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ProudMarineMom

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Everything posted by ProudMarineMom

  1. This. And, I think those higher in Olive Oil content sometimes seem slimy as well.
  2. TallTayl couldn't have said it any better. No reason for anyone to degrade either method of soapmaking. I started with M&P because of my hesitancy to handle lye but now do cold process. You can do amazing things with both mediums. I also agree about the lady not testing her first batch of soap before giving you a bar. I made quite a few batches before I even thought of giving them to someone else to try. And, then I only gave to certain testers and was very specific to have them tell me if they experienced any burning and such and to discontinue use immediately. But, I tried to make darn sure the batch wasn't lye heavy before doing so.
  3. Lard is from pig fat where as tallow is generally from beef. Tallow can also come from deer, bear, goat and sheep according to SoapCalc. Although, SoapCalc does also reference Lard as Pig Tallow. I guess I would be concerned about listing it as just tallow because of those that cannot have pork products.
  4. Thanks Barbara, thought that might be the case. DH would probably like though, he loves Cedar. Might actually get him to use a bar of my soap.
  5. Well, the saponified term would be Sodium Lardate....
  6. Barbara is back!! Glad your hand is healing well. The soap looks beautiful. How is Big Sur doing in the soap? I have a bottle, just haven't soaped it yet. OOB it was pretty heavy on the cedar and redwood. Hope the other notes come out in the soap. J
  7. The following information is from other discussions on the subject and from one person who talked to an FDA Officer specifically about soap labeling. Soap does not require an ingredient list on the label. However, like everyone else, I prefer to have the ingredients listed for those with allergies. { Ingredients can be listed one of two ways, Pre-Saponification (what went into the pot) or Post-Saponification (final product after reaction). Not a combination of both, however. So, a soap made with olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter, water, lye, lavender essential oil and kaolin clay would be correctly labled either: olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter, water, sodium hydroxide, fragrance, clay OR sodium olivate, sodium cocoate, sodium shea butterate, fragrance, clay (Fragrance is the recognized term but Essential Oil or the Latin Name can be used. Same with the Clay, Kaolin can be used.) Using 'Saponified Oils of' vs 'ates' - The FDA understands that the average consumer will not understand the chemical names, but Saponified Olive Oil is not in the dictionary while Sodium Olivate is, so the latter is preferred. Needing to use INCI Names and access to the dictionaries - (e.g. Butyrospermum Parkii instead of Shea Butter) - The common or usual ingredient names are required by law and still acceptable. However, the FDA does not currently object to using the ingredient names in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook. The FDA Officer was very informative and interested in making sure all soapmakers understand labeling requirements. He indicated that if there is enough interest, they may add a new page to their website specifically for soap labeling. } I have a tendency to use the INCI for my ingredients because it's required on B&B lables. But, I need to adjust based on the above. I like using the common terms. So, have to figure out if I want sodium hydroxide on the label. I really prefer the 'Saponified Oils of' but it's not actually correct according to the FDA. Labels still drive me crazy....
  8. Maybe you could make your own blend. You could probably get some great suggestions on the board if you wanted. There are some very creative people here. I found a website that has a Cade's Cove, makescentsco (add the www and the .com), but it sounds more like a tropical fragrance. Not at all what I would imagine as the scent of the beautiful Smoky Mountains.
  9. She mentioned the initials SS, which to me would be Southern Soapers. But, I've not seen it before on their site.
  10. Thank you for the OOB impressions. I've keep looking at the Chocolate Truffle but haven't ordered. Are you going to soap that one? Would be interested in how you like it. Polar Express sounds like a must-get as well. I haven't soaped Tassi Lavender yet (I really can't stand Lavender) but have used it in bath melts and salts. It's quite popular. A lady soaped it recently and said that was the one fragrance she could smell over all the other soaps. And, the scent sticks. Hopefully it will work well for you. J
  11. I picked up some Christmas Bliss on my last order since it seems to be popular. Have some burning in a warmer now. Me LIKE!!!
  12. ChrisR, have you tried the Pipe Smoke from AH? I think they came out with that a few months ago. Wondering how it compares to Sweetcakes. People actually like/buy soap that smells like sweet tobacco? I was unsure about trying to soap the one from AH. I like it but it seemed like a bit of a strange scent for soap.
  13. Look at Pipe Smoke from Aroma Haven. It reminds me going into a pipe shop and smelling the sweet tobacco. It's very nice. Don't know if there is enough Cherry, I can smell a little, so you might want to add a bit more.
  14. +100, one of my favorites from them. DH and SIL really like the Frosted Winterberry.
  15. Please take this for what it's worth from a lot of very experienced soapers on another forum. Please DO NOT use vinegar to neutralize the lye on your skin. It will just generate more heat and burn the skin more. The best thing is exactly what you did. Water, lots and lots of water. Flush for a good 10-15 minutes. I've read the same as every one else, use vinegar if you get lye or raw soap on your skin. But, after reading many stories and the pain or additional injuries caused by using vinegar, I'll stick with water. True, it's fine to add to the water for cleaning utensils or wiping down counters after soapmaking. But, not on your skin. Faithful, this brings up another good point when handling lye. We all know to have our goggles, gloves, etc. when mixing. But, it would probably be a good idea to at least have on gloves when opening a shipment of lye since you never know what might have happened during shipment. I'm going to be more mindful of this from now on. Thank you for sharing and I'm so glad your son is alright. I hope you at least contacted the supplier. That is not good.
  16. Sliver, I did grab the Tassi Lavender because it seemed to be the favorite for everybody. I personally can't stand Lavender but everyone else seems to like it. No Guns and Roses though, what kind of a fragrance was that? Chandler, I've had pretty good luck with those I have tried. Persian Limewood was very strong at .7 oz ppo and could probably cut back. Plus the others I mentioned above did very well. Now, I use Kaolin Clay in just about every batch, so maybe that is anchoring the scent for me. I've read that could help. Not why I use the clay but could be a nice benefit.
  17. No, they were starting to close when I first started crafting and I was focusing more on candles then. I didn't want to find a scent I liked then not be able to get it. I did join the Yahoo group when Denise took over. Don't remember getting the Yahoo notice either but I could have overlooked it. Oh well, I placed an order not too long anyway.
  18. Is she no longer doing a newsletter? I don't remember getting anything about the free shipping.
  19. So, which ones did you get? I'll probably be ordering the Acorn again in the next month or so and I can add some oils for you. Shipping to Alabama from Georgia shouldn't be all that expensive. I can send you a sniffie if you would like, see if you like the fragrance. Did you pick-up Big Sur to try? I grabbed that last go around but haven't tried it yet. OOB you can smell the cedar and redwood. I'm hoping the other notes come out in product. Have fun with your oils! J
  20. Wasn't a silly request, I just have not used the ones you are ordering. I have soaped several from SS and really like their fragrance oils. I can recommend Egyptian Dragon (excellent in melts as well), Persian Limewood (very strong in soap), Honey L'Occitane (beautiful in body butter, lotions, bath milk), and Wild Rose and Oak. The most popular for me is Acorn and Black Oak. It sounds like a masculine scent and it is. But, women love it as well. Something a bit unique, feminine and powdery is Maharani Paparadscha. I like it real well OOB but it changes in the soap. Some of the sweet notes seem to settle down quite nicely. Good luck with your order! J
  21. I use a blend of 464, Ecosoya PB with a little 4630 thrown in. I agree with others, 464 is a bit soft by itself as a wax melt but it does make a great tart. Find a pillar wax or other hard wax that you like and make a blend. Might have to play with the percentages a bit.
  22. Ok, I say we nominate Bfly for coming up with clever names. She has had some great ones tonight, Road to Glory, Twilight in Gettysburg, Grey Ghost, Love Letters.... Oh, that would be cute. With antique buttons or pieces of fabric....
  23. Wouldn't it be kinda cool to have a couple of perfume type fragrances, based on this concept, and create a little story card to go with the soap. Either from the viewpoint of the soldier talking about him and his girl or from the viewpoint of the girl.
  24. Judy, this is what I do as well. I just aim the pot at the middle of the clamshell and just let the wax run into the cubes and pour almost to the top. I get the drips from the pour pot, but that is about it.
  25. Bebe Collection, fairly inexpensive. You can do custom or use some of their stock designs. http://bebecollection.com/soap-stamps (acrylic) Lasercutz on Etsy, a little more than BeBe http://www.etsy.com/shop/Lasercutz (acrylic) I'm not sure how expensive their stamps are but there are people that just love them. The website is a bit confusing so it's easier to either email or call them to discuss. I think most people get the magnesium version and they need good artwork. http://www.owossographic.com/Home.aspx (magnesium)
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