R.S.

I once mixed feathering palm with crystallizing palm. No crystallization whatsoever.

Yeah, they aren't the best oils in the world, in my opinion. However, their Chocolate Truffle is to die for. Chocolate and Butterscotch. mmmmmm and throws well.

I am testing this theory out right now. Haven't had a chance to test hot throw but I noticed this....

Normally I'm making one or two candles because I'm still in testing mode (a year later, lol). Always with cauliflower tops that require a heat gun. Tops on a small batch are always uglier than a large batch which I have attributed to a faster cool, just because of volume of wax.

I've been heating up the oil and noticed the tops are smoother. Just coincidence? maybe, but I'm liking what I see sort far.

Have you made something like this before?

Just curious how someone would light the candle as it got close to the bottom of the jar?

I like the concept but unsure of it's practicality. How would the flame perform towards the end of the candle?

I searched the forum and didn't see this specifically addressed anywhere...

I have been adding my FO in CB135 at about 180 degrees and certainly getting some hot throw.. but of course would always like better.

When I pour my FO in to the 180 degree wax, it is always at room temperature, and the temp of the combined wax and fo drops to about 150 rapidly. Might this be affecting hot throw because fo isn't binding fast enough?

Does anyone use a candle warmer or some other device to heat FO up before adding to soy wax?

Has anyone noticed a difference in hot throw by doing this?

TIA

I am reordering Amish Harvest and Downy Fresh, tried the Casaba Mist, Black Rasp Van, and Meddit. Fig, Red Currant, VAnilla and Amber and Blackberry Sage. What else do I need to fill a sampler pack for 100% soy? Need some fall/xmas scents!

Cranberry Citrus is wonderful as is Vanilla Hazelnut.

Candlewic's and Peak's both good. This is one of those scents where every company's oil seems to throw. Hard to go wrong here.

So are you adding the fragrance oil before the wax is melted? That's what I understood from your description, and you may be evaporating some of the fragrance during the manufacturing process.. which you obv don't want to do. Try melting the wax, getting it to the proper temperature, take the wax off the heat source, and THEN add the fragrance oil. The cure time above is also important.

I haven't done a palm layered, but I would think you would absolutely want to let it cool completely so that the colors don't bleed together. (They still might anyways, but not sure).

a 50lb case of wax to Texas was $40 shipping

You will order red dye and put a very small quantity in, and it will come out pink. My preference was liquid over chips.

I have ordered some. Customer service was fine, I didn't find their oils to be anything special. I don't have anything bad to say about them, just don't have anything good to say either.

Thank you stella. I will try those tips.

I washed the containers and it didn't help, I had the same problem. I asked CS about it and they said they hadn't heard of the problem before, but really didn't have any solutions.

Yeah, silly question so I appreciate all your responses. I just got to thinking last night after all my testing and now thinking about adding beeswax I'm not 100% pure soy anymore. How can I even call it an all natural candle if I'm using Fragrance oil that has been chemically created??? Have I been inhaling too many fumes???

Correct, you can say your candle is made with natural wax, but you can't say your candle is natural because of the FO and dyes.

Any company that sells palm wax would be glad to sell you 10 pounds. There are NUMEROUS so check for some company close to you. You can use the same FOs that you use for Paraffin, I'm not familiar with gel so don't want to say anything about those.

I don't think you can call the "candle" 100% anything, since you have fragrance oil in it. I think you can call your "wax" something reasonable, but not 100% soy in this case. I like the "100% all natural wax" description.

Thanks for the warning. I'll keep that in mind. I guess you haven't found one you like

No I haven't.

I do NOT recommend Brookstone. I did not like it at all, and it didn't throw well.

Peak's Vanilla Hazelnut is awesome as well in CB135

Can anyone recommend some good throwing (in soy) herb fo's. Maybe something with like basil or rosemary in it? Thanks!!!

Peaks Citrus Basil throws nicely. Also Candle Science's Lemon Verbena has a nice woodsy throw to it.

I promise I won't post anymore of these - I just think this wax is so pretty! Scented Ocean. Trying to decide where to start wicking on this one. Wicking sucks!

Nice color on that one, but personally, I think the fancy container takes away from the wax, which should be the focus. Just my opinion.

Good luck with wicking.. I finally gave up because I had to double wick to make it work.. and I just don't like the look of double wicked candles.

I would start with the CandleScience wicks. HTPs do ok too.

If you search on peach within the forums you'll find lots of threads about peach and every one of them says that Peach doesn't throw well. Just must be something about it.

There are a few on here who are mixing just a few oz's of soy with their palm (glass glow palm). Is this helping the air pocket problems or are you still having to heat jars and cool slowly??

TIA

tootie

You will still have to heat jars and cool slowly if you want the crystallization patterns. I tested GG and used a bit of soy and still got some air pockets, but not consistently so. I'd say about 25% required a repour.

First, it's GORGEOUS. Or at least the container is.

Second, what the heck is maple wax? And how do we get some, lol. Off to google I go!

On the candle science site it said lx 16 but when I tested it it was way too small. Back to the sample packs I guess.

Please tell us what kind of wax you're using, that will help a great deal.