Firefly

Hello, I've been making 90% soy candles with 10% veggie blend usually in 2/3 oz shallow or 2/4oz deep tins. A few night ago I tried one with 90% soy and 10% veggie blend using an HTP wick and a 3" deep glass tumbler that is about 2" in diameter. I used EO's at 7% and then stearic at 5% (read that somewhere on some site). When I lit the candle it had a burning smell that wasn't pleasant and I can't smell the fragrance at all. I wanted to see if this would help scent throw and allow the candle to burn longer. What percentage of stearic should I be using? If I try coconut oil what percentage of that should I try?

Does anyone use stearic acid or coconut oil with their soy wax? I used to make 100% soy candles, then tried 98% soy and 2% veggie wax. Then I made a candle the other day with 90% soy and 10% veggie wax and now want to experiment with additives like coconut oil and stearic acid. Two nights ago I made a candle with 90% soy and 10% veggie wax and then used 5% stearic (read that on justbynature site) and 7% essential oil blend. Well I'm burning it now and it doesn't smell at all, when I first lit it there was this kind of smokey smell for about 10 minutes. Anywho I can't smell any fragrance at all. So if using stearic what percentage would you recommend? If using coconut oil what percentage would be a good amount to try? I'm trying to get better scent throw in my candles especially when using essential oils.

Those are fantastic and they look amazing cut.

Thanks for posting this as I want to switch my body butter jars but the ones I want to use can't have any water in them so this will be perfect. This recipe looks great and I too want to use 100% soy flakes which I have (well I have the tiny pellets). So those who used soy flakes did you just put the amount of soy flakes in place of the soy skin butter or did you add anything else?

Nice mold and I love the colours of the bar and the nice pattern you made.

Ditto, I'm dying to see the cut photos. You are torturing us.

I've made it and use 20% in my recipe and it worked out fine. It does trace fast but have everything ready and you will be prepared for it. Also I didn't stick blend at all which gave me a bit more time. My soap turned out great.

Hello, Thanks for the nice compliments. The bottom on the blue was supposed to be navy and then was going to have a white top layer but I still like how it turned out. The other side of the bar is all blue. Here it is bevelled:

Thanks, I'd like to try it at once but I want to do three layers. I did it a few years back and got the three layers but they weren't even and I don't remember how I did it. Maybe I'll try it both ways and see what happens.

That looks fantastic and I love that blue colour. It pops.

This is my newest soap for men. It's a custom blend of French vanilla, bergamot, orange, lemon and lime with floral hints of jasmine, and lavender with warm bottom notes of wood and musk. Looking forward to seeing this one unmolded.

Wow, the pictures of the log are to die for and the cut version looks wondeful too. What does it smell like? I'm not familiar with that FO. Is it floral, fruity, woodsy?

CareBear, Thanks for the input. I think what I'll do it try both out and see what happens and post results here. SAO isn't one I always use as I know people have nut allergies but sometimes I get a good deal on it. I read all the posts on the QuietGirl link and everyone had rave reviews so am looking forward to trying it.

Hello and welcome. I'm new myself and I too have been thinking about making lard soaps. I've always made vegan because that's what people want but I've tried lard soap that was given to me by another soaper and loved it. I'm thinking of offering maybe just 1 or 2 in lard to see how it will go in the future.

Hello, I too absolutely love the colours. Are they FD&C colours? Fantastic, I just want to reach into my monitor and smell them all.

Hello, I have a tried and true base recipe (that includes palm oil) I like that I've tweaked here and there without problems. Just ran out of palm oil last night and so have lots of soybean shortening (I bought it awhile ago and it's a veggie mix but I didn't keep the box it came in so have no idea exactly what that combination is), rice bran oil, some almond oil, jojoba oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, olive oil, sunflower oil. This is the recipe I came up with and wondered if it's alright? I ran it through soap calc. 17% almond oil 20% rice bran oil 20% coconut oil 20% palm kernel oil 20% soybean veggie shortening 3% castor oil Thanks to CareBear for posting a link to QuietGirl's recipe as I may try that one instead but will sub the safflower for almond and olive for Rice Bran oil. QuietGirl mentions palm kernel flakes which I've never used and I'm guessing palm kernel oil is the same thing.

I'm not a mica expert and I've used Mica's a few times and will tell you the way I use them. For measuring the mica's I use two different types of scoops (either a .15cc scoop or a 1.25 cc one which is about 1/4tsp, I got both mine form the Sage but they only carry the smaller ones now). Then I add my soap to my mica colour if I'm doing a swirl to a separate cup and would start with a 1/4 tsp amount. It all depends what your soap colour is to begin with (ie. if you used pomace olive oil, if you use titanium dioxide to whiten) and it depends on the colour of your mica if it's an intense or light shade. So I would add my 1/4 tsp mixed with a bit of oil to the half cup and stir (I like to soap at lower temps of 80 degrees so I have time to swirl etc.) and then add more mica mixed with oil if it isn't enough and I would swirl with that once I'm satisfied on colour. In your case 1/3 tsp wasn't enough so I would up it next time to maybe 1/2 or 3/4 of a tsp. The colour will change if you do it in the oven or you gel your soap on a counter covered with blankets. To keep colours really true you can make soap in the fridge or freezer for 24 hours then take it out and let it sit for a day and then unmold. For me the fridge method is the best for keeping the colour similar to how it looked when I poured it. Hope this helps but I'm sure others will weigh in. There probably is a typical ratio of how much mica to add per amount of soap but I always wing it and then try to remember to take notes.

I just started soaping with shea this year and use a small amount and absolutely love it. I've only used the unrefined type and it just feels so luxurious and creamy. Not all my soaps have shea butter in them and I'm almost out so have been trying mango butter, wheatgerm butter, monoi and they all work well for me. It's a personal preference thing too. Try maybe a test batch for yourself to see what you think.

Thanks for the welcomes. Oh I still have lots to learn and I'm learning all the time. Already I've learned so much just looking at all the different forums on here. This place is addictive.

Okay I found this link here by searching so I'll read through all the post first as my answer is probably there. This is the link: http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72310&highlight=layered+soap

wildscreek, You will have a blast making soap for sure and will soon be dreaming about it. That is handy being married to a fireman in case of any hazards. CareBear, I have a custom mold from soaphutch that is too big for my freezer and I just put all my soaps in the fridge for about 16-24 hours and then take it out and let it sit for a day or two (who am I kidding I can never wait that long but it's something I'm working on) and then unmold them. I've had no problems with the fridge method. It's my favourite way to make soap unless I'm in a rush then I do the oven method or M&P.

I too normally use TD to whiten my soaps but want to try Carrie's suggestion (thanks) as well as I have soybean oil.

How do you make a perfectly layered soap where it's perfectly straight between the first and second layers. Do you make it all at one time or make one layer one day and then make the second layer the next? A few years ago I tried a layered soap and just poured one layer and let it thicken, then poured the 2nd layer and let it thicken. The line between the layers wasn't smooth though. Is there a trick to this?

I shrink wrap my M&P and CP soaps as well. Then I put a clear label on the front with the name (sometimes I do soap sleeves) and then a clear label on the back with all the ingredients. In the future I'd like to try leaving both ends open somewhat so people can sniff and I don't need to provide samples but I can't seem to get the hang of it with shrink wrap.

The colours on that are great, you did a wonderful job.