Hope

Glad I could be of service (insert hat-off-bowing-smiley here). Another common guideline is one hour of burn per inch of container diameter. Just guidelines though, actual results will vary. Have some great holidays too!

1/4-1/2" seems to be more acceptable. I seem to usually end up with ~3/8".

Whoa... that seems a bit deep! An 8 oz. jj is only about ~3.5" deep.

Surprised here, thought you'd beat me to posting that one!Hillary... hope it works out for you. For people who need peanuts, I wonder what Hobby Lobby and Micheal's does with their peanuts? If I need any, I usually get dept. store friend to hook me up.

www.earth911.org may help get rid of them, they have a great reuse/recycle directory. Type in zip code, 'Reuse & Recycling Services', scroll down to the plastic box, then, 'Plastic Peanut Reuse'.

Great presentation, beautiful candles. Looks quite cheery with those flowers (label).:smiley2: JMO: If it were me... I'd make the "funky..." line a bit smaller so it doesn't compete with the "eco.." line. Also, so that "eco..." line will pop out a bit more.

Now that you've explained it, that definately does make more sense. Doesn't a pillar warning sticker say something to the effect of stop burning when 1" of wax is left at the bottom? I haven't burned near as many pillars as containers and, I haven't seriously ventured into the pillar realm yet. But, I usually ended the candle's burning life b/c it can be such a PITA to get off of the pillar holder (if left to burn too close to bottom of pillar). Realize the great amount of consumer ignorance & carelessness that wouldn't think to extinguish the candle before it burns to the very end. So, kudos for your thoughtfulness of the non-burning 'cushion' of wax. I have burned container candle testers w/o some securing adhesive (just wick & tab) to see how much wax would be consumed, and temp'd the MP to see what happens. They can wipe their plates pretty clean! Some had a couple of grams left over, some had one gram, some had zero grams. It is interesting how very little molten is needed to keep a flame going. But, I suppose the same can be said or done with votives.

I wonder who those 'experts' were. Wonder if they are candle-users and makers. Logically, that proposal doesn't seem very stable for the wick & tab. There probably is some group out there that probably thinks we need to wear helmets and various paddings to protect ourselves after we get out of bed and on with our day.

Smells fraud-y. Who's she using for e-mail? You don't need to tell here. I can't think of anyone (non-friend/aquaintance) who'd use a non-business e-addy for business. If handling the situation nicely doesn't send her on her way, be polite and firm about seeing some credentials from her. If none, you're "really not interested, and please don't contact me again". The before mentioned of contacting the ins. co's isn't a bad idea either. Hope she doesn't waste too much of your time.

Full melt pool.

Perhaps it was enriched with a good nutritional supplement... like a Flintstone's vitamin.

Great. Next, we'll have someone on this board trying to make a candle out of earwax.

MP of LP 416 is 130-135F. What is the temp. of some melted wax in your burner/pot? If the 416 isn't melting, then the 'simmering' temp. may be too low to do the job. Then you'd have to just rely on the cold throw of the unmelted melt. It sounds like you may be using weight & volume measurements to calculate FO %. Of course I could be mistaken and you could be using volume(FO) & volume(wax). It'll help to communicate FO amount here on the msg board using weight(FO) & weight(wax) measurements/calcs. That is *if* you were going to ask for help in that area. However, whatever you do, maintaining measurement consistency is important for your own purposes. :smiley2:

Major difference seems to be the melt points of each. 402 + additive(@2%) = 464 (464 mp: 115-124F) 415 + additive(@2%) = 444 (444 mp: 120-125F)

Storage at room temp. should be fine, unless you have extreme temps inside the house. If you made a lot of candles, you'd probably run out of room in the freezer. :smiley2:

Welcome! I usually have a spare bucket of questions myself. After one conundrum is put to rest, more spring to life... doesn't seem to end. Feasible wicking can do wonders for the reduction of soot. But, it really depends on your particular application in question. For example, excessive FO can contribute to the problem as well. There are many types, combinations, and blends of waxes so it really is a personal preference. Shipping and availability of materials from suppliers can also be important in that decision. A case of 415 can be bought for just under $40 + shipping, while a particular case of 70/30 can be around $70. Add shipping... It really just depends on what kind of candle you want to make,... and aesthetically, what kind of life you want it to have. :smiley2: Best wishes!

That would be a personal preference. Sorta depends on what you want to do with it. Get a couple pounds of whatever you find interesting. :smiley2:

Probably doesn't have a long enough shelf life due to ooey gooey goodness... mmmm. Check out the cakes... www.betterthansexcake.com

Those would make for quite spunky lil' (bon)firestarters! Now, I want to go whip one up and examine it's finer combustible properties.

What I found out... The additive powder is used (as opposed to the beads) for the formulation of 464 & 444. My initial experimental portion of wax I rec'd may have been one of those two. Can't be certain because I don't have any left, and had thrown away the bag it which it was shipped. When melting flakes, sometimes they melt together and become a mega clump o' flakes. Similar thing may have occured with the additive. That may have been what I saw. Or it was many entire strange galaxies appearing in the molten for the briefest moment, only to be snuffed out prematurely by my selfish desire to make a candle.

Good idea, thanks. I'll try & contact him this morning. I think I found the mp of the additive. 156-162F. That would explain why it took longer for the balls to disappear... That is, if that was what I was observing. Anyhow, thanks to all who responded. :smiley2:

Also explains the disproportionate shipping charges. :lipsrseal

Users of 464 or 444, or people who have used it.... I was curious if it exhibits the tiny spheres while the non-2%-additive portion melts. Apparently, the emulsifier seems to have a higher mp. (I've melted it in some 415 before and noticed it doesn't melt as quickly.) Anyhow, I'm asking b/c I rec'd a couple of pounds of a certain wax. Then, bought a case... which seems to exhibit a different texture, is ball-less while melting, and behaves a bit differently post pouring, and during burn. I'm just trying to nail down what stuff I may have rec'd. TIA

Thanks for taking the time. I wish Peak's sold the particular item of discussion, I'd be quite :smiley2: . There seems to be a supply/demand issue. Perhaps I should just start demanding a supply...Just to update, WU only sells full spools of the raw HTP wick.

Pretty much my feelings. Oh well. Somehow, I'll eventually find it! A&P has a larger min. than I need. I think WU was the same. I'll just contact them again. Thanks for the response.