2nd batch of CP soap...very interesting results, and a question or two

[GailC]

I bought a silicone loaf pan from Goodwill for 99 cents! Of course, the sides bowed out when I poured in the soap, so I had the bright idea to use rubber bands around the pan, as you can see, with mixed results.

The soap slipped right out of the pan this time. And I didn't have to wait a few days. YAY! Thanks to whoever recommended mineral oil. Also this batch looks smoother than the last one. I used less olive oil, and added sweet almond oil to my recipe, plus a few other little changes.

I wasn't satisfied with the strength of the scent last time, so this time I used 1.5 oz of FP per pound of oil (vanilla). Then I worried I'd used too much. When I peeked during gelling, I was astonished to see the loaves had turned dark brown! I was further astonished when I cut it and the inside was much lighter. Kind of cool, really, but the bars are so uneven...I'm debating whether I should try to trim the sides.

The bar on the top left I just left out, and didn't cover it, what a difference between gelled and ungelled! (The brown bar on the top is the end of the loaf.) The specks in the soap are dried chamomile.

So my questions...what's the maximum amount of FO you use per pound. I don't use essential oil, since I'm trying to use up some of the vast amounts of FO I've bought for candles.

Since I used 20% olive oil, do you think possibly this soap will be cured enough in 4 weeks? I'm having a fundraiser for a friend with cancer on April 21.

Do you think all that vanilla FO is what turned the outside of the loaves so dark, or is it just something that happens during gelling?

Well, I'm off to cut the other loaf! Hoping it doesn't turn out as uneven as a loaf of Velveeta when I cut it. :smiley2: But hey, I didn't do half bad on the first one.

Edited March 23, 2012 by GailC

[KrazeKelly]

I use 1oz per lb of FO. The vanilla is what made the outside darker and now that you have cut them, the inside will probably turn dark also as they cure. Can't help with the cure time. I let mine cure at least 4 weeks before I test one, if I think it's ready. Some get harder quicker, some take longer. Just depends. I have some that I used the exact same recipe on and one batch is very soft and another batch is much harder, so you'll just have to wait and see.

[TallTayl]

1.5 oz PPO is pretty high., What is the manufacturer's usage rate for soap?

The darkening is normal for vanilla - any fragrance with vanilla/vanillin will turn dark brown. You will see the entire surface of each bar turn over the next few days. The darkening progresses through the bar until, eventually, the whole thing is a uniform brown.

Sometimes the lather will be brown from the vanilla.

[GailC]

I used 'Vanilla Smoothie' from Indiana Candle Supply. It said 'skin safe' but the site doesn't have any info on recommended usage amounts. I also used a one ounce sample of Brambleberry's Vanilla Oak.

They have a fragrance calculator; you're supposed to enter the amount of ounces you want to scent. I don't know if that is just the amount of oils, or if you include the ounces of water you'll use. Which would make quite a difference in total ounces of soap to scent.

Another thing about this batch of soap; it was as smooth and shiny on the sides and bottom as M&P soap. So different from my first batch. I really like how it turned out so far. I don't mind the brown. Really looks homemade! Now to wait and see how it works as soap!

I would like to make a pretty color of CP soap one of these days though...instead of brown and tan.

[GailC]

So....what if I trim the soap bars to make them rectangular, remelt the scraps, add a little cocoa butter, and a spoonful of cocoa powder?

I've been searching "rebatch" and trying to figure out how to do it, and thought, why not just experiment a little with the scraps of soap?

[chuck_35550]

You can use vanilla destabilizer and titanium dioxide but eventually the soap will turn. I look fo suppliers that state they don,'t accelerate or discolor and read reviews. Natures garden tells you the maximum % to use and is reliable and cost effective. HTH

Steve

[TallTayl]

trimming for aesthetics would be fine. Just know that the remaining bars will eventually turn equally brown.

WRT the scraps and rebatching, you won't need cocoa powder. The soap will brown all on its own. No need to add to the brown lather potential.

[Pam W]

here is a link to Soap Queen's rebatch tutorial. In this tutorial, AnneMarie uses the double boiler method but there are others ways to melt the soap - Oven & microwave. I use the oven for larger batches and the micro for smaller batches.

http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/soap-queen-tv-presents-how-to-make-rebatch-soap-2/

[GailC]

Thanks, everyone. Yes, I've decided I'd better not try the cocoa powder. Thanks for the link for rebatching. I will just have a small amount, so will just melt it in the microwave.

Or, I may just give away the scraps for samples. (to my friends and family.) Sounds much easier!

Thanks for the Nature's garden tip also, Steve. I'm trying to use the skin safe fragrance oil I already have on hand since I'm 61 and probably only have twenty good years or so to use it all up. :smiley2:

I did buy some more Lavender Vanilla FO from the Candlemaker's store though. I had a 1 oz sample of that, and used it in a batch of M&P and boy, it smells so wonderful, I had to get some more.

[GailC]

Well, packaging makes a big difference; makes ugly soap look prettier! My brown vanilla chamomile soap lathers wonderfully, feels very silky and smells very nice. 3 out of 4 is not bad!

[Candybee]

Now those are pretty!!!

[Meridith]

I use anywhere from .7 to 1 oz ppo depending on the fragrance oil. 4 weeks is a good cure unless its a castile soap, then I cure for at least 6 months. Your soaps will continue to shrink even though you've packaged them already. Personally, I would have waited longer to wrap them to ensure my label had the correct weight. This is your 2nd batch of soap and you are already selling?

[GailC]

I use anywhere from .7 to 1 oz ppo depending on the fragrance oil. 4 weeks is a good cure unless its a castile soap, then I cure for at least 6 months. Your soaps will continue to shrink even though you've packaged them already. Personally, I would have waited longer to wrap them to ensure my label had the correct weight. This is your 2nd batch of soap and you are already selling?

Thanks, Meridith. I didn't put a weight on my label. They're not all exactly the same weight because I just cut them the best I could, but for $3.00 a bar, people can pick out which ever size and shape they want. I'm just selling these in my home for a fundraiser for a friend with breast cancer who doesn't have health insurance. I don't claim to be a professional soaper.

Some of my friends and family as well as myself have tried the soap in the past couple of days, and we haven't broken out or anything.

[GailC]

Now those are pretty!!!

Thanks Candybee! Well the packaging is cute I think anyway.

[Meridith]

Thanks, Meridith. I didn't put a weight on my label. They're not all exactly the same weight because I just cut them the best I could, but for $3.00 a bar, people can pick out which ever size and shape they want. I'm just selling these in my home for a fundraiser for a friend with breast cancer who doesn't have health insurance. I don't claim to be a professional soaper.

Some of my friends and family as well as myself have tried the soap in the past couple of days, and we haven't broken out or anything.

Selling these for a fundraiser to help a friend out is a very nice gesture and shows a giving heart on your part. But, I'd be careful because you don't have to be holding yourself out as a professional to get sued. I'd just be careful and recommend that a person truly know what they are doing and have insurance before selling, even if selling in a fundraiser. I just want to see you have a long successful career enjoying making and selling soap.