Candybee

Orange EO will fade. I don't even bother buying the sweet orange or 5x orange EOs anymore. No matter what you do they will fade over time. Next time get some 10x orange EO. Litsea Cubeba does help as an anchor but it will only help the orange temporarily. Eventually within a few days or weeks it will fade. It will help the grapefruit thou.

I don't know how long this type of malware has been around but be on the lookout for it. Its been growing exponentially in the last year and in the last six months has targeted a lot of businesses. Some repeatedly. Read about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ransomware This happened to me about a couple months ago. All my files were locked up and I when I tried to open them I got gobbly gook and a directive that I had to go to a certain site and they would unlock my encrypted files. Fortunately I did not do this and deleted the files. I lost everything including all my photos, word, and excel documents. I ran a full scan using three different malware programs and they kept finding all the infected malware on my computer. Plus it took several full comp scans to get everything over a few days. Never saw so many warnings on my computer before ever! But finally I got them all cleaned out. The thing is they typically re-strike their victims that pay them and they can continue to do so over and over again. From what I read they are finding entry through your emails. They embed the malware in normal looking emails like authentic looking UPS emails. Naturally when you order something and its ships UPS you don't think anything of opening the UPS mail especially when the vendor you ordered from says they shipped UPS. That is just one way they can gain access to your computer. So as always be suspicious of emails. Never open an email from someone you don't recognize and beware of even normal looking emails from delivery companies. You can always check with your vendor email and get the shipping number from them. Then go directly to the UPS or USPS or Fed Ex site and check there instead of opening the email. Just wanted to alert everyone because if it can happen to me it can happen to any small business owner.

I've used the crystal pillar palm from Candlewic before in aluminum molds. The pillars just slide right out of the mold when cool. I don't use additives in it at all. I also like to chill the molds before adding the hot wax so I get some awesome rustic palm pillars.

I don't intend to color these or do swirls. I know from the FO description that they should discolor to tan/brown so the process will be simple. Just blend it all together and get it in the mold! So I may do my 1st one with just enough liquid (aloe juice) to match the lye, the do the rest liquid as flat beer and put it in with my oils.

I've seen jasmine prices in such a wild range.. anywhere from $40 an ounce to $175+. What do you think would be the discrepancy? Dilution? Plant source/part?

I've only heard of adding stearic to palm pillar waxes that have difficulty releasing from the mold. But you should try it without first to see if it needs any. I would never use any additive in a wax that isn't necessary. I also can't imagine adding vybar would benefit palm.

Welcome to Craft Server!

Hmmmm... I may try to do beer as my total liquid. Another question.. do you do a full water or a discount? I usually do a small discount at 33% instead of 38%.

Let us know how it turns out! So I have a question about beer soap. What qualities do you find the beer imparts in the soap? Is it sudsier, creamier, more gentle? Just curious as to what to look for.

Your best bet is prevention. Cover your floor and working area. I have a rug I cover the floor with. My countertops clean easy but if they didn't I would cover them with newspaper or wax paper and tape it down. The paper is easy to throw away and a rug can be washed.

I work with palm and when I drop wax on the floor or countertop I usually wait for it to cool. Then it is easiest to scrape it off with a putty knife. What I can't scrape off I use my heat gun to liquify then paper towel it off. I use this rule of thumb; scrape off the majority of it first, then heat gun the leftover residue. I color my wax so I don't want the color to soak into the floor or countertop so I would rather just heat gun a tiny bit than a lot.

Their 5x orange just fades no matter how much you use. So far the only orange EO I have used that has any staying power is the 10x orange I got from the Chemistry Store. BB has the 10x orange too. For EOs like that I combine the FO and some of the EO together and that usually does the job. The EO I use as a 'booster' to the FO which makes the scent more natural and stronger smelling. Eg.; the Sea Island Graperfruit FO + Pink Grapefruit EO. By using both I can also minimize the % of EO while still getting that great scent. Haven't tried it with the orange yet. But with the 10x orange I don't have to. The lime and lemongrass have good staying power and don't morph on you. Same with the pink grapefruit. I have some tangerine but the same problem with that as the orange. Smells great for a while but fades to nothing before the soap is even finished curing. So far my favorite citrus EOs are: Lime, Lemongrass, Litsea Cubeba, and Pink Grapefruit. I consider Bergamot a crossover floral/citrus but its still lovely. BTW-- the Litsea works pretty good as an anchor for your other citruses plus it enhances their scent with a 'crisp' or 'sharpness' to the citrus.

Lately my favorite combo is lemongrass and lime. So fresh, clean, and citrusy. I love showering with it. Until I discovered pink grapefruit! Yowzer! I made some salt bars with Pink Himalayan salt with the pink grapefruit mixed with EBB's Sea Island Grapefruit. I just love these soaps!

Well I won't be using a slab mold so I think I will add at trace and do the 'flat' beer thing. I'm using a simple 4 oil recipe using OO, lard, CO, and castor so should keep things a bit slow. Gonna break in my PVC mold for these beer soapies so they will be 3" rounds.

I'm planning on letting it go flat and adding at trace. If I do that do I need to either 'cook' or 'burn' off the alcohol? I thought that wouldn't be necessary adding flat beer at trace. BTW-- I am using goat milk and aloe juice as my other liquid.

Olive oil is the one oil I always buy locally. I have never bought it online. I guess that's kind of weird but I am funny that way. Now I sometimes buy my CO and castor locally but only when I am out and need in a hurry for a soaping emergency! LOL

I have a new 'beer' soap line with recipes and fragrances all ready to be made. I just need to get around to making them! I am using 4 of BB's beer scents; Pumpkin Lager, Oatmeal Stout, Honey Ale, and Spiced Amber Ale. The pumpkin and oatmeal have good reviews and smell so good OOB. Reviews of the other two are mixed but they both smell pretty good OOB. Can't wait to try them. Just need to decide what beer to use.

I've only used Nag Champa in M&P many years ago. Now I only use CS Nag Champa in candles. Haven't checked to see if its body safe so not sure. I need to try that and a good Dragon's Blood in CP one of these days! The Vanilla Bourbon was good but it was so dark and made yellowish lather so I never tried it again. I've got to try Soapalooza's Bourbon Vanilla one of these days. I've heard good reviews about it but never tried it. Always looking for a good vanilla but without the yellow lather and one that doesn't morph scentwise!

Sounds intriguing! I need a new salt bar fragrance.... hmm...

Sorry Sonoma- I've only used the CS Peach in my candles. The rainbow soap sounds nice and I still have not made any beer soap yet! (although I have made bourbon vanilla soap with real bourbon and real vanilla bean!)

That sounds lovely! Can you describe what the Sea Kelp smells like?

Oh... don't forget their Iced Lemon Biscotti! It's TDF! So is the Butterscotch Brulee. Yum!

I just finished making batches of men's shaving soap, and some oatmeal, goat milk, and honey soaps. I also need to make some mud bars, lemon verbena, and some lemongrass and lime bastile soaps. So what are you all working on?

Bottle labels? What do you make? Lotion? Beer? Wine?

I agree with Top. Some waxes require a repour. Its a simple fix really, just top off the candle with enough heated wax to level the top off. The tins look great. I would only do the repour on the jar although it doesn't really need it. It would only be for aesthetic purposes. Also, you might find that smaller jars may not require a repour while larger jars do.