PrairieDweller

What you did is called "seeding" or tempering of-sorts. Read up on the manufacturing of chocolate and what they do to combat all the issues we try to overcome. Ever seen the white, powdery film that forms on old or cheap chocolate? It is called "bloom"...happens because of the exact same reason it happens to us. Ever seen chocolate "sweat"? Same reason! Temp extremes will cause a good tempered chocolate to "frost" just like what happens with soy candles. Seen a Beanpod candle? NO frosting...unless they have been improperly stored or exposed to temp extremes. Their "tempacure" pouring method is that... they temper the wax before they pour it. They just so happen to have the money to have custom built machinery that does it for them, though I figured all this out long ago, but honestly, who the hell has time to put it into action? I'm not trying to take a month to make a batch of perfect soy candles lol I have "seeding" test samples out in the shop right now, months later that are still beautiful and frost free. That is adding cooler wax to the hot wax. Tempering is taking the entire batch...bringing it up to temp, then lowering. Just before pouring, take temp up a bit again. Do you remember the movie "Chocolate"? Remember when she poured out the chocolate onto the marble counter and kept smearing and folding it? She was tempering it... chocolate cools faster on marble. The chocolate is then scraped back up, reheated and then poured. Fine chocolate is tempered in this way. Read up on tempering and seeding chocolate. You will find many answers. You hit the nail on the head, so to speak :highfive:

ROFL how do you REALLY feel, tho? I hear ya! Hang in there, really. If you can offer soy candles like your other products, they'll sell like wildfire. I suppose you have said somewhere down the line, what wax you use (meltpoint is an issue)...pour temp? Amount of fragrance oil? Am pm'ing you also

true Burgundy = Red + Black. Try 7 parts red to 3 parts black Red + Brown is more of a cinnamon or brick red-brown. I think most call this color Maroon. A gorgeous plum is black and magenta

Yes, you have to label all candles with their net candle weight, as it is deemed a "consumable" good. I used to have the link handy to the FPLA site (fair product labeling) but can't find it right now. It's not necessary to list size... but actual weight of the product that will be consumed (ie: don't include glassware) HTH

If I remember their sugar cookie right, WYW's Biscotti is dead on

Yes you certainly can...just need the right dyes. Powders are killer strong and only a dab will do you to get true, dark colors. Extremely hard to control, however and they cannot be weighed with any kind of affordable scale. There are also some liquids out there that will do it.

You sound SO much like me! I much prefer to be unseen and unheard...just let me alone in my shop. Unfortunately, the world won't come to you, you have to go to them I am happy with web sales, though local representation is nice and stores usually love the idea of a locally made, quality product. I do exactly what you are doing.. write it up in a word document and practice what you'll say and things you'll point out. You will be FINE and she WILL be nice. Your products look awesome! I believe you will wow her.

Soy may 'require' a heavier scent load but it is not meant to take it. Follow your manufacturer's instructions on oil load capacity. Unless and until there is an additive that works in soy to help hold the oil in safely, follow the mfr rec's. I've seen the tops of natural wax candles catch fire due to heavily loaded fragrance (one brand name I will not mention)...twice! Soy is shortening...it's a FOOD. For candle use, the stability isn't there for us to push limits. There ARE oils out there you can use at 6% and under. You are going to find alot of duds in your tests to find them though. Keep searching! There is no one supplier that will have them all. ie: WYW oils, some I can use at 2%...some 4% and again, some at 6%. I have found several from WYW that won't throw for squat for me even at 6%, however. I pay anywhere from $14/lb-$30/lb ..my avg cost per lb is somewhere around $22. Out of 10 samples I test, perhaps 1 or 2 may pass. They are out there and it is possible tho

top...that's what I figured, too. I wondered if the attempt to duplicate was made in the same carton (wax would of melted off already)...or perhaps a 2nd try in another carton was not poured quite as hot to melt the wax lining. Hawaiian, that is an awesome looking pillar. Palm accepts color so well and I love the pattern!

Awww man, that bites! lol By chance did you try to duplicate it by pouring into the same carton?

5%... soy oil, no fragrance

barncat isnt' kidding. I purposely STOPPED using red "fragile glass" stickers on my boxes, it was that bad

That is one WICKED looking candle, Devra!! Totally a Halloween pillar ...how did you pour that gave that effect, exactly if you don't mind my asking?

to get rid of purple tones, you need to add the color opposite it on the color wheel (yellow). It acts as a neutralizer and does not lighten the black.

to topofmurrayhill.... It is the "foamy" looking tape..just like the wick stickum look. The backing is a green plaid. You won't be sorry if you try it

IF the air pocket is small enough, the melted wax would just run in and fill it, you are right. But a larger pocket will cause the wick to weaken and eventually drown out. ebarnes, if you do decide to try my test, do it to the fullest extent to show you true results. Pour a case (12) of jelly jars cool and dig for the air pockets, using a heatgun and a wire pic (can use a piece of coat hanger with a hook bent into the ends. Bend both ends due to comfort of holding one end and the other end to help open the pockets so you can fill). In answer to your original question which I totally strayed from.. It takes my presto approx 1/2 hr on 200 to melt fully. You can add time in the beginning... or at the end, it's your choice. Good luck... sounds like a nice order!

I doooo, yes. But IMO it's worth it. Trade one evil for another kind of thing. By now, soy has become a household name and consumers have learned to "appreciate" the frosting that either comes with the candle or later appears. Beeswax does the same thing and the market for beeswax is definitely there.

I've been pouring soy exclusively for 7 yrs and hate HATE pouring slushy. OMG I can't stand the wait! When soy first came available to us, the rec's were to pour hot. Someone, somewhere a few yrs back had the idea pouring cool helped in the cosmetic appeal. Now I see people say it is "necessary" or that pouring hot is "wrong"... NAH! It is not necessary... it is merely a preference and it takes no more time to go back and fix cosmetic flaws and air pockets with a heatgun than it does to sit and wait on pot after pot of wax to cool to just the right slush before pouring. I can tell you.. many, many tests have I tried pouring cool, slushy & hot. I found air pockets under the surface of EVERY candle poured hot, nearly every with cool and an avg. of 5 out of 12 on ones poured at slushy stage. I figured if I had to rip into each and every candle anyhow to CHECK for air pockets...might as well pour hot and be done with it LOL Who cares about a smooth top and less frost when the candle is full of air?? I pour between 160-170. When candles are set up completely, I take the heat gun and a wire hook (like a crochet hook) and poke through the surface as it is melting ... when an air pocket is found, the pic just sort of "falls through". I then open it up and melt/fill it in. No matter what temp you pour, try this and see how many air pockets you find. If a customer is burning your candle and the flame hits that air pocket, they will not be back for another. Most pockets are near the wick and 1/4" - 1/2" under the surface, so check well! Keep in mind through your testing, should you try this, that a hotter pour requires a hotter wick, as your burn rate will slow. A candle poured 70 degrees hotter needs a hotter wick. I use a cd 16 on the avg. scent in an 8oz jelly jar if that helps you. sorry for the long-winded post, just wanted to give another observation

I tried the wick stickums and they sucked for me. Went to Steve's (candlemaker's store) brand (much better!) but pricey. I now use 3m mounting tape. Buy it at staples in a HUGE roll. Just cut off a foot or so, tab it, cut them apart and wallah and the stuff won't loosen! This is absolutely the best adhesive/quick method I've found...and comes out price effective since I can just run and pick it up rather than pay shipping. If you try this, get the 3m brand! I have tried cheaper brands and they do not hold up.

My boyfriend is also a candlemaker and lives in NJ (I'm in IN)... he flies out every weekend and almost always brings pillar candles with. He wraps them well in large bubble wrap and stuffs them in his carry on. They scan them and that's that. Not sure if you're worried they won't let you through or the heat or? But I think carry on limit is 50lb? Depending on how much other things you stuff in the bag, it may just not be worth it.

I have used this site to make my own banners and headers for many years. It is FREE and totally customizable: http://www.bannerzrusgraphics.com/ You can make your own so easily and can upload graphics you have or use theirs.

PS... checked out your website, it is AWESOME. Love your labeling/packaging and product concepts. Very unique...hope business is booming!

You might TRY a square braid wick. Typically, these wicks are more for pillars and tapers, but I love them in my larger container. I use a #2 sq braid.

mottling is the extra oils migrating out of the wax, taking dye with. You literally overload the wax beyond its capability. I LOVE the way a mottled candle looks but honestly hate the way they burn. Anyway, top is correct...ANY amount of additive, including transferance of just a HINT of vybar, will affect mottling, so make sure your wick bars, molds and pour pots are spotless. I have heard the M38 is a good mottling wax as well, though have not tried it myself.

Glue sticks are cheaper lol I've always wondered the same thing.. why all? It has been years since I've used paraffin and these additives, though I did try both. I seem to remember the luster crystals being white in color, so it would obviously give a more opaque finish. The clear crystals are just that...did the exact same thing as the luster, but enables the natural translucency of the wax to remain. I don't know who would use these types of additives unless they were into fussy finishes. I didn't find them useful for my needs but had to try them out just because!