HorseScentS

Hey, ChandlerWicks, where are you? I'm back and I need to discuss dipped TP with you Wow, didn't we go through pure D Hay-ull with those 20 oz Emma jars? I've been using the 4 oz and the 10 oz Emma jars successfully ever since. Hope you're doing well. :-)

OG, do you twist the Premier wicks to compensate for them curling to one side? That way the curl revolves around to face all sides of the jar. After I tighten my wicks in clothespins I turn the pins 3 or 4 times. I use HTP wicks which curl. I'd like to try Premier if I go back to testing 6006, or if I try Victory Blend parasoy.

Yeah, that definately sounds like a defective Presto. If you were frying chicken in it you wouldn't put up with splintery flakes. The store should exchange any pots that flake at any temp

OG, what a brilliant strategy for trimming the width to suit the bottom of the jar! Thanks!

Cool! I can't wait to try this. Thanks for the info everybody! I also give a pair of toenail clippers to each customer I bought a Brother P-touch labeler on sale for $9.00 at Staples. It prints black on clear tape, so I use it to print a humorous label to stick on the toenail clippers.

Gee, I've never had that problem. When I used the pour pot method I did ha e to heat my wax to at least 200 in the Presto to compensate for th e temp dropping when I transfered wax into my heated pour pot, but now I only heat my wax to 185 - 190 in my Presto and then add FO. I used to use my electric skillet to heat my pour pot and raise the wax temp as needed, but now I just set my candle jars in the skillet so they're warm when ladle wax into them. I remember someone posting that they use a metal strainer to pour their wax through.

I was surprised to see a new bigger model of our beloved Presto Kitchen Kettle in Walmart recently. It's a nice option between the Presto and the turkey fryer:http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/38468981?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228026951385&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=43324636952&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=82771732832&veh=sem For a long time I only used my Presto to melt wax, which I then transfered to my pour pot for color and scenting; but it took practice to manage the time and temperature during the mixing and pouring process, which to was very hectic and worrisome. Now I find it so much easier to do everything in my Presto and then laddle the wax into my jars. I doubt if I'll ever go back to the pour pot method. I find it even easier to wipe out my presto every time I change FOs than it was to clean my pour pot in between batches. I often melt just 1 or 2 lbs of wax in my Presto at a time for each FO I want to pour during a candle-making session. I keep a glass candy thermometer clipped to my Presto and only use my digital thermometer to double check the temp before adding FO. The whole process is more relaxing for me now.:-)

There's a new Presto Kitchen Kettle that's 60% larger: http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/38468981?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228026951385&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=43324636952&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=82771732832&veh=sem

When I first started I found this hard to believe, but after pouring you will have "candle nose," which can make it impossible to smell your candles for a couple of weeks.

We must also beware of the Streisand Effect. Google it. Lol

Thanks for trying to debunk the craziness! I've settled on Comfort Blend paraffin as my fav wax, but today am burning one of my old 6006 parasoy candles that I made when I first started pouring and I'm heck of impressed NOW with the HT and the quality of the fragrance. It's peanut butter and maple syrup in an 8 oz tureen with a 64 zinc.

With paraffin candles, if I'm not testing the candle but just burning it for my own enjoyment, I don't follow any rules about burn time, I just light it and extinguish it whenever I feel like it or need to leave the house, or fall asleep, etc, and I haven't noticed a problem.

A chandler who had her own candle shop, and worked exclusively with 6006, usually wicked the Dollar Tree 12 oz status jar with a 60 zinc, or sometimes a 62 zinc. Her candles were very strong, but she used 2 oz of FO p.p. which is 12%, and there was a little bit of oil seepage on the top of a few of her candles, I'd say one out of 20. Oil seepage is not safe because it could overheat and cause a dangerous flare up. I had to use at least 9% FO load in my 6006 candles to get a good HT, and I couldn't smell anything at all with just 1 oz p.p. 6% FO load. Be sure and use FO's that are known to throw well in soy, because 6006 is aprox 30% soy. I use 4627 now and it throws the best for me with only 6% FO load, so every wax is different in terms of which FO load works the best. It's important to get a timer or a clock with a sweep second hand so you can stir very thoroughly for 2 full minutes. Let cure for a week before testing.

Can you post a picture of the jar? If it's not approved for candle making it'll be a liability, so it's safest to get your jars from a candle supply.

In half-pint jelly jars with straight 4627 I use HTP 83 or 73. I love HTP's because they're self-trimming and throw a strong scent.

Hi, it's great to have you here!

The footed square jar is pretty, but I'm not sure it will work with 4627 because it's got slim shoulders like the Ball Elite jars, which didn't work for me with 4627, because there's not enough shoulder to trap the heat of a single wick and melt the sides, but there's enough shoulder to make the double wicks just drown.

For 6006 candles, I had to use at least 9% FO load, plus let them cure for a week since it's aprox 30% soy, plus stick with FO's that are known to work well in soy like from Candle Science, and I used zinc wicks. The colors will be pastel unless you use liquid dye that's more concentrated for soy, or use about twice as many drops of paraffin dye as you would for paraffin; you can get deep jewel tones and rich brights or dark colors with 6006.

Those are very pretty. I saw a lot of those at a local liquidator who bought out a San Diego chandler after they had storm damage or a fire or something. I was afraid to buy one in case they might overheat and flash into a big fire ball, so I'm glad to hear it's burning safely for you.

Awww...thanks! I bet a helpful soy chandler will have some good ideas for you about preventing wet spots. When you say you've tried cooling them under a "cooler," what is a cooler? Is it one of those styrofoam ice chests? Were the jars also sitting on top of something like cardboard to insulate the bottoms? I don't use soy, but to me a 68 degree room is too cold for candle making and would cool them too fast causing a lot of shrinkage and wet spots. But, that's a nice comfy temperature for you home, so rather than heat the whole house, I would cool the candles in a small room with a space heater that's heated the room to 80 degrees, preheat the jars in the oven to 170, remove jars and wait a minute to let them cool a bit, pour, and set the jars on top of an insulating material like a couple of pieces of cardboard so the table surface won't suck heat out of the bottom of the jars. If you make a small batch, you can heat your oven to 170 and then turn it off and put the candles in there to cool slowly. But, I'm sure the soy chandlers will have good ideas for you about wet spots too.

Maybe there's a cure for your wet spots. What kind of wax do you use? Do you heat your jars? What pouring temp? How do you cool them? What's the temp in your candle room? If that doesn't work, check post #61 by debratant. She posted a cool pic and directions for how to turn one of these pretty blue jars into a hand pump jar for lotion or liquid soap, so you can make your own scented soap or lotion. Or you can fill it with white scented crumbles for your melter and tie a wooden scoop around the neck. You might be able to find those solar mason jar lids and make them into pretty lamps, or find your own little LED light to glue into the bottom of an old fashioned lid: http://www.masonjarsolarlidlights.com/home/ They're kind of expensive, so maybe you can Google: wholesale solar mason lid. Here's a tutorial for making your own solar lid, and there are more tutorials if you don't like this one: http://www.familyhomeandlife.com/2012/03/mason-jar-solar-light.html Here's an easier tutorial for making your own solar lid: http://theprojecttable.blogspot.com/2011/12/mason-jar-solar-lights.html Oh, cool! This shows how to do it to a glass apothecary jar: http://boards.weddingbee.com/topic/mason-jar-solar-light-instructions#axzz2PfogGWZ9 Or if you're really ambitious, you can make chandeliers out of them! http://www.etsy.com/listing/122796971/vintage-aqua-mason-jar-solar-chandelier?utm_source=google&utm_medium=product_listing_promoted&utm_campaign=weddings_mid&gclid=CLSazv3WtbYCFQTznAodP0AAUw

If Wallyworld doesn't have the jars, just do what I did and call a few hardware stores, give them the item # for the jar, and ask them to see if their warehouse has the jars yet so they can order them for you. I posted the item # on one of the earlier pages of this thread. I love the pretty blue color because I once read an article about crafting that said if you want your product to sell, just make it blue with an animal on it.

I edited my post to delete something, but.... Gimme a "C" rah rah rah! Ahem.... :whistle:

Oh, pshaw! Mulberry Madness Rocks the Cazbah! I know your fave Mulberry is really good too, though, and I've been meaning to get some so I can give my Mulberry loving relative a choice. But MM is one of Cajun's best year-round sellers and I love it.

No, not even a spec of a fuel smell, they're perfect.