R.S.

ok, I'm not an expert and very interested in this thread because I've thought that about some of my candles sometime. But for the size you're talking about 2 LX 16s seems a lot if you're talking Soy. If it's Palm, I'm not sure if that's a lot or not. What wax are you using? I'm using CDs with CB135 and no longer having that issue.

Thanks! It's certainly not worth my time to try wicking it more than once. I'll take one shot at it and be done with it.

Makes me feel so good about what I do.

and it is the poorest quality I can imagine. It is not even near wicked strong enough so it's tunnelling, and there is no hot throw to speak of. The bottom of the tumbler doesn't have a sticker so you see this big messy glue dot. Horrible horrible horrible.

So a question to you paraffin users, I want to melt this candle down and rewick it. I only have CD wicks sizes 14 through 22. What wick do you recommend I use?

Tumbler is 3.25 inches wide, fragrance is Pomegranate. It's a 9oz tumbler. It looks to me that they wicked it with something that might be comparable to a CD8, melt pool is about 1.75 inches only!

AND I PAID $20 FOR THIS CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

"Goof Off" says right on their label that it can be used to remove candle wax. I've never actually tried it and it seems to be very heavily alcohol based. I'd try a small bit to make sure it doesn't bleach the carpet or something like that.

tyvm!

Thanks. I don't need to add more than normal to account for some evaporation of the FO on reheating?

Not a big deal, but I've never been this stupid before, lol.

I needed to pour 7 candles for an order and I had just enough FO for the order. So I calculated the ounces of wax I needed, multiplied it by 7 added in the weight of the pot that I pour in from my presto to get total weight so that I make sure I get the right number of ounces..... and then I divided by TWELVE to get the weight in pounds.

So I pour my wax, added FO let cool to slushy stage and poured into my set up containers. And all of a sudden I had a LOT of wax left over, lol! And I realize because of this I've poured at a lower percentage FO than I want.

So I poured the wax back into the pot, and I've let it cool completely because I need to do an emergency order to Peaks to get more FO.

So my question.... what do I do when I get my FO.. just heat the wax until it melts and add the rest of the FO to get to my normal load.. (I need to add another oz and a quarter, already 3 oz in wax). Or do I need to get the wax back up to my normal pour temp to add remaining fragrance oil? Do I have to be concerned with FO evaporating during the re-heat? Ie: should I add more FO than I normally would?

When responding, please start your response with "Dear Stupid"

TIA

I am making a soy wax candle in a wide mouth pint mason jar, - diam is 3in and I am using a cd12 wick from ng and it seems that is is not melting wax all the way to the edges

My wick is for 3 1/2 in diam. jar... not sure what to switch to.

Help!

Thanks

I bet CD16 would do the trick, maybe a CD14. It can vary by fragrance, but I use cds and even my easiest burning soy I don't go below CD14 for a 2 7/8" inch tumbler.

Thank you for responding. I read some posts and visited Peak candle supplies. Their kits look interesting - I might just try some. I don't really like the pillars much as I like a strong scent so I probably will start with some container candles.

Do you get discouraged easily???? I welcome you to try it, but please go in with the mindset that you're going to start making a lot of crappy candles at the beginning. It takes a lot of time, money and testing to really start getting things right. Good luck, I'm glad I started!

Hi Regina,

I have been using this wax for years. I have found that depending on "the weather" you have to adjust your pour temps. I pour around 115 or so, sometimes cooler. And also make sure to stir every few minutes prior to pouring.

HTH

I'm curious how you adjust for the weather. Can you give more details please?

Presto pot for sure.. but to add something I haven't seen yet...

chopsticks are perfect for what ails ya... stirring and poking relief holes.

With my paraffin candles, the 1/4 inch is standard for the zinc core.

But with the wicks for natural wax is there a different length to trim to before you light it for the first time? I'm wondering most about the advertised "self-trimming" wicks. Does the curl property mean they should not be trimmed as short?

(Couldn't find anything in the archives; maybe I've searched wrong.)

Everything I've seen has been a quarter inch for soy and palm as well.

My personal opinion.... I didn't care for Dr. Feelgood at all. And didn't think it threw in soy that well either.

I am having some troubles getting any hot throw in my candles. I can't figure out if it's my wax or maybe I am not letting them cure long enough? I am using FO from Peaks. I know it works well with this wax because the woman who I used to buy my candles from (and who taught me how to make them) used the same wax and FO, so I know it throws. She uses more than the recommended amount of FO per pound and I wonder if that's what it is. I use 1.5 oz and she used 2.5 oz. (Nu-Scents recommends 1.5 oz). I let the candles cure for two days (I'm a bit anxious and am using CSN wicks from Candle Science. Does anyone have any idea as to why I cannot get a good hot throw? It seems to work ok in small rooms but will not fill up my living room like the candles of hers that I have burned. I'm puzzled and really frustrated!

What wax are you using? How hot are you heating your wax? At what temperature are you adding the fragrance oil to the heated wax?

Has anyone had any luck using hemp wicks in either Ecosoya PB or Feather Palm wax? Those are the two types of waxes that I primarily use and have been interested in giving hemp wicks a try. However before I go out and purchase some, I was hoping to get some advice as to if anyone has had any luck or if you have any suggestions?

The size of candles I make have a 3 inch diameter from 3 to 6 inches in height.

Thanks.

I tried the biggest hemp wick I could find in a container palm and it was not even close to big enough. (3 in wide container). Don't even think double wicking would have been enough. Seemed to tunnel a bit for me too.

I know that Wicks Unlimited sell wicks with a color coded string in them. (Different color for each size so you could easily tell what sized wick was used) They claimed that they didn't sell them anywhere (and you had to order only from them in batches of 10,000, lol).

Anyone know if these are the same wicks?

I use ecosoya pure. I've had some candles with strong cold throw and lit them and barely a hot throw at all. Can someone explain why changing wicks would help because the wick I'm using creates a great flame and great burn pool so why might a different wick create a better hot throw? Still a newbie myself.

lol, I'd like an answer to this myself. I'm not sure why, but it did make a difference. I suspect that different wicks burn at different temps creating different melt pools. I'm sure someone can come up with a more scientific reason or tell me I'm just crazy. Both are possible

I have been very happy with 135 for ease of use. Yes, I get the occasional wet spot, and I don't color, so frosting isn't really an issue. But I found the hot throw to be good.

I originally started with HTP wicks, but switched to CDs and I think that helped with throw as well. Just a suggestion.

Yes, I am referring to an unlit candle. I am not sure about sweating at the top of the candle so can't help ya there. Mine are sweating on the side of the jar. You can see the space between the jar and and the wax. That is what they refer to as sweating, correct?

Dawn

No, that is a wet spot. And we would all like a solution to that problem.

Luckily for me I live in Dallas, and so visit the E'rgo factory outlet on occasion. I looked at a label of a candle I bought there is it said" 100% soy wax and premium fragrance". That seems pretty clear to me.

I assume we are talking about unlit candles here? If so, I haven't had to deal with sweating.

However, if I light a soy candle, there is a small amount of sweating that takes place on the top of the candle until the melt pool has grown to full size. Does that count as sweating?

Chopsticks work great for this! That's what I use.

Agreed, always measure by weight for more consistency

wow, thanks for all the information, will take me awhile to get through it, lol

Edit after reading through your post and clicking all the links:

First and foremost, thank you for all the information, that clearly took a lot of time and research and I respect you for doing that.

But I don't see anything inconsistent in what you've posted. And the best way I can think of to describe it to you is this... all those links discuss the composition of the wax component of the candle, not the candle in total. Clearly, there are fragrance oils and essential oils (and a wick) added to the wax. No one is denying that, nor is anyone denying the fact that eating those fragrance oils would be unhealthy.

I hope I'm making my point well, if not please let me know. Jimmy has actually opened an office about a mile from my house and he's friends with friends of mine. I may try to see if I can get him to respond to this at some point. It may be weeks or even months before I can make that happen, cause I have a busy schedule, but I may try.

Ok, finally...here is the pic...thought it might be the tins, but it's happening on a couple of the glass containers also. It's harder to see in the yellow and the purple one has grown since I last checked it...it was a small circle and now it's huge! pretty soon the whole candle will be white.

KK, that's not what was happening to my candle. It was a consistent discoloration on top. I've lit it now, and it seems to be burning just fine. Not sure it throws as well as everyone says it does, but that's a different problem altogether!

Thanks for the help and the effort!