GrayMaire

I get wet spots and sink holes, and sometimes I get big holes under the surface around the wick. I notice these things way more when my shop is cold - it's a separate building and I have to keep the heat turned down very low unless I'm actually in there working. It helps if I put a cardboard box over them after pouring. I've also been pouring hotter (thanks to a tip I read here), at 180 or so. It seems to give me smoother tops. I smooth things out with a heat gun too, but I'm having trouble keeping the wick looking nice when I do that. I can't seem to keep the heat off it, and it singes it a bit. I tried covering the wick, but it didn't seem to help. I test burn 24-48 hours after pouring, and the throw is usually pretty good even that soon. It improves with aging too. Lori

Gotta agree - looks like they're in containers to me too.

I made one similar to Eugenia's too - only mine is made with 3/4-inch PVC pipe and fittings so I can take it apart to store it. I use the full-spectrum daylight bulbs in 3 clamp-on lamps, 1 on each side and 1 on the top - no camera flash. My pictures are still a bit yellow, and I have to fix 'em up in Paintshop Pro X. The fluorescents may make for a brighter picture than the daylight bulbs - might have to try that (thanks BizzyBs!). Lori

I've only ordered from them once so far - I thought they were great to work with. I had some email communications with them, and they answered right away. Shipping was fast and reasonably priced. Their product was great as well. I know there are others here that use them - maybe they'll see this thread and add some input. Lori

Hot throw already? That's great! My wax pulls away from the neck of the square Mason jar too - like yours did. Mine seems to happen when the room isn't warm enough, but if you put it in the oven... not sure? Hopefully some of the soy experts will come in and give you some ideas on this stuff. When I get a wick off center like that, I use a skewer and nudge it to center when the pool is deep enough to allow it to be pushed over. Your candle looks really pretty. Lori

Thanks for making up this chart! Great information! It's too bad you weren't able to post the Excel file, but it's still a lot of good information in one handy spot! Thanks again! Lori

Sounds like you did good to me! What did you use for FO and color? Can't wait to see these! I've had lots of wicks pull out of the tabs after I stuck them down in the jars - frustrating! Now I give them an extra squeeze with my needle-nose pliers before I stick 'em in the jar! (that's if I remember to do it!) As for curing - I have no idea on this wax. I use a para-soy blend. I did some 100% soy candles last year and waited about a week to burn them. You can burn right away to test the wicks, but most soy seems to need a cure period for the best test on its scent throw. Maybe Holly or Carrie or another soy user will be back soon to fill us in on that for sure. Lori

You're welcome for the tip - learned that here! I just reviewed the thread and realized you're using the 93 in both jars. I'd do what Carrie suggests for wicks, try twisting them 2 or 3 times before putting them in the jar, and then burn all the way down. Both jars get hotter during the second (bottom) half of the burn, especially the square mason (mine do anyway). You might even want to pour 2 square masons, 1 with a 104 and 1 with a 105, just to see the difference in how they do all the way to the end. If it was me, I'd also add some FO so that's getting tested at the same time - might as well have a finished candle when you're all done.

I'm just curious here... have you ever tried twisting the wick a few times before putting them in the jar? When I was testing the HTPs and CDs I tried that and it did seem to even out the burn and was easier to do than offsetting the wick. (These wicks gave me a lot of soot in my wax, however, so I quit testing with them.) In looking at the pictures of those 2 candles burning, it looks like the square Mason is melting a bit to one side - maybe twisting the wick would get it to burn more evenly for you. (They get quite a bit hotter farther down in the jar too.) Just a thought... Lori

Man, Holly - I need some of those contacts! I can't see the cracks either, although I see some sort of irregularity where you describe it. TLC - FWIW, although I don't use this wax, I get cracks and other oddities from the room temperature being too cold after I pour. I also have an outside shop that I have to turn the heat down in when I'm done, and it gets down around 50 - 53 degrees at night. When it's warmer, I don't have these problems. For me, warming the jars themselves doesn't seem to make much difference. Lori

It is weird how they'll break like that! Glad I'm not the only one! StephD - you'll have to post your results! I'd be interested to know what you figure out! Lori

Back when I canned everything my family ate, about 1500 jars a year, I had the occasional jar that just broke for seemingly no reason - always after filling it and putting it through the processor. Those of us who can food just consider it part of the game... jars break sometimes. It can happen with any type of canning jar. Of course, these jars get used over and over, year after year. A lot of the times when they broke, it was the bottom breaking off from the rest of the jar with no apparent defect in the jar beforehand. With so much coming from China now, I wonder what the standards are for making things like canning jars... Lori

You're welcome, of course! I can't remember what we were talking about either now! Jeesh! 'Spose I'll have to go look... :embarasse I'm glad you mentioned about the CB-30 changing... I have a slab of that here and was going to try it for my Creme Brulee FO that's giving me fits in 6006... but my slab is over a year old. So if I tested that slab, it would probably be different than what I'd get if I ordered more now (since it changed in the last year or so). Bummer! Have a great rest-of-the-weekend! Lori

Hi Holly! That's great news about the wax at Swan's! I'll be interested in your results too! And you are SO right about the shipping to us here! Not to mention having to wait a week for stuff from back east - that's almost worse than the cost of the shipping sometimes! Lori

This is what I thought too, although I start testing them at 48 hours. If the scent isn't strong at that point, I put the lids back on and wait a few more days. I try to keep enough made up each week so I always have some testers to play with.

WWanda - 1 ounce per pound is just about right at 6%, 1.5 ounces per pound right about 9%. It would be interesting if you post your results with the LXs too. Lori

Exactly what's happening to me, but usually when I don't trim wicks short enough, sometimes even when I do though. I've been doing the same wick up and down routine, only with cotton instead of CDs. It seems to happen more with creme brulee than any other FO. I went down to 8% with it, and that was better. (usually use 9%) I'm starting to think (maybe I'm slow?) that it's the FO load that's causing the soot. Lori

You're very welcome! This is exactly how I did it until I made the commitment to use my Presto only for wax! That method worked great too. Interesting reading on your burn tests - keep posting! I use zincs with most of my FOs so far and they seem to work pretty well, although if the wick isn't trimmed to 1/4 inch, I get soot! I wasn't getting any soot last summer when I first started using this wax... cooler temps now maybe? Zinc wicks maybe? I don't know... I see more testing in my future! I've been trying something mentioned by Carole on the temp forum - pouring hotter, around 180. Seems to help get a smoother top. Thanks, Carole! Lori

Hi Howard! I get a great hot throw with 6006 without having to wait for it to cure... and it gets even better over time too. I use a Presto Pot, then pour into a pour pot. Then to keep the heat up while adding the FO and dye (when used), I place my pour pot in a double-boiler type of setup with an electric fry pan full of water kept at about 180-200. Works just fine. Lori

This is a great idea! Thanks! Lori

You're welcome, Chris! I like doing the packaging part... but I'm not doing a whole heckuva lot yet either. I imagine those drawstring bags are going to be cheaper at some of the packaging suppliers too. Cheers! Lori

Maybe this is what you're looking for? http://www.labelsbythesheet.com/items/clear-labels~laser-gloss-/list.htm Lori

Hi Chris, I package my melts in cello bags. For 1 to a bag: 3 x 5-1/2-inch bags from AH/RE or Cierra. For 6 to a bag: 4 x 5-inch drawstring plastic bags from KY. HTH a little Lori

Great new section! I do lots of stuff - gotta have variety or I get bored. Besides B&B and now candles, I do knitting, crochet, embroidery (especially crazy quilting), sewing, tole painting, drawing, stained glass, passionate gardening. Oh yeah, can't forget the ongoing home decorating! Lori

Thanks for the link! These look great, but do you know if the rubber bulb will stand up to dye? I've tried a couple of things and had the dyes I use eat right through them. I get mine from Bramble Berry, and they don't identify what type they are... :undecided Lori