Lori

I had some issues with my last few batches of candles. Cavity/air pockets around the wicks... but not visible from the surface. Say you pour 40 candles, how many should you test burn to know the batch is good?

So you can poke holes in a candle that's been cured for over a month? The only thing that's happening with the couple I've tested are that they put themselves out within 15 minutes of the first burn.

What do you do when you have tons of candles and can't tell the difference between the ones are fine, and a few duds? The tops all look beautiful, such a drag!

I've tried just about every wick and find that HTP works best for me in C3.

I have a really strange thing that's just started to happen with my 7oz candles. They look beautiful, but seem to have a developed gap inside (near the wick) that's causing them to self extinguish. I've been making candles for a couple of years and thought that I had everything down... Now I have all of these candles and have no idea which ones are fine and which ones might have a cavity... HELP!

Over the weekend, our office lost its air conditioning in our section of the building. I have tons of finished candles and wonder how hot is too hot for them to sit before the heat becomes an issue. Of course we're having a heatwave this week! Right now, the thermometer is reading 86 degrees.

@TrappeurYou're the perfect person to respond. I use C3 with HTP wicks in a 7oz straight sided glass jar. I kept the area free of drafts. I'm thinking I might need to wick down one on the Vanillin fragrances, or just live with it. It just looks so dirty!

Hello, has anyone ever seen this happen with certain fragrance oils. Both candles have the same wax and wick, just different FO. It seems to happen with the FO's that have Vanillin. I'd say they burn similar, maybe the candle with the soot pool burns slightly hotter.

I am amazed at how many people tell me they didn't know they needed to trim the wick, or that they shouldn't burn for an entire day!

What is the best way to get a reading on a container? When my candle gets very low, within the 1/2 inch of the bottom of the jar, I can touch the jar towards the bottom, but it gets hotter up towards the top, a little too hot to hold.

@bfroberts quick question. I am considering switching to permatex. Right now I'm using a glue gun and warm the jars before adding the glue/wick for better glass adhesion. I assume I will have to skip this step?

@birdcharm I just had an idea. Instead of getting all new wicks, I can just buy the 6mm or 9mm sustainer base and just cut off the 3mm. I guess that's a start!

@birdcharm I couldn't agree more, and couldn't believe what I was seeing! I guess there are people out there that just have no clue. Freaked me out a bit! The last thing we ever want to do it create something extra hazardous! As far as the base, it's definitely a 3mm. It figures I just ordered a bag of 500. I guess I'll have to upgrade. Do you ever make your own? @TallTayl do you mean the bottom of the tab not being glued down enough, or the crimp in the neck? I usually buy my wicks from Candlewic, I just examined the neck and it doesn't seem super crimped.

Thanks kandlecrazy. I see mixed reviews on so many different brands. Can you recommend the best you've come across?

Hello, I received a call yesterday from a local customer that the jar cracked on one of the candles they were using as a tester in their store. Since they were local, I was able to run over to see for myself what the problem was. It appeared that the wick moved and was up against the glass. It made the label singe a bit and also shattered the glass. One thing I noticed was that there were about 5 matches in the jar! It looks like the store owner actually has been lighting the candles, then throwing the match right in with the wax. ???!!! I use a high temp glue gun, and haven't noticed this happening with any of my testers, and haven't received this feedback from anyone else. Now I am mildly freaking that I have candles out there that might be prone to having the wick move. I read one thread stating that the wick should extinguish itself when it gets to a certain point, but I've tested candles and see that they can burn to the point of most wax being gone. So, I guess that's one issue, and the other is the moving wick. I see that people use silicone, but up until yesterday, thought the glue gun was doing its job. I imagine glue dots would behave the same as the glue gun...

Hello! It's an 8oz straight sided jar. This weekend tried to up the wick one size, and am still determining whether it is going to work. I'm noticing that one of the main issues seems to be how much the HTP's curl. One side of the class is cleaner than the other. Are you able to achieve a clean burn with your C3? I've ordered soy candles from other companies to see how they burn, and am wondering if it's the wax... I also have a 16oz jar that's been a total nightmare to wick. Seems like the 105 is too small, but the 1212 looks like a blowtorch, and mushrooms too much. I'm pulling my hair out! My smaller jar is amber, so it's not quite as offensive to see some wax on the jar, but the clear glass doesn't look so hot.

Maybe this will give a better view. I blew it out a little while ago. I just don't know if going up to 104 would help or not. I know HTP wicks tend to curl

Well, the one I am testing right now has only cured for 2 days. It seems to be burning better than the one I showed earlier in the thread. It's been burning for about 4 hours (attached pics). The other, pictured in the post above sat much longer, probably a couple of months, and I've been testing it off and on. Am I beating my head agains the wall expecting the same results every time? When do we just say, this is the best we can do...??

I did the 4 hour test, and it burned almost to the edges. The jar is just at 2 3/4. I could go up one, but I remember this past summer that it seemed a little too big when I went up to the next size. I always err on the side of caution, and never want to worry that a flame is too big. The 93 worked well when it was warm out, but now that the weather has gotten cooler, seems like it could use the larger wick.

No, it's not that cold out yet, just seems like a difference between summer and winter burning. Do you think the burn picture above is looking bad?

I posted this to another thread, but wasn't sure if it would be buried, sorry if repeating. Hi there, I have question to add to this topic. I started candle making this past spring, and after much testing, found that the HTP 93 wick was the perfect wick for C3 and the jar I'm using. I live in New Jersey, and am just entering into colder, dryer weather. I made 60 candles this past week to get ready for a show, and when I tested a couple of my candles, suddenly, after months of the 93's working perfectly, they're now not giving me a full burn pool. UGH!!!!! I am so frustrated. I can't imagine that I need to wick for weather... help. I am starting to question the wax. It's almost like the flame isn't as big now AND the wax is not burning out to the edges. When I wicked up one in the summer, it was too big. I'm so upset. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there, I have question to add to this topic. I started candle making this past spring, and after much testing, found that the HTP 93 wick was the perfect wick for C3 and the jar I'm using. I live in New Jersey, and am just entering into colder, dryer weather. I made 60 candles this past week to get ready for a show, and when I tested a couple of my candles, suddenly, after months of the 93's working perfectly, they're now not giving me a full burn pool. UGH!!!!! I am so frustrated. I can't imagine that I need to wick for weather... help. I am starting to question the wax. It's almost like the flame isn't as big now AND the wax is not burning out to the edges. When I wicked up one in the summer, it was too big. I'm so upset. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

How do you get the candles out of the containers? I have tried to do that in the past by freezing, but it was a nightmare.

I think those are great ideas and honestly feel much better doing what you suggest, rather than selling something that makes me nervous. Thank you so much for the feedback!!

I have just started selling and had a panic attack when I realized what I did. I have been burning one today and it seems fine. If you look really close, it looks like there are tiny pinpoint seep spots, but I would imagine most wouldn't put it under the microscope like I would. I was more worried about it being dangerous. On the Cargill handling instructions, it says that if you do 10% you need to use an additive to stabilize the fragrance. Stabilize it from seeping, or stabilize it from catching fire??