Mona

I don't think Tara is in business any longer. I bought her candles some years ago before I started making them myself. I didn't think they were that strong, and didn't care for how they burned. I don't believe she's registered on eBay any longer. Her website used to be http://www.tarascandles.com. That site no longer exists, but you can see a cached version of her old home page at http://64.233.179.104/search?q=cache:EgUJXvictJsJ:www.tarascandles.com/+tara%27s+super+scented+candles&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=2.

I use normal household scissors, and get a clean cut. I haven't found a wick trimmer that cuts zinc core wicks. I use toenail clippers to trim newly made candles.

RA has a first-time order minimum of only $50.00. http://www.royalaromatics.com/ They also have several qualities to choose from. http://www.royalaromatics.com/quality.asp

I've been using KY Southern Vanilla in J50 for several years. I get a great throw, and customers tell me it's the best vanilla candle they've tried.

I'm not able to answer your question, but here's a good site about trademarks, VERO, etc. http://www.tabberone.com/Trademarks/trademarks.html

http://www.candles.org/elements_wax.html

PartyLite has something similar called Scent Infusion Wax Beads.

Sounds interesting, as long as one of the notes isn't anchovies!

Don't leave the jars in the oven long enough for the wax to melt off the wicks.

It doesn't matter if the wax is melted off the exposed wick. The reason for priming a wick is to force out the trapped air before you can use it and make a candle around it.

Delivery Confirmation is only supposed to show delivery and/or attempted delivery. Sometimes the clerks will scan the package upon acceptance, but they're not required to. http://hdusps.esecurecare.net/cgi-bin/hdusps.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=6518&p_created=1106169875&p_sid=CWgLLOYh&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPSZwX3NvcnRfYnk9JnBfZ3JpZHNvcnQ9JnBfcm93X2NudD0yOCZwX3Byb2RzPTE4LDYwJnBfY2F0cz0mcF9wdj0yLjYwJnBfY3Y9JnBfc2VhcmNoX3R5cGU9YW5zd2Vycy5zZWFyY2hfbmwmcF9wYWdlPTE*&p_li=&p_topview=1

Not a book, but plenty of free information from the Small Business Administration. http://www.sba.gov/

http://www.candlesupply.com/flashpointinfo.html

http://www.consigningclosets.com/

The USPS regulations permit shipment by air if the flashpoint is 142 or higher.

Check in the grocery stores. All of them around where I live have them year round.

IMHO, that Yahoo link in a previous post appears to be from an known source and lacks credibility. If advertising that burning soy candles is somehow better for the environment, one will have to be prepared to prove their claims to the FTC. Claims that soy is healthier or more friendly to the environment must also be substantiated. I've seen more than enough claims, but never any proof. http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/grnrule/guides980427.htm http://www.scorecard.org/chemical-profiles/national-risk-characterization.tcl?edf_substance_id=8002%2d74%2d2

DH & I have lived in our house for 13 years. We both burn paraffin candles, and lots of them. We have forced air oil heat and central AC, and have never had a problem with soot.

The Occasional account is what you probably want to open. https://www.ups.com/myups/info/openacct

I wouldn't add any more FO to the melted candles. Since you said they're already scented the oil might not mix in. If you do add any FO, add it a very little at a time, to make sure it blends. I'm wondering if the color might be too dark after they're melted together for you to even see if the FO blends in or not.

I've been very happy with my HP. It's one of those printer/scanner/copier combos. There are several models to choose from, depending on how much you want to spend. One advantage to HP printers is that the print head is in the cartridge, which means each time you replace a cartridge you're also getting a new print head. My printer also has slots to read from four different types of memory cards. I use it to transfer my photos to my PC.

http://www.sba.gov/starting_business/index.html http://www.candlecauldron.com/trademarks.html

IMHO you're complicating the whole process of making candles by over analyzing. The weight of 7.2 fluid oz. of water won't weigh the same as 7.2 fluid oz. of FO. Equal fluid measurements of different FO's won't always weigh the same. The flashpoint of an FO isn't a concern when it's mixed into the wax. See http://www.candlesupply.com/flashpointinfo.html for an explanation. I don't heat FO before adding to the wax. For me it's just an unnecessary extra step, since the FO will warm up once it's in the wax. I also never bother with percentages. I weigh the FO, and adjust as needed based on my testing of each one. You might find that you waste a lot of materials by making candles with 5 lbs. of wax at first. I recommend starting out with no more than 1 lb., unless you need more for the container you plan to use. I like to use disposable cups to measure FO. Makes cleaning up a lot quicker and easier.

http://www.igiwax.com/wax_faq.shtml

There are so many variables that can affect just how one candle burns, it's impossible to calculate an exact burn time. A container candle will burn hotter as it gets lower, so the hotter the burn the faster the burn time. Even Yankee doesn't give one approximate burn time on any one size candle. For 22 oz., 110-150 hrs. 14.5 oz., 65-90 hrs. 3.7 oz., 25-40 hrs.