jmspgh

7 hours ago, Marisa11 said:

 

@jmspgh Nova jars are really nice but the lids OOF! I wouldn’t even call it a lid just a plastic disc that loosely sits on top.

 

Look at Sixteenseventeen.com for nice jars comparable to Dream Vessels maybe better.

Actually on my last order I did get some of the nova lids and I was very very underwhelmed. I think the glass quality is great but the lids feel really cheap compared to the jars... Which is crazy because the lids are more expensive!! I knew they were going to be plastic based on the description but I was hoping for more based on the quality of the jars. I was going to try finding an alternate lid (metal? cork?) to use with the nova but haven't had a chance yet.

I have looked at sixteen seventeen but haven't ordered anything to try yet. From what I can remember they seemed a little more expensive than dream vessels which was already at the top of my container budget.

sorry @candlecraftshop I have only tried the nova and ziva so far

Most of my testing so far with the coco brew has been without FO but a little over a month ago i poured a few candles (various scents) at 8% FO.  I started burning them after curing just over a week and the HT was mediocre.  However, each time I burn one since then the HT has improved.

Does anyone include care instructions or burning tips with their candles? I have purchased many many candles and this is rarely included. I realize that most people aren't going to follow them. Prior to starting my candle making research I was one of "those" people who frequently burnt a candle either all day or for 15 minutes and wanted every last drop of wax gone. Just curious how others go about this.

wow...my mind is blown.  i can't wait to bust out my wicks and figure it out.  I have yet to attempt multi-wicking and probably wont for a while but so glad i know this now.

On 10/24/2020 at 6:43 PM, TallTayl said:

 

 

Note: When multi wicking with curling self-trimming wicks I point the curls in specific directions to create quick heat circulation and minimize heat build up in any one specific area.  These all point to the right around the bowl, like a recycle symbol.

 

These are beautiful!

How can you figure out which way the wick is going to curl?

So far I have gone thru 2 10lb slabs.  I just dove into my first 45 pound box (now beads as opposed to slabs)...not gonna lie, it was kinda exciting buying 45lb at once haha.  Sorry...I'm such noob.  I know that is small potatoes compared to most of you.

I have had the aforementioned champagne bubbles but they don't really bother me much.  Should they?

I have also had some cracking in the wax around the wick during some later burns burns but the cracks usually disappear after a burn or two.  I am mostly testing without FO but I have added some at 8% and the HT was decent.  I could stand it to be a bit stronger but I am hoping that once I narrow down my wicks more that will improve as well without needing to increase the FO%.

I haven't noticed any signs of larger sinkholes but I do have a few candles set aside that I am going to dissect further to investigate whenever I can find a time that 2 toddlers are not hanging on my legs wanting to "help".

On 10/21/2020 at 7:06 AM, Lizzy said:

I'm about to dive in and pour testers. I plan on going with my usual testing method which includes full color (liquid dyes) and FO (8%). Wish me luck. LOL
I will report back in a day or two.

Good luck!!

17 hours ago, TallTayl said:

 

I can go into more detail about the batch sheets if anyone is interested.

 

I am interested if you don't mind sharing more.

Thank you for this post...I am still in the early phases and this is great information to have. @TallTayl what are your processes?

@TallTayl Thank you!  I went back and looked again...I found the lot number on a sticker on the outside of the shipping box.  I'm glad I hadn't put it in the recycling yet.  Can I expect every batch I order to have different lot numbers?

I am not sure if I am asking this question right, so I apologize if it doesn't make sense.  When you order wax from a manufacturer how do you know what batch/lot/etc it is coming from?  So far I have only ordered small amounts of wax (I just placed my first "large" order of 45lb) but I don't see this information anywhere on it. I imagine it's different with every supplier but do they only include this with larger orders or do you have to ask specifically for it? The more I look into the safety, business and quality control aspects I realize that I should have this information in case issues come up, as they inevitably will.

Also...thanks so much for the ideas to create your own batch numbers.  Again, something that I didn't think of initially.  So glad I found this forum and wealth of information it contains.

6 hours ago, Kerven said:

Like @TallTayl said, the additives made the difference. Some additives have high (>150F) melt points and create a sturdy crystalline structure/lattice/matrix/network/<insert appropriate term> that withstands higher temperatures while keeping the lower melt point materials trapped within. Some of the lower melt point materials might sweat or leak out through openings in the crystalline structure but the overrall wax will try to hold together, even if it turns soft and squishy until it finally begins to fail. Other additives gel or thicken the oils and keep them from turning runny up to a point. It could be a combination of the two. Rice bran wax, castor wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, resins, polymers, etc. Oily residues are the lower melt point materials. When they resolidified, did you notice any distinct layers or pockets that appeared different than the rest? Increased frosting? That could have been some of the higher melt point materials that may have softened but not fully melted and reincorporated. That's why it's important to fully heat fancy blended waxes or waxes known to have additives; you need to melt and fully incorporate those high melt point materials.

 

Some of the proprietary blends lack documentation such as MSDS/SDS sheets, so it's difficult to get an idea of what data they're using to base their claims on. Was a formal test such as the drop test used to determine melt point or did they simply average the melt point of the materials in the wax, for example.

 

Wouldn't it be nice if we were actually told what the additives were?  I know this will never happen but I can dream right?  Visually and by feel I really didn't notice any differences with the coconut brew wax samples.  The CCN1 had a distinct sludgy/oily layer with both the 100% and 95% coconut wax...after that that oil could still be distinguished but not quite as readily.  From what I can remember, I could easily poke my finger into the CCN1 at 100%, 95%, and 90%.

6 hours ago, TallTayl said:

it sounds like coconut brew with that low of a melt poin out of the box will be problematic as fragrance is added. I watch the coconut Facebook group in a mix between  bewilderment and horror as 12% FO and multiple wicks in most all vessels are the norm. That much FO in a wax like brew needs help to remain safe. 
 

beeswax can certainly help to some extent, as it can create a salve like product. Not all beeswax lots are the same.  Some become darned near impossible to burn.  Some are refined with chemicals that make HT more challenging than necessary. 

I haven't tried the test with fragrance added as quite honestly I didn't think of it at the time but I would be really curious to see how that changed things.  I'm guessing that different FO would change the results in different ways.  So far I have been doing 8% FO for my burning testers.

I also haven't tried burning any Coconut Brew/beeswax candles yet.  I did make quite a few mixes with beeswax and CCN1 (no FO) and what amazed me was how much I had to wick up in the candles with even a "small" 10% beeswax in them.

On 10/11/2020 at 2:46 PM, kandlekrazy said:

You may be able to find them, but I personally know 2 people that use them and they both make their own.

Just curious...I have no real desire to do this but how would one go about making something like this and ensuring that it is candle safe?

Over the summer I decided to do an experiment and I am still wondering about it.  Let's preface this by saying that I am still pretty new to candle making and so far have only been working with coconut wax blends.  I was curious about melt points and potentially shipping candles during hot months.  Although I am not looking to immediately sell candles I want to have a good understanding of issues that could come up down the road.  Following my wax research I liked most aspects of coconut wax but the low melt points gave me some concern.  I don't know if this "test" is relevant or not but here it goes...

I used Calwax CCN1 from Swans candle (melt point 126 degrees) and Coconut Brew from Candles and Supplies (melt point 115 degrees).  Following the recommended melting and pouring temps of each, I made 5 samples using each wax and poured approx 2 oz into a small plastic condiment container.  The samples were 1. 100% coconut,  2. 95% coconut and 5% white beeswax,  3. 90% coconut and 10% white beeswax,  4. 85% coconut and 15% white beeswax,  and 5. 80% coconut and 20% white beeswax.  I put all of the little cups into a box and placed in the trunk of my car which was sitting in the sun.  It wasn't the hottest day but it did reach upper 80s outside.  I should have measured the temp in my car but I didn't think of it at the time.  I checked occasionally throughout the day but mostly left the box undisturbed.

The Coconut Brew samples all stayed solid with no real change or distinction between the ratios.  The CCN1 samples were a completely different story.  The 100% CCN1 turned into a complete oily sludge.  It really wasn't until the 10% beeswax sample that I wasn't able to easily poke my finger through the wax and even that one had a decent oily residue to it.  I was expecting the opposite since the melt point of CCN is higher than the Coconut Brew.  The days started to get cooler after that I didn't have the opportunity to do a repeat test like I wanted.  The samples are now sitting in my unheated basement to see what happens in cooler temps.

Any thoughts as to why this would be the case?  Or if this information is even useful? 

@ErronB...which northwoods coconut were you using?  Are you still using it and if so are the htp wicks still working the best?  I have been thinking about trying their"All Natural Coconut Candle Wax" (NW-58) and wanted to see if anyone with more experience than me had an opinion on it.  Thanks!

love them!

 @StanfordP...some great points for me to think about.  I am currently following that process and working on my minimal viable product.  Hoping to have it ready to give to family/friends by the end of the year to test out for me and get different opinions.  It won't have any fancy labels; quite honestly I don't want to spend the money on that right now.  When I first started making candles it seemed like such a long shot that it would work out but I am really loving the process and looking forward to all the other details that come along once I have a base product that I am proud of.

Great idea about contacting local papers and advertise that way.  Thanks so much!

On 9/28/2020 at 11:04 PM, NicoleE said:

Which coconut wax from them @Jayefrojersey? Is it the coconut brew or another? I noticed the description says bright white but none of my candles have been bright white. More of an off white. 

I have been testing the coconut brew wax. It's been a cream/white color for me. I've ordered two separate slabs so far. They have a few other coconut waxes but I haven't tried those.

On 9/13/2020 at 3:09 PM, NicoleE said:

I’m still testing with this wax also. I was able to get less frosting and no cracking at all pouring immediately after mixing FO. I was also disappointed in the hot throw of this wax but tried ultra strong fragrance oils that seem to do well with it. 

@NicoleE have you done any more testing with this wax?  I just poured a few fragrances to try and wanted to see if your hot throw improved at all?

Thanks @Laura C. I started looking on etsy and have fiverr bookmarked but then thought I should develop my business model more before doing a logo. I have and general ideas about what I want but want to be more certain. I did read on here about your previous experience with logo joy... I'll be sure to avoid them!

@TallTayl and @BusyBee ....great points! I need to sit down and come up with a business plan to really target my audience. I think that will tell me a lot and give me more direction on how to proceed with my branding and marketing strategies.  I just recently started thinking about logos and I'm sure if I decide to have it professionally done these are all questions that they will be asking me as well.  It never ends...and I am loving it!

15 hours ago, Laura C said:

Hi @jmspgh. For the business side of things which also includes social media info/how-to, lookup your local chamber of commerce and the Small Business Administration (SBA). They have lots of info and usually offer free webinars, etc.

 

https://www.sba.gov/learning-center

https://www.sba.gov/course/understanding-your-customer/

https://www.sba.gov/course/social-media-marketing/

https://www.sba.gov/course/sales-guide-small-business-owner/

Thanks so much @Laura C I will definitely look into those.

I would like to learn more about different areas of marketing candle/bath/body/home products and how to be successful with it. I am in my 30s but not very tech/social media savvy.  As of now I don't have my own facebook account and am clueless when it comes to instagram.  I have no idea how to get people to visit my (not yet setup) website.  I know this will have to change and was wondering if there were any good resources (other than this blog) to learn about them...podcasts? books? etc?  I am not close to selling anything yet but would like to be prepared for the selling/business aspect when the products are ready.