Jeana

Even their small buttons are so large when I add them to my website, so I would actually just like to have the words "buy" or "view cart" instead of buttons. They also don't really match the look of my website either. In the custom button section they ask for an http// address so that is where I am getting hung up. Not sure what to put there.

I would like to get away from using their "add to cart" buttons and their view cart button. Can anyone help me with this please? I see the option where to make the changes for a custom button, but not sure from there. And like all other customer service these days, it is impossible to get a real person to speak with.

Here is what it looks like.

I'm sure it was the fact that I used flax seed oil. Every time I have used that oil it messes up my soap. I could have backed off the FO too. It is honeysuckle and really strong. I'll look for the actual recipe. Would you guys still sell it? Like I said it a feels great, nice bubbles, and looks good. It is even a hard bar, it is just kind of oily when you pick it up.

I really need some help with this one. I don't usually have trouble making my own labels, or coming up with a design, but these are kicking my butt. Everything I've tried so far looks cheap and handmade. I even thought about going with custom labels but so far it seems like they are way out of my price range. Anyone use shallow tins, if so, would you be willing to share how you label them? Or can anyone recommend an inexpensive label printer?

I have a batch of soap that has cured for about 2 or 3 months. It is very oily still. I've had new soaps a little oily but after cure the oiliness goes away. This one is a good soap, nice bubbles and all, but it bugs me how oily this is. Has anyone else had this happen? If there isn't anything else wrong with it, is it a big deal to sell it? It was an experimental recipe that I won't be using again.

HTP might work but I wouldn't think lx will. I have never found lxs to work well with EOs. I still think the ECO 16 at CS would have been a good candidate. I have some EO candles that only ECO or HTP work in. I just got my patchouli blend right by using a smaller container. I'm using an HTP 126 in an 8 oz jelly jar. Sounds like it would be huge but it is doing great all the way down. So if you can't get the wicks to work in that container, try going with a little smaller container for that scent. Also can't candles and supplies or wickit send you a sample of cd 24 to see if they would work?

Do they even go that high? I've never seen them on anyone's charts. You may want to try an Eco 14 or 16, they are very good for hard to wick scents. CSN 22 & 26 are strong wicks too. All of these can be found at candlescience.

My favorite is mixing Very Vanilla and Ancient Sandalwood, both from CS. I haven't smelled the other suggestions to compare it to though. It holds up great in CP (sells well), does great in paraffin candles, but haven't tried it in soy yet.

Do you mean what brand of FO is it? It was from Issaquah. It is just called "Musk" I've had it for a while and don't really know what to do with it. I'm open to any suggestions

I have a plain white musk FO. It is a nice smell but seems a little boring and actually may be too light to stay for long in CP. Can anyone recommend something to blend with musk to make a good scent for a soap?

I did mine. I wanted to make sure I wasn't using anyone else's name too. And, of course to try to keep someone from using mine. Now that I am selling again, I am meeting a lot of people new to the industry, they typically will comment on how much they like my business name. This is when I am glad I took the time and money to trademark my name. I did it myself. If you follow every thing the way they say, it takes about 5-6 months to have it entirely yours.

Peaks is very good about knowing this info about their oils if you give them a call.

I get this a lot. Save yourself some time and get a strainer. I have the metal one with very close mesh. Like this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strainer Just out of habit I strain every batch now. I use it when I am pouring the lye/water into the oils. Makes it much faster and makes sure it is totally free of undesolved lye pieces. I'm the same way with my animals. I like them all outside if I'm making soap. We have a really old cat that jumped on the counter when I was making soap one time. Her tail dipped into the oils (plain, no lye yet) she freaked out and oil was everywhere. I am so greatful that it wasn't the lye she got into, I would have felt so bad. But now everyone goes out before I start.

Well you could do the boxes for your rounds. Here is the link. I think the first one on the left would work if you are using the pvc molds to make them. http://www.elementsbathandbody.com/Soap-Boxes-c-168.html They are very nice boxes, but I don't know if I want to invest in hundreds of them.

I just spotted some nice kraft soap boxes with cut outs to see the soap. I'm considering switching to these for packaging. Right now I tie my labels around the soaps. most of the time they are fine, but every once in a while they get bent or fall off. Then it is a hassle to deal with them. Round soaps are the worst for labels falling off. So the question is, are soap boxes better to package with? Darn I just noticed I missed the buy one get one sale they had on these boxes too. Figures

If you do a search on here for "essential oils" you'll find quite a few threads. Just a couple days ago there was a discussion on this. http://craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83462 Here is the recent thread. Lots of places are in this one.

I only use EOs in my bath salts. I would love to find a way to add a vanilla to my line, but I don't want to use FO. Can I use infused vanilla beans? Is the scent strong enough? I have tried Balsam Peru (sp?) and it is vanilla-ish, but I would like something either warmer or sweeter smelling.

Misbehavin looks really cute and fun.

I've had good results with ultra marine violet. I prefer powders to color salts. Clays work well too. You need very little, and they don't morph, at least with EOs they don't. They don't color the water either.

It reminds me of something you could get with alkanet root until you add the lye/water. Then it turns to a more grey/blue purple. Not what I am looking for. I just ordered some colors from TKB not too long ago, of course I didn't get the grape pop or the blueberry pop Seems every purple I get morphs into a muddy color, rather than this bright cheary one. Oversoyed - that must have been really disappointing, getting green when you wanted purple.

Could anyone tell me how to achieve this pretty purple in CP? http://www.gracefruit.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=1671 I'm talking about the top right picture of three soaps. I tried to email them but their anti-spam codes are impossible to decode. The picture transitions to one of flowers, then goes back to the soaps.

Hi Karen, I have a blend that is mostly 464. My containers are smaller like yours. I have been getting some really good results from Performa wicks. http://www.bittercreek.net/ I get the best throw from these. I was using cd, cdn, and eco. But it would be hit or miss for HT. I know you are trying to stay with candlescience, but this may be worth looking in to. They are in WI. Also HTP are good in 464 but they aren't at CS either.

They have a few good prices too. And they are one of the few people who carry cassia at a reasonable price. I've ordered peppermint and lemongrass from them before. They were quality oils so I would order from them again. But I wouldn't order all of my oils from them. Even though they have some good prices, their prices can still be high on some of the oils. Beau's mama, I used to order most of my supplies from OBN, but now they are always out of stock when I need something. Like the pink grapefruit you mentioned, they are out of that now.

Your welcome