you want a nice, mild, great bar of soap, there is no such thing as a "faster cure". All soap, once the saponification process is complete (HP, after the cook, CP up to 72 hours) is 'safe' to use. However, it is very harsh. Although HP is much milder than CP much sooner, it still benefits from a nice long cure. 

I will not sell an HP soap without at least a 4 week cure, and CP without at least a 6-8 week cure. 

Most soapmakers will say not to sell/give your soaps away before a year. The reasoning behind that is by that long as I believe TT mentioned, you will know how well your soap recipe has stood up over the test of time. 

 

Sounds like you are on the right track, and good luck. Let us know if you have anymore questions. 

[C Dizzle]

Thanks for all the advice. I talked to my wife and her tastes for hand-made soap were precise in a few areas: goats milk, swirly colors, crinkle cut. So I think I shall start with that.

 

I know that large molds are a wishlist for 6 months to a year, or possibly longer (not sure, but won't invest until I'm ready). I did see a very large one on Brambleberry that has 36 slots and makes what they seem to claim is uniform size soap. Is that the same mold you have but with the smaller slats for the 72 bars, TallTayl, or was that one you made yourself?

http://www.brambleberry.com/36-Bar-Unfinished-Birchwood-Mold-P5167.aspx

 

Obviously I'll start smaller and my money's being funneled into soy candles currently, so I couldn't even get a lot of soap stuff if I wanted to. I have a ton of boxes and the like around the house I'll begin with, but was curious down the road what something more durable was and some of those look amazing! Not cheap, though, by any means.

[chuck_35550]

I love making cold process soap. It's fascinating to watch the oils come together and begin the saponification process. Melt and Pour was and is a difficult medium for me, in that real artistry takes a thorough knowledge of the medium. Low sweat or low moisture, organic, butter base, and on and on is a headache in itself. Understand that mp or glycerin soap base can take additives, be painted, and I love to add it into cold process soap to make a jeweled soap. The options are endless and expensive. I have several books that are so helpful in understanding the science of soap making and ideas about coloration, additives and molds. I buy my lye from Essential Depot and love how easy it is to store and use. You can start off learning from oils found in your grocery store (lard, coconut, olive) and anything lined with wax paper can become a mold. Silicone molds are the easiest and pretty available at wally world. Coloration (not food coloring) can be found in the store as well. The point being that you can become immersed in all these hand made crafts without breaking the bank (wally world even has some essential fragrance oils) or becoming frustrated. I have only lost one batch of soap and probably could have saved that one but was too lazy. Read these valuable posts and try Miller soap as a beginner site, most of her basic formulas are ok and the information is sound. Your best investment is a good scale and I don't mean a kitchen scale. You have to be accurate in soaping, lye is serious stuff. Not pushing Essential Depot but their silicone soap molds are awesome. HTH

Steve

[Candybee]

When I first starting making soap I made M&P. Back then I was mainly a candle company and thought I didn't have time to learn CP. Working with M&P actually helped me transition into CP very easily like a fish to water. I was already used to many of the properties of the oils and other additives I was using in my soapmaking.

 

Once I started making CP I continued to offer M&P soap to my customers. I took a full year to transition into making CP. For that first year I made mostly a simple beginner recipe with olive oil, coconut oil, lard, and castor. Working with my basic beginner recipe I learned a lot about soapmaking as I took my time testing out and incorporating more oils, butters, additives, etc, to my soapmaking.

 

After about 2 years I was offering CP to my customers and dropped the M&P as I had always wanted and was ready to sell it. I learned CP first then HP and CPOP.

 

Now I make mostly CP as I much prefer it over HP as I find it more versatile and I must churn out a buttload of soap as I sell it faster now than I can make it. After several years I have had to learn this past year to masterbatch. But I now offer mostly CP, along with a few HP and CPOP soaps.

 

RE lye; there are basically 2 types of lye. Sodium Hydroxide is for CP or hard soapmaking and Potassium Hydroxide for making liquid soaps. For cream soaps you can use a mixture of both but that's another process too. Also, there are two grades of Sodium Hydroxide and if you are on a website that offers both buy the food grade lye. BTW-- I buy my lye in bulk from Essential Depot.

 

On a side note, when I made M&P I sold the tar out of it. On top of that I had customers tell me they liked mine better than other soaper's soap they had tried. I was told that again and again over the years and I was also able to see how I was busy selling soap while other vendors just watched. I also happened to know some of those soapers and they made CP soap. So when I decided to make CP soap I wanted to take my time to learn it properly as I did not want to offer an inferior product.

 

It just goes to show you that any type of soap you decide to make doesn't mean that it will be the best or the best selling. You have to really learn to make and produce a quality soap no matter what process you use. Any process can produce a quality product. For me, first learning M&P then CP worked out perfect. So whatever process you decide on take your time and learn it properly.

Edited January 5, 2016 by Candybee

[TallTayl]

Thanks for all the advice. I talked to my wife and her tastes for hand-made soap were precise in a few areas: goats milk, swirly colors, crinkle cut. So I think I shall start with that.

 

I know that large molds are a wishlist for 6 months to a year, or possibly longer (not sure, but won't invest until I'm ready). I did see a very large one on Brambleberry that has 36 slots and makes what they seem to claim is uniform size soap. Is that the same mold you have but with the smaller slats for the 72 bars, TallTayl, or was that one you made yourself?

http://www.brambleberry.com/36-Bar-Unfinished-Birchwood-Mold-P5167.aspx

 

Obviously I'll start smaller and my money's being funneled into soy candles currently, so I couldn't even get a lot of soap stuff if I wanted to. I have a ton of boxes and the like around the house I'll begin with, but was curious down the road what something more durable was and some of those look amazing! Not cheap, though, by any means.

I tried that style of mold (bought 2 Kelsei molds eons ago). While the rectangular dimensions were all identical, it was almost impossible for me to level the soap in the tray to make them all the same thickness. Plus, the dividers were a total pain to insert and remove without buggering up my bars. I sold them after a week because they just were not what I needed or wanted.

 

SOoooo, i standardized my product dimensions, then built simple log molds using scrap 1x4's and 1x6" lumber. A quick line with freezer paper and I have a new mold in minutes.  If you don't want to build, check out the Really Useful Boxes at Office Max. They have secure lids and vertical sides. I have found silicone liners for log molds that fit my bar size over the years too. Keep your eyes peeled at Ebay and various soaping destash groups on facebook. If you have more time than money you can really score as people destash.

 

Colorants are where you'll go broke (since fragrances you may have already with your chandling). Finding colors that remain stable in soap (especially Goat Milk which carries a load of challenges alone) will take time and experimentation.

 

Goat Milk ( and all other proteins and sugars) can heat up a LOT in soap, both as you make it and in the mold as it saponifies. When it gets hot it changes colors and stinks of ammonia. If it overheats in the mold you end up with a mess. You may want to make a bunch uncolored and even unscented (as some fragrances can cause overheating - like florals and spices among many others) until you figure out your temps and process

 

Oh, and on the FO, you probably did it already, but make sure they are skin safe, allowed in soap and at what level. All FO are different and will play differenty in your soap.

 

Soaping is a really rewarding craft when you stick with it. I love pushing the envelope and busting myths

[Candybee]

Re the Brambleberry mold, I have two of them but the 18 bar molds. Like Talltayl I ended up not using them for my primary soapmaking. Same reasons, couldn't always get the tops level, and the dividers are loose and bend and don't make even bars unless you tweak with them constantly. Only this past year I found I started stuffing paper between the wood and end dividers to keep the dividers from shifting.

 

But I only use those molds for my salt bars now. Not my regular bars of soap. Like TT I stardardized my molds so all my soaps are uniform in size. But with salt bars they work great because I don't have to worry about cutting them as they pop out of the mold. Salt bars can be difficult to cut and have to be cut on time or they turn too hard to work with or crumble. Another pro for the mold is that you can do awesome column swirls in the mold and the swirls make my salt bars beautiful!

[C Dizzle]

The amount of information and knowledge you all share is amazing and I hope to be able to start giving back to others eventually. I'm a long ways away from it, but one day!

 

How many pounds do your biggest molds hold?

 

That's unfortunate news on not being able to level the tops of those bars. The troubleshooting part in me wants to ask if you were sure the table was level, but I'm pretty sure you two of all people looked at that first thing and that leads me to believe it's just a defect/trouble with the mold. I would imagine you'd have to not only have it on a level surface, but somehow be able to close all the slats at the exact same instant for it to be uniform thickness? I'm just guessing here and could be way off.

 

Do y'all recommend any books on soy candles or soap making? I can't seem to find a single book that jumps out to me as good specifically regarding soy candles, but I did order a few which I'll link below. I also ordered an infrared thermometer.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006K3M8BK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

 

I'm super excited for this as a consistent thermometer I don't have to clean each time appeals to me, as does the instant read. I'm aware of it reading surface temps, but I can deal with that and will do heavy testing to make sure I'm being consistent with temps. This appeals greatly to the computer geek in me (my trade), because I can't find emissivity values for any type of wax online and I am thinking they will change, at least slightly, depending on the wax, colorant, fragrance, etc, and I'll get to test out for myself if it does. I looked high and low on these forums and the internet in general regarding wax emissivity, and came up short. This thermometer can change from values of 0.10 to 1.00 by increments of 0.01, so I can get pretty precise with it. So I may be able to provide new information (although very technical) here eventually, although it may or may not be useful to many people. Of course I could be wrong and it already exists, in which case, feel free to point it out

 

 

I also got these two books on candlemaking. Looks like a small amount about soy, but a bit in general.

 

Candlemaking for Fun & Profit (focusing on fun, but profit in a few years would be nice)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0761520406?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

 

Candle Making Genius - How to Make Candles That Look Beautiful & Amaze Your Friends (not a fan of that title, but it seemed to be a good resource)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1910085049?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02

 

And these three books on soap. I am getting ahead of myself with these, but I do want to read ahead and be more prepared when I tackle soap fully than I was with soy candles.

 

Soap Maker's Workshop: The Art and Craft of Natural Homemade Soap (looks to have a lot about the chemistry behind it, which fascinates me. Reviews say its good for its cold press information only)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440207917?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

 

Homemade Beauty Products for Beginners: The Complete Bundle Guide to Making Luxurious Homemade Soap, Homemade Body Butter, & Homemade Shampoo Recipes (reading ahead)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1508840628?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02

 

Making Natural Liquid Soaps: Herbal Shower Gels, Conditioning Shampoos, Moisturizing Hand Soaps, Luxurious Bubble Baths, and more (again, I'm far away from being able to use this information, but expanding my knowledge first!)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1580172431?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

[Candybee]

Re the thermometer-- I don't use one for soapmaking. I did when I first started out but eventually quit using it as I learned how to work with the lye and oil temps without one.

 

My advice would be to not spend big bucks on a fancy thermometer for soapmaking. A cheap $5 candy/meat thermometer at the local grocery or dollar store works just fine.

 

But since you are involved with candlemaking then it would be a good one to have for that.

 

Re books-- I still haven't bought any other than the few M&P books I purchased years ago when I first started. There are a couple CP soapmaking books I know I would like to have but really don't need them now. I learned my soapmaking from established soaping sites like Miller's Soap, Snowdrift Farms, Brambleberry, and Soapcalc and of course forums like this one. They got me started and answered a lot of questions. I also took some soapmaking classes from a local soaper. Some websites like Soapalooza and Candles and Supplies offer soapmaking and or candlemaking classes. But mostly I learned on my own through trial and error. It takes time and lots of practice.

 

When I get around to it this is the book I want to buy: http://www.amazon.com/dp/0882669656/?tag=mh0b-20&hvadid=3487928965&hvqmt=p&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_86i1o2lip7_p

Soapmakers I know, the best soapmakers have this book in their library. Its hailed as one of the best soapmaking books out there.

 

I started doing soap demos in my community for those interested in learning basic cold process soapmaking. I use that same basic recipe I first learned to teach. I also use it because all the ingredients can be sourced locally and its an easy beginner recipe. I like to pay it forward this way and keep the art of soapmaking alive so others can get as excited as I am about it and start making their very own homemade soaps too!

Edited January 6, 2016 by Candybee

[C Dizzle]

Yeah I'm more worried about candles with the thermometer as it's my main focus, and for consistency I need to use the same one over and over. If I make one batch of candles at a time it's no thing to clean it and use the same one, but when I tried two it just wasn't in the cards, and my other one is a few degrees off. It also looks useful around the house to help me find those elusive drafts! It wasn't too bad, $80 was hundreds cheaper than the others that let me change emissivity by 0.01 as others were .1 increments, or just flat stuck on 0.95. Soap is just one of many things I will use it on.

[chuck_35550]

I like Scientific Soap Making by Kevin Dunn, available on Amazon. YouTube has Soapmaking 101, Brambleberry's Soap Queen and if you type in swirling; you get a lot of wild and crazy things that people are doing with soap of all kinds. Some things are hit and miss but that's how you learn. I use an oven thermometer that has a long silver cord or tether with a metal probe on the end. It has a timer but mostly it is easy to slip the probe into wax or soap with the read out where you need it. Temp is so important with wax and soap. My basement lab is full to overflowing with thousands of dollars worth of supplies, packaging and tools. My number one rule? NEVER EVER THROW ANYTHING AWAY! EVER! I can't begin to tell you how often something sits around for a long time and then suddenly it becomes part of a plan or idea. Rule 2: Wear gloves, a good respirator for both candle or soap making, wear protective glasses and never have pets or children around you when making candles or soap. Hot wax hurts but not like hot lye water or fresh soap batter. Never leave anything down within reach of pets or children. Wow, I'm on a random roll! Bottom line is this takes years of work and experimentation to create a good product. One of the best web sites is Ginger's Garden. Her soaps are beautiful and the presentation is superb.

[TallTayl]

How many pounds do your biggest molds hold?

That's unfortunate news on not being able to level the tops of those bars. The troubleshooting part in me wants to ask if you were sure the table was level, but I'm pretty sure you two of all people looked at that first thing and that leads me to believe it's just a defect/trouble with the mold. I would imagine you'd have to not only have it on a level surface, but somehow be able to close all the slats at the exact same instant for it to be uniform thickness? I'm just guessing here and could be way off.

My molds range from single cavity bars (initial fragrance testing) to 5lb logs, to 20lb blocks and 1 40-lb block. I can't easily move heavy ones like that 40lb one much any more.

The flat mold with dividers was tough to level because soap does not remain at watery thin trace for long. While my formula and technique are pretty forgiving, it was not possible to make it all really level in the mold. Once poured into the mold it was not possible for me to shake, bang, twist, etc to level the whole mold before quickly putting the dividers in. Not much is as frustrating as unmolding to find that several bars per tray do not meet weight! While others are much thicker and overweight. Almost as bad is prying the dividers and marring the bars.

Those slabs might work just fine for you, though, so if you love them give 'em a go. What have you to lose?

[C Dizzle]

Those slabs might work just fine for you, though, so if you love them give 'em a go. What have you to lose?

 

About a hundred bucks

[TallTayl]

About a hundred bucks

you could slap one together inexpensively with scrap lumber and use a wide drywall taping knife to cut. someone on this forum (or maybe another it's been a really long time) made their liners and grid using Lexan. I tried it, and the concept was good.

 

I'll need to think about the author to search the topic, but using Lexan Soap Mold in the search might turn up something.

Edited January 6, 2016 by TallTayl

[TallTayl]

remembered! it was cWayneU who built it!

 

here is one thread of a few that popped up when I searched Lexan Soap Mold.

http://www.craftserver.com/topic/84036-slab-mold-with-divider/?hl=%2Blexan+%2Bsoap+%2Bmold#entry787994