rjdaines

What is the diameter of the jar?

I have not used that container but something similar. What is the suggested use for the container? If the glass is thin, it might make a nice personal candle but one for sale. Wicking should be interesting with the shape. Not impossible because I have a similar one. I call it a rolly polly jar.

Testing is simple, you make a candle and you burn it and see how it does. Does it smoke, does it have a good hot throw and cold throw, how fast does the melt pool appear, is the melt pool too small or too deep, is the flame too small or too large. Most burn a candle for 1 hour for every inch in diameter, so roughly 3 to 4 hours and then blow out the candle, letting it completely cool and then light it up again. Testing is done until the candle is burnt out with roughly an inch of wax left. If your candle are perfect already, post a few pictures and let us see.

If I need to remelt a container candle I use the double boiler method. Don't use the microwave if there is a metal wick tab at the bottom. Bad things can happen. For us who don't use 4627, I can also cut the wax out and add it to my pour pot.

The guidelines for this wax seem rather long and involved, wonder if it will be Presto Pot compatible. I tend to leave my wax molten for some time during a busy session of candle making.

Web site says 100% Vegetable Container Wax

I have a spreadsheet that I set up that calculate my cost and then the profit. The small Elemental Jars (sig pic) I sell cheap and make a couple of $$ and hopefully pay for a table. The idea being that someone tries my product and may want to now buy the larger candles. More profit built into the bigger ones. Do I think I'm going to get rich doing this? Nope but one never knows. I have too much competition from larger players in this area; Gold Canyon Candles, WalMart, Bath and Body Works, and Yankee.

Yep, I'll tell anyone anything, what I say and do may not be perfect but if we all share we can all improve our creations. Whatever we mention should be taken as a starting place for individual testing and not, necessarily, as fact written in stone.

I don't think they are, just like soy isn't waxy but if there is oil, it can be hydrogenated (industrial process) and turned into wax. Hence the discussions about what is a 'natural" wax.

Yep, same address, didn't notice that.

Checked the website and they sell by the case. Wish I could get 5 lbs or so to try.

I had to look up what 416 was and the web site lists it as a tart wax, not sure how well it would be as a pillar wax. I tried making pillars with EcoSoyas' PB wax but didn't like the results so I now use paraffin (4625) for pillars. People have very good luck with palm wax but I have not tried that yet.

Daughters used to work of BBW and we had plenty of their candles and at time the wicks did seem to drown but telling people NOT the true seems wrong. Slatkin should find better wicks. Regarding the Mason jars: while not a identical comparison I use similar jars with my 4630/464 blend and wick with HTP-83 if the FO is not too heavy. Ink Sugar for example works very well as does Jamaica Me Crazy. Flames are well behaved and no obvious soot. Trim before each burn. I find that the parasoy works well and the soy turns down the paraffin burn a bit without sacrificing HT.

I think these are the folks that "make" these alternative waxes Here Maybe they can tell you of a distributor.

You don't mention what soy you are planning on using and why you want to use soy. As has been mentioned above, it takes a long time to develop a candle that works and is safe, December is not nearly long enough to do this. You have made one important step, chosen a container. I made my life difficult by wanting to use 5 different containers.

What you said so far sounds ok but what is the container size, melt pool size, wick type and size? It the size, depth, and temp of the melt pool that gives HT. Also, no all FOs will work.

Any wicking issues with the Scent Works DB?

Looks like I solved the issue with C.S. Dragon's Blood. I knew I had to wick up but didn't realize how much. Normally my Status Jars (12 oz) use an HTP-83 wick, I had to go to an HTP-1212. Test burn in progress but looking ans smelling good. Order BC Dragon's Blood for a comparison. Will have to try a 1212 with Cinnamon Buns next.

Does this FO from BC require wicking up like the CS one?

Wax is 4630 and FO load is 7%. Guess I am asking if people have found a particular type of wick which is less prone to clogging than some others.

I have two FO that are clogging my HTP (an other) wicks; Cinnamon Buns and Dragon's Blood. The first is from Peaks and the other from CS. I've gone up 3 sizes and still clogs. I have CD, ECO, and LX available to try. Does anyone have a solution? The FOs are very dark. Thanks

Commercial grade digital thermometers are usually +/- 2 degrees F, so having two that read about 5 degrees apart would not be not surprising. Stick thermometers (none scientific ones) usually have the scale printed on so they can be off a few degrees as well. Bottom line is that 5 degrees is not a big deal in this application. If you live at sea level, boil some water and see if it reads 212. If you are significantly above sea level, look below: Feet Temp 0 212.0 500 211.1 1000 210.2 2000 208.4 2500 207.5 3000 206.6 3500 205.7 4000 204.8 4500 203.9 5000 203.0 5500 202.0 6000 201.1 6500 200.2 7000 199.3 7500 198.3 8000 197.4 8500 196.4 9000 195.5 9500 194.6 10000 193.6

Looks under wicked to me but I don't make palm candles.

Let's see: an ECO-6 has an ROC of 0.24, a flame height of 1.8", and a pool diameter of 2.6". HTP wicks are less aggressive in the pool diameters. If we come close to the ROC than I'd pick the HTP-1212. It has an ROC of 0.23, a flame height of 1.64" and a pool diameter of 2.09". The next size up would be HTP-1312 and one step higher would be the HTP-126. One size down from the 1212 would be HTP-105. Why the change?

Those sound great, what is Xmas tree and where does it come from?