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Sponiebr

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Everything posted by Sponiebr

  1. (whistles to self) Oh! How about: "The Mermaid's Fantastic Lei"
  2. Oh... Are YOU in for a ride! (low whistle...) Yeah boy pine tar CP soap is exciting stuff to make. That SOTM by Chefmom is a good solid formulation. And now a few words from our benefactor "Bad Idea Sponie": Hi folks! I'm Sponiebr and I bring bad things to life... That's right! For JUST 2000 easy payments of $19.95 per hour (+plus tag, tax, title, fees, processing, undercoating, and insurance) I will execute a bad idea FOR you so you don't have to suffer the pain... It's what I do, and it's why I exist. "Bring to me your seething depraved horrid musings, Behold! I lift my spoonula before the boiling cauldron of trouble!" The New Colostomy. -Sponie of the B.R. So... I've got a couple of suggestions that might make your Pine-Tar-Soap-Making-Thrill-of-a-LIFETIME-Experience-Extravaganza... Less... (hmmm what's the word?... Terrifying? No, no... that doesn't describe it well enough... Stressful? Yeah...) stressful. 1. CP Pine tar soap moves FAST. My times are anywhere from 25-55 seconds from incorporated to stuck to the sides of the bowl, and I soap COLD with a whisk. So having said that, have everything set up so that your steps are clearly thought out BEFORE you start the soaping and so that everything works in perfect choreography. You won't have time to think about what's next once you get it soaping. 2. Give your stick blender to a friend and have them hold it hostage until this ordeal has passed. Seriously, pine tar moves fast and if you put a stick blender to it, it will become one with the bowl AND the stick blender. 3. (I'm weird) I like a little peppermint EO in my pine tar soap. 4. I personally haven't noticed any reduction in trace time between just mixing all of the fats together with the pine tar and soaping the fats first and then adding my pine tar. Personally, I just throw all the fats, pine tar, and EO in a bowl and soap it. 5. Soapcalc does have Pine tar listed as a fat you can add to your formulation. It doesn't have a SAP value though it DOES take up a percentage. 6. 20% pine tar PPO seems to be the magic number. Any less and it doesn't seem to help much as an additive, and any more than 20% just seems to make the soap softer. 7. Pine tar seems to kick fast no matter what percentage you use. 8. Pine tar soap gets hot in the mold, AND it sweats... This is normal...Usually... 9. Sodium Lactate may slow down trace a bit and TT advises lecithin will slow the trace down a bit as well. Pine tar is one of the more difficult soaps I make, but VERY MUCH worth the hassle. Best of luck! Sponiebr
  3. @kandlekrazyHmmmm.... I wonder... would that supplier rhyme with Bulk Apothecary? o.O (blinks) Yeah... And Amazon has been blowing great big donkey egg fart oil lately.
  4. Yep! I put some SL in this batch too... (It's really nice soap BTW...) Don't get me wrong... There's nothing wrong with this soap, in fact this is one of my war horses, I was just curious as to the cause of the slow trace when I make OMH. 'sides, Let's face it... I make a CP pine tar and beeswax soleseif soap and there's not many other soaps as crazy as that one... (OOOOOOO! SALT bar pine tar beeswax... THAT'S a BAD idea RIGHT THERE!!! Gotta DO IT!) Hopefully, I'll get some pictures of the OMH batch up soon. (mebbe after the lawyer crap though...) Thanks all for the input! Sponiebr
  5. Yep! That's what I did! 72 different 1 oz bottles of FO in one soap. Accords be damned! My batch was 80 oz oils and I was shooting for 1oz POO ( per ounce of oil). Just wanted to see if it was a bad idea or not...Funny how 1 oz FO POO smells very much like poo... NOOOOOOOOO! Of course I didn't put them all in there... I mean come on, I'm Mr. Dollar Tree here, aka: Cheap Cheeky Bastard I have uncapped many of them to sniff'm and I think that's where the odor is coming from. I think it's kinda interesting how "bad" all of that "good" smells when co-mingled all unregulated like that... It reminds me of people somehow, specifically Facebook... o.O DANG IT! The seed has been planted in my head... POO... must try 1 oz. per ounce.... NOOOoooooooooo!!!!!! Orderly: Ok There Sponie, (yeah Fred hurry up the the pin and the jacket...), looks like it's time for you to go to Dizzyland Sponie... (me: NO!!!! Ounce per ounce!!!!) Orderly... But sponie... You wanna see Marty Mouse and Doofy doncha? Me: Okay... Sponiebr: giggling in the corner .I'm go'n to Dizzy Land an' Ah'm gonna see Marty Mouse!
  6. Oh, wow... I'm going to try and do this as efficiently as possible... Humectant... NOPE! I nuke my honey to make it runny and easy to pour and add it to the lye water. Then after the honey lye solution has cooled down I chill the lye solution before soaping because I, dunno... don't want a volcano from the milk reacting with the lye? This last batch is the first time I've ever used an FO in my OHM soap. I only used a OHM FO this time to try it out... If ever I DO use an FO in my OHM it'll most likely be an almond scent. Ah! There is a difference! SEE!? THIS is why I get along SO well with all y'all! TT, I believe the more appropriate term would be curdling. (First time I've heard that descriptor used in soaping) Yeah, I feel ya there... TBH I hate the smell of this soap during the whole process. It smells like cold stale hangover piss in a diaper... ( o.O ) Yuck. The only reason I have been adding my honey into the lye is because I want it to get all of it's hot and heavy action done so it can CALMLY make my soap for me. I don't need my honey having a blowout in the pot or in my mold... I also confirmed yesterday that this soap makes ammonia. I put the overage into my column mold and sealed it up the next day when I opened it up there was a strong smell of ammonia, (enough to make me blink), out of the sealed tube. Doesn't surprise me... Happy Easter All Y'all! Sponiebr
  7. @Candybee M'kay... Here's the first one, and the one that also took the longest to trace: Water: 291 g Lye: 112 g CO 764 g 46 g Great Value Honey mixed into lye solution and chilled to almost freezing. 46 g Goat milk powder mixed directly into fats dry. 46 g oat flour. SF was 20% (yes... That was my first time making a modern "artsy" "one-off" soap... I'm more "experienced" now... ) -sponiebr
  8. WHAT!? And give away the keys to the KINGDOM!? o.O (Oh... Shirley... You jester you! ) Well, I can... But it's exclusively my goats milk and honey soap that does this exact same thing, every single time, even when I'm using different SF and oils... I think it's a process issue. Let me elaborate... First of all, I don't use honey in anything but my OMH soap,(well, there was that ONE time... at band camp when I made the dinosaur poop, but that was HP, and frankly I REALLY don't WANT to know what HP did to make the dino poop, the only thing that matters is that the dino feels better now...) 2. I ALWAYS add my honey into my lye water and I ONLY use VERY cold lye+honey water when soaping (because of the milk in the fats.) I also use Meyerberg powdered goats milk in both dry and reconstituted form... Same exact difference in both instances. SLOW moving trace gets ricey and then recombines... One other special ingredient is Arrowhead Mills Organic Oat flour. I use a pretty substanial amount of honey and oat flour in this soap... I started with about 1 oz PPO of Powdered milk, Honey, and Oat flour EACH. This last batch was 80 oz fats and 71 g honey, 250 g. yogurt, 10 tbls milk powder, 25g kaolin, 2 oz OMH FO... 5 tsp Sodium lactate, and 10 g oat flour? I think it was 10 g... I dunno it was supposed to be 5 tblsp. of oat flour I think. (the batch print off from soap calc with all of my notes is at work...) OH... AND one VERY large FLuffed up ball about the size of a grapefruit of tussah silk...(I chopped that summabitch up in there too... Yeah... I like french fried taters... Uh-huh...) The precise fats blends have varied over the many batches I have made (100% CO at 20% SF down to my current GV shortening, PO, CO, OO, Cas blend... All have the same effect SLOW trace and they ricey bit... I mean, don't get me wrong, the soap is WONDERFUL, I'm just kinda curious about WHY this ONE type of soap behaves this way. If I had to have a gut reaction I'd say it's the honey and lye mix that's slowing it all down. Anywho... I'll see if I can find one of my formulations, but I'll be honest it's always been 38% water... And I'm down to about 1/2 oz PPO of honey, and dry measures on the rest of the additives (save for the silk and that I just add until I "feel" "good" about it...) THe FO is weighed out. Happy Easter! Sponiebr
  9. Just a quickie here.... So my goats milk, honey, and oat flour formulation is the same fats mix that I use in ALL of my other formulations... However, no matter HOW I vary the fats (add them remove them, whatever) this OHM soap ALWAYS starts to rice on me and ALWAYS takes FOREVER to trace... What IS it about this soap that slows down the trace? Is it the goat's milk? Curiouser and Curiouser... Sponiebr
  10. So, I'm making a 5+ lb. sump'n batch of CP goats milk, honey, oatmeal, silk with some kaolin and yogurt. I only stopped there 'cause the kitchen SINK wouldn't physically FIT into my pot. Anywho, I kinda have a confession to make... Remember WAY back when, when CS had their $1 sample sale? Well, I might have ordered many samples... (like maybe 72-ish many... ) ANYWAY!!! My "addiction" isn't really a problem and certainly not the point of this post. The point of this post is that I have all of that particular order of FO's in one box, (coincidentally it is the box they were shipped in) and I happened to be reminded of a certain what French call an "I-dunno-what" smell... And then it hit me... All of those fragrances mingling together smelled REMARKABLY LIKE... (WAIT FOR IT!!!!) GARBAGE. Yes. It smells like a farking trash can. I found that terribly interesting and slightly disturbing at the same time... I won't be nearly so quick to pass judgment on the confused state of garbage in the future... AND ANOTHER THING!!!! (I'm suddenly slightly confused on this for some reason) But we can use Stainless Steel to soap in right? I mean... It's not gonna cause DOS or anything right? (PANICKED) Right!??!?! Well, I gotta go take a Valium and soap this mess... See'ya on the other side! Sponiebr: Here. Hold this and watch...
  11. You CAN do this! That's HP stuff... Easy peasey! When I get to work I'll dig out my formulation and post it up for you. It's basically thus: 100% Aloe Vera Juice in place of water. 45% water per pound of oil (yes that is WAY high, I cook the soap at 35% or even 30% water the extra water goes in at the end to assist in making the soap more fluid to pour) GV Shortening Olive Oil Palm Oil Coconut Oil a little Canola Castor oil Made at 0% Super fat and .5 ounce PPO fragrance. (Probably less as HP needs MUCH less fragrance than does CP soap.) I use 5% melted shea butter to super fat the soap AFTER it's through the hot part of the cook. (I add it when I add in my yogurt, fragrance, all that extra water, sodium lactate, and micas) Yogurt is about 50 g PPO. (I vary this A LOT. Sometimes it's 50g per batch, honestly I doubt that it is even necessary but it does gentle up the soap a tad. I never use more than say 100 g of my little frozen bricks of yogurt in a batch) 1 tsp Sodium Lactate PPO. (no more, no less... This helps get the soap loose enough to pour) Lye gets a large wad of chopped up tussah silk and 1 tbls PPO white sugar mixed in and completely dissolved. Ain't noth'n to it, you CAN do this Moonie! NOW GET IN THERE AND GIT SOME!!!!! Sponiebr: ThE eXecutor of BAd iDeAs and Sundry Services
  12. I have only used Farnam brand (which is what's in your picture), and it works just fine, but yeah, you gotta warm it up in fat first. Feed stores down here in my part of Florida only seem to carry Farnam pine tar, as I have NEVER seen ANYOTHER brand of pine tar in Florida in my entire life, (I used to work at a feed store when I was a kid, and I saw A LOT of feed stores in my life). Also, if you let your fats cool too much Farnam Pine tar WILL settle out and stick to the bottom of your container so if you intend to let your fats cool a little before adding the lye MAKE SURE you keep the pine tar side stirred. (Ask me how I know....) Out of curiousity, what is your normal brand of pine tar Candy?
  13. Ok so last night was the first night I've been back to work... Sorry it took so long: here's the cut! -Sponiebr
  14. AFAIK The PKO and the Palm Kernel Oil Flakes are the same, it's just that the flakes are a little easier to manage esp in cold climates. IIRC One's a block and the other is in flake form. (There is also a hydrogenated PKO, and that's a different beast...)
  15. If all y'all would take a look at this esp: @ChrisR@KrazeKelly, I don't want to steer Moonie wrong here, and I've never made neem oil soap before, but I kept the 25% neem like Chris detailed... BTW: does neem accelerate or anything or is it a well behaved oil? I'm just suggesting this as a good basic Walmart available oils cheap soap. Anywho your comments and input would be greatly appreciated. Humbly (YES HUMBLY) submitted, Sponiebr: (They're not ALL bad ideas...)
  16. Hey Moonie, Well, you could get your PKO from somewhere like Brambleberry which will sell you a small quanty of PKO (2 lbs.) https://www.brambleberry.com/Palm-Kernel-Flakes-P3446.aspx But to be totally honest 7 lbs. is NOT that much PKO, (it's about a gallon). And you could get your babassu oil from BB as well... Come on! Stick with it! CP is NOT difficult, I mean you CAN make it difficult, and you CAN make it an ungodly expensive endeavor, but soapmaking is neither in itself expensive nor difficult. I'm very much the cheap bastard when it comes to soapmaking. I very RARELY buy "real soap making tools". There are exceptions: Your scale, you NEED THIS, don't skimp on your scale, and baby it as though it were your most prized possession. I use this scale https://www.amazon.com/My-Weigh-KD-8000-Kitchen-Digital/dp/B01C6CN1VY/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1491844491&sr=1-2&keywords=kd8000+scale Stick Blender, GET ONE! I use this one and it's just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Proctor-Silex-59738A-Proctor-Silex-Blender/dp/B00TJTASYG/ref=dp_ob_title_kitchen, Apart from that, everything else can be pretty much gotten from Dollar Tree and from Walmart. This is just a suggestion, but (and I've never worked with neem before) you might just wing down to Walmart and snag some oils: GV Shortening, NOT THE 100% Vegetable the OTHER one in the BLUE can, You could use Bakerite as it's the same as the GV Shortening. Coconut Oil: the 2 pack of Luanna is the best deal. GV Classic Olive Oil the 101 ounce jug is the best deal, just skip the Extra Virgin Olive oil, it's not really needed and it's slightly more expensive. Humeco Castor Oil: 6 ounce bottles over in the Health Care section sitting by the Milk of Magnesia and Metamucil. That's usually what I put into my soaps up there.... I do use more exotic stuff like palm oil now, but those are the basics. And when my supply of BrambleBerry Coconut oil and Palm Oil run out, if I can't get in on some sort of SUPER sale I'll just go back to buying my oils from Wallyworld. Also you might want to start with making up some regular soap to learn the methods and how fast things move, what thin trace looks like, what it looks like when you HAVE TO GET THE SOAP INTO THE MOLD NOW! OMG!!!!!!! NOOOO!!!!!!!! (Whew, I can't believe I saved it) looks like... If you'd like post your formularion of your neem oil soap I'll see if I can work up a version that doesn't need "exotic" oils. It's up to you. HTH, Sponiebr: The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services (It's REALLY a LOT of fun!)
  17. Trappeur, I was in fact making an "artsy" "one-off" kind of soap... (snerk.... sorry! I'm a BAD BOY... I just HAD to though! ) I would elaborate though on this soap, because you might actually like a silk soap for yourself, it's VERY luxurious and VERY artsy...(must fight the urge...) Ahem, as I was saying, basically there is a way to dissolve silk fibers into the soap while it's being made and this imparts the silk protein to the soap which is just really dang nice stuff to rub all over yer naughty bits... (Why do you think I make it!? ) Silk soaps are da bomb! Look for them in a nearby real online (but not brick and mortar) store sometime maybe soon or in the far distant future. Where have I been? Well, you already heard about the wreck... So my new car has turned me into a full time mechanic, and by full time mechanic, I mean EVERY SINGLE SPARE MINUTE I have has been under that oh-it's-perfect-there's-nothing-wrong-with-it-except-a-bad-temperature-gauge-in-the-instrument-cluster-I-checked-it-out-thoroughly-it's-a-great-car-you-can-trust-me-I'm-your-mechanic, since I bought the damned thing. Sunday, for example, I was running low on fuel, so I had to rebuild the evap canister (yes I actually rebuilt it). Now, because of my modifications to a disposable (a VERY EXPENSIVE disposable) component, I can rebuild the damned thing if it ever goes wonky again! It took 11 hours start to finish to basically remake that evap can. So I guess to answer your question Trapp... I've been hiding under a car against my will. How're you? Slainte Sponiebr THE executor of, (nope... Strike that! Do over!) Sponiebr: Grease Monkee, (HeY HeY he's a Monkee!!!)
  18. Unlike TT... I lick my soap, like a SICK version of Mr. Wimple... o.O Don't judge me... (STAHPIT! You ARE judging me! I can FEEL it!) Well, I USED to lick my soap. I do the wet finger in the ear thing like J and TT describe. O.o mebbe... What does it feel like? Well, it feels like putting a caustic substance onto a very sensitive bit of your anatomy... You won't WONDER if there is actually any free lye still loose, it's not what I consider "unpleasant" unless I don't wash it off... Then YEAH it eff'n HURTS just like being burned, which is coincidentally exactly what happened. Come on Debra! Get in there and git some! LICK IT! LICK THE SOAP! It's better'n skittles cause instead of tasting the rainbow you see stars! I'm kidding... Snot that bad... Sponiebr: THE Executor of Bad Idea and Sundry Services.
  19. Oh... You will! I'll eventually find 45 seconds available and get a picture of it, (It's not all that great TBH...), I've just gotta find those 45 seconds where I'm not working on my frigg'n "Oh-it's-in -perfect-shape-there's-nothing-wrong-with-it-but-a-bad temperature-gauge" car... o.O I'll get there... -Sponiebr
  20. AMEN TT!!!!! Hells YEAH! Push the envelope! Better yet! Push some money into the envelope!!! Then PUSH That flap CLOSED!!! Oh!Push that stamp onto the envelope!!!! Take that pen and PUSH my address onto the front of the envelope! Then you PUSH that ENVELOPE right INTO THE BIG BLUE MAIL BOX!!!! PUSH IT!!!!!!! Push it real good... (wait... a Salt'n'Pepa reference!? REALLY? Wow. I'm one upping myself on the bad ideas... SHEESH!!!) -Sponiebr: the exce... Ah, push it (ow, get up on this)! o.O
  21. Some smarty words? "Feel the Bern..." o.O Mebbe not...
  22. It's pretty small. I've got one label for the back with the blurb and the ingredients and one for the front with: "Name" Hand Crafted Bath Soap Net weight____oz. My name; mailing address, state, zip. I need a bigger label, all in good time...
  23. Yeah, YOU know the ONE... BOW... BOW... OOOOOOOHHHHHH YEAAAAAAAAHHHH! Burst of energy tweaked up with a little sweet pea... FHTHP with Aloe, Silk, Yogurt, and SF at 5% with Shea Butter. DAMN it was NICE to clean up that mess!!!! I didn't use gloves to wash up the crock or the spoons and my hands are actually CLEAN for the first time in 2 weeks, and they FEEL SO nice! o.O (yanno whut I mean...Right?) O.O I'll go away now... -Sponiebr: Bad inc!
  24. I know! It's just feels so, so.... WRONG though!!! OMG! Is this what Free Will feels like!? O.O WOW!!!!!
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