Siezing CP soap

[WWJD]

Im having major problems with a certain fragrance. Im making the CP soap. Most of my fragrances work beautiful till pouring, smooth and silky. Certain fragrances cause the process from trace to make it impossible to pour without seizing or abeling the fragrance to be completely mixed. Can I add fragrance before trace? I read to add fragrance with some of my oils to warm up the fragrance? Im worried that the Lye and oils would not be mixed enough causing Lye pockets? Do I need to worry about this?

Thanks

Nooooobie

Edited March 9, 2011 by WWJD

[8-GRAN-ONES]

are you soaping cool?

are you soaping with a discount?

i have used fo's that are know to seize..

i soap cool..and don't discount..

and I mix my fo in my oils and mix well, before adding lye

and use only a hand wisk...to mix everything..

have everything ready...be quick, and get into the mold as soon as you

think everything is mixed well..

good luck...let us know if you try again..how it turns out..

Edited March 9, 2011 by 8-GRAN-ONES

[WWJD]

Thank you for your reply. Well I do the cold process. My oils temps were around 100 degrees (due to the oils needing to be liquified much more) I mix oils with lye to trace then add my fragrance. Are you suggesting adding fragrance to oils, mix, then add lye? and only using a hand mixer oppose to a electronic mixer.

[Scented]

Yet another to add to this:

Are you discounting water? Reason I ask is because fragrances that can cause quick movement should be soaped at full water unless you're comfortable with how quickly your recipe moves.

There are two ways I mix. I combine the oils and lye water together and pull off anything I want to color and then blend in the fragrance. The more common way is that I add my fragrance to the oils and then add the lye water and mix. It just depends on if I'm using a fragrance that's going to discolor or not.

[TallTayl]

What 8-GRAN-ONES said, plus you could try using lecithin to slow things down a bit. I've used the gelcaps available from the vitamin aisle in a pinch. Pierce the gelcaps and squeeze out the goo in the gelcap. Mix about a teaspoon worth per pound of oils into the FO before you add it (whether before or after the lye solution is added). This should give you a few more precious moments to work with it. Depending on the FO it could make all the difference - or none at all.

If the FO is a true bugger, you could also leave the solid mess in the soap pot to gel in there, then move it to your mold. Sometimes you have a chance to give it another good stir before glopping into the mold. It would be similar in texture to an HP. If you truly MUST have the FO, I'd use HP as a last resort.

HTH

[tootie04]

I CPHP any FO that i have questions about....I had my FIRST sieze in 12 years the other week...man is that soap ugly...I may have to do my FIRST rebatch!!

[soy327]

Yet another to add to this:

Are you discounting water? Reason I ask is because fragrances that can cause quick movement should be soaped at full water unless you're comfortable with how quickly your recipe moves.

There are two ways I mix. I combine the oils and lye water together and pull off anything I want to color and then blend in the fragrance. The more common way is that I add my fragrance to the oils and then add the lye water and mix. It just depends on if I'm using a fragrance that's going to discolor or not.

I have a question, but don't want to hijack. I use soapcalc at the default setting 38%. I'm not sure what full water means.

Another newbie:laugh2:

[TexasBrat]

Don't let it get to thick of a trace, pour thin.

[Scented]

I have a question, but don't want to hijack. I use soapcalc at the default setting 38%. I'm not sure what full water means.

Another newbie:laugh2:

Well the 38 on soap calc is considered full water as I've understood it. Reductions from that would be water discounts.

[soy327]

Thanks Scented, I need to do some reading on that subject.

[eugenia]

I do exactly as Gran does, full water, fragrance to oils, room temp, I do use a S/B, but VERY lightly and sometimes not at all, I start with a whisk and pour off my soap for coloring when it's barely mixed.

e

[Monvi33]

I soaped last night and the Fo made it seize. Soaped cool, no discount. First time with this FO, glad I made a small batch. May have to do my first rebatch too!! We'll see what the soap looks like later. Now I know for next time to either not use that FO or work with thinner trace and no stick blender.

[TallTayl]

For new FO's that I've not read any reviews of I'll usually do a single bar test to see how it behaves. Just save a couple of oz of raw soap from a usual batch and add a few drops of the FO to it in a silicone muffin pan.

I tested 45 FO's like this a couple of months ago and blogged to make sure I remembered everything . Used every single silicone mold I had, but was sure worth the effort! It's about time to do the next 45...

[Monvi33]

Thanks for that bit of advice...that's a great idea! I only made a 2 lb batch and checked on it today...looks ok...just not beautiful. I will probably end up re-batching it. But it smells delicious! I used Bert's Tropical Fruit....FYI..it seizes.

[adillenal]

I soaped Bert's Tropical Fruit day before yesterday. It moves fast but I did get it in the mold just in time. Soaped cool. Cut it last night. Already very dark brown but smells delicious. I used 1 oz per PPO so I was pushing it anyway. I used a whisk (I never use a stick blender on soap anyway)