PurpleHippie

Thank you for replying but I didn't state that I wanted to eliminate the salt only reduce the amount. I will make sure to keep the baking soda and CA ratios correct, thanks for that tip.

If I want to reduce the amount of salt used in a bath bomb recipe do I smiply increase that amount in all of my other dry ingredients or should I just up one like maybe the baking soda?

Awesome!!!

Don't know if this will help you but I read that one of the reasons people like the older version of Paint Shop better is because it seems to load or move faster. Plus I read that the newest version has caused several people system to crash.

Very pretty, and my favorite color!!!! How much stearic do you use?

I'm still learning with this Palm so forgive me if this is a silly question but other than the oily feel what's wrong with the candle? It looks ok to me.

Ok, so some are poking relief holes only after the final layer is poured and others are poking holes for each layer. Does it make a difference? Pam and JudyVega your candles are very pretty. I would be pleased to make candles 1/2 as nice as yours are. Good work!!!

So I poke the relief holes after I pour my very last layer then do a final pour? This may be a silly question but...my final pour should be the color of the last layer I poured or does it matter? I am just wondering if lets say the candle is yellow and blue and the last layer is blue. If I were to poke relief holes then do my final pour in blue would the blue be visible in the yellow layer?

I've been trying to make Rustic pillars and would like to try one with different colors. I know that the second layer should be poured at 10-20 degrees hotter than the first so that the two stick together. So that would mean that the third layer would also be poured 10-20 degrees hotter than the second? Let's say the first was poured at 150, so after it has set up a bit but not totally cooled I would poke relief holes and pour the second color at 160-170(10-20 degrees hotter than the first). Last step would be to pour the final color at 170-180 which is 10-20 degrees hotter than the second? Would pouring this hot make the candle not have a Rustic look on the layers that were poured hotter? Also, do I poke relief holes again after the second layer is poured?

No, sorry Kay I don't think that was is right either. You should just send it to me and I'll try to find some use for it. Just joking, it's lovely!

I was told 4 inches are larger but I find when I get past 3 1/2 with soy or parasoy it gets more difficult. I have wicked containers with one very large wick that got as hot as two smaller wicks, just depends on the wick. Actually, tins got the hottest more so than glass JMO. I can't remember which site it was but there was information posted about a regulation for what the max. temperature the outside of the container should reach. If I find it again I'll post.

JMO but it was too soft for tarts and oddly it really did not give a good throw from the wickless!! Which is odd to me! Maybe I can mix it with another wax and use for tarts and wickless just so it won't be a totally loss.They did an excellent job of totally messing this wax up. I would even have to do a repour because it now sinks. In the past this was always described on their site as a one pour. I'm not doing a repour for a what is suppose to be a one pour. I am sorry this happened to others but I am glad to hear that I'm not alone. Does that make sense? I was really disappointed by the way customer service handled this problem. It wasn't treated like a concern by the person I spoke with at all. Some of the basic question I asked seemed to stump them so I got the impression that they never actually made candles. Maybe it was someone filing in for someone and they didn't normally work in that department but I got the same treatment when I e-mailed the company. Even if you don't make candles it isn't a far stretch of the imagination to understand how this would cause a major problem for someone in their business. Starting all over with testing a new wax takes a lot of time and haults production of your current stock. Well, live and learn! It was obvious that my business was not important to them so they loss me as a customer for good. Even if the wax goes back to the way it once was I can't count on them not to do this again. Plus I just don't appreciate the service I received. I went back to paraffin. No wax is perfect but I never had these problems with J50 and J223 and I used both for several years.

I like that one OOB and I think it will be awesome in some B&B but I can't get it to give a strong throw in wax. I've tried soy, parasoy and straight paraffin with several different types of wicks at different % of FO. All produced light scent throw. Light for me and my testers. It's still a great FO and I look forward to using it in other products just not candles. It may be strong enough for you, good luck!

Since the pillar doesn't burn any scent will be from the tea light. As far as scent goes with the tea lights, that is strickly up to you. You can use either. If you make your own tea lights you will know exactly how hot they get. I have never been a fan of the store bought ones.

The information on the packaging has Modified Starch Tapioca Starch. It was probably a little less than 1 tablespoon of product. I just bathe as usually, no extra rinsing. Certainly something I will keep in mind if using this product. Maybe others would be sensitive or alergic to it also. I don't think many people would take extra care to rinse after soaking in a bath so I am just a bit concerned about using it in other products.

I am sorry this happened to you. It's never pleasant to deal with people like that but it's especially difficult when it is a friend or neighbor. You want to keep things on a friendly bases with neighbors because, well you live near them. You are going to see them almost every day and it's rough to be on the outs with a person living so close to you. However, you have learned a valuable lesson "Business is business." You are trying to make a profit and not giving your items away. She has taken advantage of you and it sounds like she will continue to do so if allowed. I would simple show up at her door and tell her I am there to pick up the warmer. Right then and there!!! I wouldn't give her any warning in advance that I am coming to her house. It may sound rude but I wouldn't give her another chance to have something "accidentally" happen to the merchandise. She hasn't paid you for it so she has nothing to lose. I would also tell her I have to get in touch with the manufacture and see what there policy is for a replacement and leave it like that. Personally, I wouldn't want her business in the future because she sounds like the type that you are always going to have some sort of hassle with. Either for payment or her using products then finding something wrong just to return it. I'd put her off whenever possible unless she shows up with cash in hand. She has alot of nerve asking for another warmer! That just proves that she is the type to keeping pushing it until someone won't tolerate her behavior any longer. I would tell her yes she can have another warmer( AFTER I picked up the one she hasn't paid for yet)but I have to put in my order by such and such date and I'll need your money in by _______dead line BEFORE I order. If I don't have the money I can't order it! No excuses tolerated! JMO and I hope that didn't sound too harsh! You sound like a good neighbor and it's ashamed that you were taken advantage of. Don't let that stop you from continuing to be a good neighbor to others:smiley2:

It has been a while since I made them. I use to be in an area that had low humidity so it was easier then. Alot of it depends on the recipe used. I think the great big ones are visually appealing to some folks. However, when I made them a large meatball size was all I needed to create a lot of bubbles and get my skin nice and soft without being greasy. After I got people to try them and see that they didn't need a huge softball size they were usually very pleased. Plus, I just felt that a great big one was way too much product to be soaking in for us girls, if you know what I mean:wink2:

When I use any type of bath product(soaks and such)that contain Natrasorb the skin on my legs itches like crazy. Especially the back side:embarasse . Anyone else have this problem?

Those are so pretty!!! I like the purple best:wink2:

I had over 100 lbs! A total waste!!!

That's the same attitude I got from them when I told them about the problem. Not that it matters to them at all but they lost my business. There are a lot of candle suppliers out there so thank heavens I don't have to put up with that poor service.

This is JMO but Joy use to be one of the best waxes I had ever used. A great one pour, colored nicely, not really a problem to wick...I used it for the candles I sell. I tested it for a couple of months with all of my FO's and got the wicking just right. Used Joy for awhile and ordered my usual wax stock, made my candles for sale and tested one as I always do. Big mistake right there, I should have only made one and then did a test. I just got so comfortable with the wax always being the same that I didn't think about possible problems. I should have known something was wrong because the wax even looked different. I had sink holes and the worse wet spots I have ever had with a wax. The cold throw was ok but the killer was when I tested and my previously tested wick suddenly didn't create a full melt pool. I tested another candle and another... Nothing was working like it had in the past. I reported the problem to the supplier and was told that it could be expected! :mad: Maybe in their business it could be but not in mine. I can't have customers waiting around while I start all over again. Not long after that I saw they a message up on their site about not taking refunds and that the wax can be expected to change sometimes. So I scrap the wax and start all over with a new wax. Hoping things had changed I tested again and I think it is even worse. The wax use to be a really good product but I don't have time or money to keep wasting on it anymore.

When testing the same scents using the LX, HTP, Eco and zinc I always got the best scent throw from the zinc using that wax.

My favorite as far as smelling like what I had in mind for a Pomegrante is the Pomegranate and Pear from Peaks. I did have a problem getting it to throw in soy. It need a long cure time before I really detected a decent throw. In paraffin I had better luck but it still benfit to cure it a bit longer. Oddly I did not get an sort of a throw from Daystar's Pomegrante in soy or paraffin. Good scent out of bottle and would be nice in B&B but didn't work in wax for me.

I've tried that but some how I always manage to get some of the melted wax to overlap onto the top(visible sides)of the votive.:undecided