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Fern

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Everything posted by Fern

  1. I don't know what your problem is since I haven't seen your previous posts but if you're getting strong throw from a tart and not from a pillar or container than I'd say it's your wick. Plus, tarts just throw better than pillars. Pillars have a light to moderate scent throw...unless it's been burning a long time and has a good melt pool going or is loaded with an extremely strong FO. Containers do better than the pillars but tarts still throw the best...at least in my opinion.
  2. Just blast it with your heat gun. Then when it's soft, just push it by the neck of the tab with a butter knife or some other blunt instrument and it should come right off.
  3. Haven't been making a whole lot of pillars this year...mainly been doing tarts and containers...but wanted to post some I've made in the past. I started getting the itch again when I made the log candle last week. I wish you could really see the detail on the top...it looks like wood grain with a knot in it...but don't think it's going to show up so well in the pick. Here goes... DISREGARD...THE ATTACHMENTS ARE TOO SMALL...WILL TRY AGAIN.
  4. I've tried the Apple Jack and Peel...not exactly my cup of tea...but others liked it a lot...and it's very strong.
  5. KY Candle Supply has an awesome Mediterranean Fig. It smells nothing like Peaks...not that Peaks isn't good...it's just different...totally different. It's less fruity and more perfumey...it's hard to explain but it's divine! It's the most highly requested scent by my friends and family.
  6. Save on Scents has a HUGE variety of designer scents...but don't waste your money on anything but the ultra or extreme concentrates. The lower grade of oil...and the cheapest...is just too weak. Mind you, their FO's aren't cheap but if it's variety of designer scents your looking for, that's the place to go.
  7. I've used them as well and found that the ultra or extreme concentrates are the only way to go. The other grade of oil...can't think of what the call it at the moment is just too weak. I don't think they are cost effective though. When you up the grade, you end up spending more money then you would buying elsewhere for the same quality. They do have a huge variety of scents and their perfume dupes are usually dead on. I haven't been disappointed in anything I have gotten except when I bought the lower grade oils...which I don't do any more.
  8. FYI: CD's and HTP's are basically the same wick. HTP's are American made and the CD's are German made. Just didn't want anyone to waste money when you can buy one or the other, instead of both. Alan told us about this last year...just thought you might want to know.
  9. If you still have wax on the sides of your container after burning it for 4 hours then your wick is too small. What is the diameter of your container? I just realized your using soy wax. You can't always follow the size suggestions from the supplier when it comes to soy because you always have to wick up a size or two from what they suggest. It's just how soy is...a PITA...that's why I stopped using it.
  10. I'm more of a rustic girl myself, but if you're looking for a pillar wax that is smooth and shiney and has excellent scent throw, I would suggest OK6228. It's a little difficult to wick, meaning you will probably have to wick way up from the suggested size but when it's wicked right, you'll have smooth, shiney and very fragrant pillars...or votives. It's also an excellent wax to use for making tarts.
  11. WSP has excellent fragrances but a lot of their FO's are extremely expensive compared to what you can get elsewhere. I can buy a lb of FO from Peaks for the price that WSP charges for 8 oz...and the quality of both is excellent. They do have a budget busters section to purchase FO's at a lower price but the really good ones are not in that section. Another drawback is their shipping charges are really high. So if you buy something, I'd buy a lot of it at once to justify the shipping costs you're going to pay.
  12. Since I'm thinking that there may be too much vybar in it and that's why it's not throwing...I didn't want to put it in my tarts because I don't want it to inhibit the throw. I've managed to get some pretty strong tarts with what I use now and don't want to mess that up. Maybe one day I'll find a use for it.
  13. I believe the rule of thumb is 3 x actual cost for retail, and 2 x actual cost for wholesale.
  14. I think they look great. You certainly got the colors right for that particular scent. Good job!
  15. Dana: LOL, isn't it funny that we both have it in our basements and neither one of us is throwing it out...even though it sucks and we'll never use it again.
  16. Must not be the same thing then if it's house blend. Oh well.
  17. To tell you the truth, I don't think you have to do a whole lot of testing if you're making wickless candles and tarts. You just want to make sure you use the right amount of FO and pour your wax at the right temp. You've got little to fear since none of them will ever be lit. So if you want to sell them, I don't see what the problem would be...unless they weren't strong enough...then know one would ever buy another one.
  18. If the JS123 is the same as the Astorlite 123, I couldn't get that wax to throw for the life of me. I must have tried 4 or 5 different scents, tried many wicks, cured it for up to two weeks...and nothing. I could have gotten a bad batch with maybe too much vybar in it or something. All I know is that it didn't work for me and it's been sitting in my basement for over a year now...I don't know why I won't throw it out though. :undecided
  19. Sandrah: Go back to General Candle Making Discussions and then select "New Thread". This will allow you to start a new topic.
  20. Sounds like your wick is too big if you got a melt pool that fast. The problem is once that candle has been burning awhile, you risk cracking the jar because the heat is too intense with the size wick you used. Whether you single wick it or double wick it you want to shoot for approximately 1" (in diameter) per hour until you reach a full melt pool. I don't use the apothacary jars nor zinc wicks so I can't help you with the sizing on those, but I'm sure someone else does and will probably chime in. Good luck!
  21. I think they're freakin' awesome! I love the effect and after looking at them awhile think they might look even nicer if the bottoms were the same color as they are now, but mottled like the rest of the pillar. I absolutely love the color combo and how the colors blended the way they did. Great job!
  22. Ooooh...me likey very much!!
  23. Sure you can...but God only knows what it's going to smell like. It could smell great or it could smell like dog doo...but you won't know until your try.
  24. Hey Guys: I use J223 but would like to know what the difference is between J-300, J-50 and J223. From the descriptions I've read, it says that J223 has enhanced scent throw and the other two don't. So why would anyone want to use the others? Just curious to know what it is that would make someone choose one over the other if one says it throws scent better. Just curious since I haven't tried the J-300 or J-50.
  25. You actually got a full melt pool using a CD-10? I would have thought that it would burn right down the middle with maybe a 3/4" -1" diameter melt pool. I don't know how you did it, but more power to ya girl.
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