Clear Black Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Can you re-use soy GB 444 after its been heated and cooled? Basically, i was testing pour temps. I decided which one I liked better and melted the wax I had poured into my two jars, then poured back into my melt pan. I am, as of writing this, re-heating the wax to do a pour test with scent added as a step 2 type process. Will the original pure soy GB 444 behave the same on this second re-heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GalaxyGirl Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Since your second pour will contain FO's then the wax might behave differently from the first pour with just wax. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 It was pure soy. As the title states. No FO, just the GB 444 As a side note, I am starting my testing phase over again. The first 3 batches of candles I made came out with some pretty flawed tops and air pockets. The first batch i made I put in 1.5oz of FO to 1lb 444. Melted to 180, added my FO, poured at 125. The tops came out horrible and I had cavities/cave-in everywhere. Also, after added in my FO at 180* I realized this particular FO had a Flash point of 140. The wa looked aweful and the hot throw was non-existent. Second batch I made, different scent, FP of 200, I again melted to 180, poured at 125. Again the tops looked horrible and I had air pockets and "tunnels" throughout. I test burned them and the wax pool had many tiny little bubbles from the air leaving the pockets. Cold throw was spot on, but now the hot throw is minor. I can go upstairs, and return again downstairs and get a "HINT" of Lilacs. I want more than that. It was at least point I decided to start over and begin with just testing the soy in a jar. Period. So again I melted to 180, but this time I poured one at 150* and the other at 100* The 150 pour had wick seperation and cave ins. Overall top looked nice, but I was unhappy with what I saw. The 100* pour on the other hand was SPOT ON. Like glass. No flaws on the surface as far as I could see. Both pours had very similar jar adhesion, so I wasnt concerned there. Which brings me to step 2. Pour at 100* and add scent, wick. Im using wood wicks by the way. Two sand whiched back-back. 5/8" Original Crackling Wick by http://www.woodcandlewick.com/in a 12oz Elite Jar. I tested the 1/2" wick, and the burn pool eventually got to the outsides, but left a "ring" of unburned wax around the edge. Plus scent throw wasnt as noticeable as with the 5/8. (Even though I wasnt happy at all with the hot throw from either) Anyways, that was more than I planned on typing jeez. Any tips or anything I typed that stood out as a red flag PLEASE step in and say so. I need all the help I can take. -Cheers all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 Oh disregard that first reply. I misread your comment. Beut yes GG. This is EXACTLY what i am testing for. If my FO changes the behavior of my wax. I know it does, I just need to figure out my pour temps with FO added. Pouring at 100* with just pure Soy seemed to leave with with a glass top. I was very happy. I will add my FO and again pour at 100* and see if it changes. I just didnt know if I could re-use the first batch of pure Soy that I heated, cooled, and will re-heat again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 While pour temps are very important, i find my candles are glossiest with a rapid cool. The crystals set smaller with fast cooling. When cooling slowly i can watch them agglomerate and grow, leaving a dull surface. Since your wax is uncolored and unscented remelting should not be a problem - so long as it was not overheated at any step. I often make a vat of wax, let it cool completely, then reheat. It behaves the same IME regardelss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 I always heat my wax, allow it to cool and reheat before I make 1 candle with it. I use C3 but doing that to the wax actually makes it perform better for me. Also if there is any wax left in mymelter I leave it in, fill it up and melt it before I turn it off for the day, that way it's ready when I remelt. Most people leave whatever wax is left in their melters and add new to fill it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 While pour temps are very important, i find my candles are glossiest with a rapid cool. The crystals set smaller with fast cooling. When cooling slowly i can watch them agglomerate and grow, leaving a dull surface.Since your wax is uncolored and unscented remelting should not be a problem - so long as it was not overheated at any step. I often make a vat of wax, let it cool completely, then reheat. It behaves the same IME regardelss. I always heat my wax, allow it to cool and reheat before I make 1 candle with it. I use C3 but doing that to the wax actually makes it perform better for me. Also if there is any wax left in mymelter I leave it in, fill it up and melt it before I turn it off for the day, that way it's ready when I remelt. Most people leave whatever wax is left in their melters and add new to fill it.Great info. Thanks a bunch. I wasnt exactly sure if wax kept its original properties after a heat/reheat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Great info. Thanks a bunch. I wasnt exactly sure if wax kept its original properties after a heat/reheat. As long as you don't go over the max temp that the mfg suggests, it will be just fine. Mine is 200 degrees, however I have gone over that just don't keep it at 200 or over for very long. I useelectric melting pots to melt my wax so it's hard to get an exact temp until you know your pot and how much wax is in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 Great info. Thanks a bunch. I wasnt exactly sure if wax kept its original properties after a heat/reheat. As long as you don't go over the max temp that the mfg suggests, it will be just fine. Mine is 200 degrees, however I have gone over that just don't keep it at 200 or over for very long. I useelectric melting pots to melt my wax so it's hard to get an exact temp until you know your pot and how much wax is in it. Im also researching melting pots so I can, when ready, make a bigger batch than my current 1lb a a time. Any chance you can link me to what type of melter you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 I use the large presto pots for most small runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 I use the large presto pots for most small runs.I just found a link to one of those Presto Pots with a built in spigot. http://www.prestopotwaxmelter.com/index.html priced around $60, seems like a good starter melter for a hobbiest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 EDIT: Try this link instead: http://www.prestopotwaxmelter.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Those will serve you well i bet. none of mine have spigots and i never missed them. I use two big prestos and one of the smaller original size. All about half the price of the spigoted ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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