Wessex

Definately a way to justify sloppy candlemaking. Too lazy to test! Or just don't care. Either way, they should be kicked in the ass. As far as blowing out candles, thats what I do. I personally do not know anyone that uses a wick dipper. I'm sure 95% of your average candle user would not even know wick dippers exist, LOL. I don't have any candles that smoke or give off a smell when blown out (other than the second or two of slight smoke). Of course some wick types just do that (I'm looking at you evil hemp, LOL). Cheers, Steve

http://www.candlewic.com/store/Product.aspx?q=c35,p799

Um, 3 3/4 inches. Did you scroll down on the description page :smiley2:. If you wanted the width at top, the 12 oz is 3 inch. Cheers, Steve

I don't do tarts, but have remelted pillars and containers (Palm) to retest and have not noticed a big difference. I'm sure you might lose a bit. But if you are testing for scent throw, I would make a whole new batch. That way there are no unknown variables. If you are just using them for yourself, then go for it! Cheers, Steve

http://www.naturesgardencandles.com/ Nature's Garden has a huge selection and all of the ones I have tried are great quality. I second Candlescience, also. Not a huge selection, but great quality. Cheers, Steve

Why would it make you upset? Last time I checked, people can do lots of things for themselves. And, oh yeah, I helped my Grandfather build his own house. And neither of us are builders. Passed all inspections and is better built then most new houses today. Steve

Since wax is a solid, the label must be in a mass net weight, not fluid weight. Steve

I have been talking with Palm wax suppliers, and the minimum quantity I have been able to talk them into is 1 metric ton (2205 pounds). Price is very good. If I go with 14 MT the price is REALLY good! Of course it would be nice to drive a truck to them, LOL. Now just have to deal with customs, etc. Oh, and how long would it take to use a metric ton? A metric century, LOL! Steve

Oops, I haven't been putting the metric weight on my labels! Let them come and get me, LOL. Cheers, Steve

Net weight is the way to go. My 8 oz JJ hold 6.2, so I put Net Weight 6.2 ozs. Good example is the 12 oz Beanpot and 12 oz Status. Both are 12 oz, but one holds 9.0 oz and one holds 9.4 ozs. So thats how I label. HTH Steve

Using IE here and no problems. Maybe their work computer has a strong firewall setting or such. BTW, like the site, looks good. Just one suggestion - put tarts under their own heading and not under the soy candle heading? Oh, and you state that the tarts last 10-12 hours. I would go ahead and say they last 30 days and will scent your whole house. Oh, sorry, they aren't Scentsy Cheers, Steve

I use 2.5 inch rounds on the tops. Cheers, Steve

I have found that the percentage of FO definately can affect your burn on many FO's. I have several that I have to cut back on the FO to keep from sooting (wicking down doesn't get a good burn). Conversely, I have many FO's that I can increase the percentage and the burn stays the same. And of course there is the seepage problem if you go too far! Cheers, Steve

If this is the tumbler you are talking about, it seems to be at a good price here: https://www.earlyamericancandlesupplies.com/glass/8-5-oz-universal-candle-tumbler/prod_745.html Very thick glass, I like them and get very good burns and HT using Palm. Holds about 6.2 ozs when pouring to 1/2 inch below top (same as my 8 oz JJ). I have had issues with this company, so won't do business with them anymore (bubble wrap instead of case pack, always some breakage; did not notify me when something was discontinued, just sent partial shipment and left me in a bind). But is a good price and reasonable shipping if you are on east coast. HTH Steve

You can usually find pour pots at craft stores, but they are MUCH more expensive. As far as the wick you are using, let us know how it works. Palm wax is an acidic wax and there are specially coated wicks that are made for it (CSN from Candlescience and CDN from Just By Nature). But people have had luck with several different wicks (I have used LX, CD and even HTP with some success). I pour palm up to 195 degrees and have not noticed any loss of fragrance strength, so don't be afraid to go there. Just make sure your containers are prewarmed (both for best crystal formation and to avoid thermal shock on your glass). I am interested to see how palm burns in that type of container. HTH, Steve

Using 1 oz of FO to 15 ozs. of wax will give you 6% FO load (rounding up) in one pound of wax. You have to include the FO as part of the wax weight (if you need 16 oz of scented wax it would be 15 oz. wax and 1 oz. FO). As far as the pour pot, the two sizes I use are the 2 pound and 4 pound capacity ones (small and large). These are the standard sizes available everywhere. I would go with the larger one, it is easier to pour for me, even with small amounts of wax in it. HTH, Steve

Depends on how you use it, I guess. Seems like nowdays people are pretty jaded, so I think it would be fine. Cheers, Steve

Candlewic's palm waxes are not the "true" IGI products. They are similiar, but not the same as you would get elsewhere. The Container wax is not Glass Glow. Sorry. Cheers, Steve

I use GG and CSN's also. The main problem I was having was slight sooting on the tops of the containers at the end of the burn. Wick down and had hangups. Just need to tweek the amount of FO, I think. Was using it at about 7%, little high on this one. The status jar I went back to 6% (my usual amount) and it worked great with a double wick, less so with a single wick. But HT is good at 6%, so might tweek it a little bit less (5.5% or so), and hopefully that will get rid of the slight sooting. I run a papertowel with cleaner on it around the jar top after burning to see if there is any sooting that is not obvious. Of course I might just be way too anal on my burns, but oh so paranoid about getting the perfect burn. Cheers, Steve

I had done research on the NCA and IGCA a while back. NCA does seem to be just for big business like you said. And the IGCA has no standards for membership, anyone can join. I was thinking more along the lines of an organization where one would have to meet certain criteria for joining, such as completing some type of safety courses, ethics courses, knowledge courses, etc. It would be a pain to actually do anything along these lines, but one can dream, LOL. Cheers, Steve

A good idea might be a professional organization of some type for small business chandlers. Some sort of certification program involving learning candle safety, best practices, etc. But of course that could be opening up a can of worms that could spiral somewhere we don't want it to go. I did archaeology for many years before getting called back into the military for Iraq and Afghanistan. There is a Registry of Professional Archaeologists and a Society of Professional Archaeologist that have certain requirements to be a member. But membership does not make one a good archaeologist, and inversely, there are many great archaeologists that are not members. Sorry to go on a tangent. Cheers, Steve

Thanks for the suggestion Candybee. Sounds pretty good. You are SO feeding my FO addiction. I believe it was you that made the Vanilla Lace/Buttercream suggestion a few weeks ago? Of course I needed something to do with the Buttercream I had laying around, so...had to add the VL onto my weekly CS order and give it a try. Loved it! Already have it tested out on the 12 oz Status and working on some others (kinda a pain to wick). I am working on the FO addiction, but it is not going well, LOL. Thanks, Steve

Thanks guys for the suggestions. Love the Romanian idea! Never even thought about "faking" the name with a foreign translation, LOL. May have to try it for other FO's. Cheers, Steve

http://www.thecandlemakersstore.com/product/WAXSOY435A/Natural-SoyCotton-Blend-435-Wax-1-pound-bag.html

I don't do soy (yet LOL), so can't give you specific advise. But I believe most soy should be poured at around 100-110 degrees, the cloudy or slushy stage. You might want to use the search feature on the top navigation bar, I believe there is alot of info on this subject. Just put a phrase in the search box, with quotation marks around it. Should be able to get good info that way. Hope this Helps. Steve