Jump to content

Anybody here making their own silicone molds?


Recommended Posts

I've done it once. Needed to make 60 mini wedding cake votives in about 5 days, with only one mold to use...LOL. I ran across a smaller wedding cake candle that I like better (cheapie poor quality candle but had a nice shape). So I bought a mold making kit and made a half dozen mold from it. Got em done just barely in time! Now the molds are in a box on the shelf. Maybe they'll get used again some day. It was an interesting experience making them though :laugh2:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do plan on making some moulds.

One of the tools that I have available is the ability to make three dimensional models. Those 3d models can be converted to a machine that either builds them out of material (additive prototyping) or cuts into a material to hollow out the shape (subtractive prototyping).

I'm just not yet in possession of a prototyping machine.

A few year ago they cost over $200K.

Last summer I found a few decent machines at or just under $10K. And, surprisingly, a "build your own" for around a thousand. The problem with the build your own was quality.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I get a mould made, it would be for soap. I'm still trying to master container candles before doing anything other type of candle.

One of the tools that I have available is the ability to make three dimensional models.
Those sound so cool! I would love to have one just to play with it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Erico,

Yeah the one under a $1,000 uses a plastic strand extruder so it really doesn't have a smooth texture. The really expensive one like the ones you mentioned before work with a powder that turns solid (works more like an inkjet printer)

I have thought of this before but they're so expensive that it's really to much. I think sculpting your own would be harder but cheaper.

I'm still looking for a nice shape to make a mold out of I want something different for this.

Also making molds out of sheet plastic (vacuum forming) is really really easy. If I find the right shapes I'll probably get on it.

Dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jonsie,

If you would like to make any molds for soap with silicons you have to make sure they're food grade silicone rubber. The regular silicone for casting resins and waxes usually "sweats out" some chemicals which I don't think are skin safe. But I do know that there are food grade silicon rubber for mold making.

What I have on hand is Smooth on silicone rubber. It's just a 1:1 liquid mixture. This ones good for wax casting and some other stuff. The finished product can withstand temps up to 400 deg. F. You can even pour low melt point metals in it to cast.

Dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jonsie,

The programs are a bit involved and you would have to have a passion for computer graphics.

The models that would lend well to candles, like dolphins, cars, flowers, etc., can be found ready made or maybe even professionally done for a small amount of money.

The program that will convert the model to something that a rapid prototyper can use may be obtainable for a few hundred bucks.

www.daz3d.com has a free version of their "Studio" that will let you manipulate a few free models if you want to play. You don't need to render anything, just import the model, learn how to bend or manipulate the shape, and then export in the format that the rapid prototyper can use.

If you want to see some pre-made models, all of which can be converted to prototyping with the right tools, go look at http://www.daz3d.com/i/3d-models/sea?cat=24&_m=d

There are a ton of websites with 3D models. Some quite expensive like www.turbosquid.com and some are free. I think 90 percent of the models available don't lend well at all to candles, unless maybe embeds for gel candles. But there are a few that could be used to enhance a regular pillar mould, etc., like praying hands.

Of course, you can make your own with the right modeling software. That, however, is a discipline that is a bit more challenging than candle making.

Dan, yeah, the cheapies use a plastic wire feed and I looked at the quality at the last SIGGRAPH and it wasn't quite there. I did see a subtractive that uses a dremel tool and did a pretty good job in foam. I think I might investigate that more. Fill the foam cutout with plaster to make a master and there ya go, eh?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jonsie,

If you would like to make any molds for soap with silicons you have to make sure they're food grade silicone rubber. The regular silicone for casting resins and waxes usually "sweats out" some chemicals which I don't think are skin safe. But I do know that there are food grade silicon rubber for mold making.

What I have on hand is Smooth on silicone rubber. It's just a 1:1 liquid mixture. This ones good for wax casting and some other stuff. The finished product can withstand temps up to 400 deg. F. You can even pour low melt point metals in it to cast.

Dan

Thanks for the info, Dan. That is really helpful for me
Jonsie,

The programs are a bit involved and you would have to have a passion for computer graphics.

Of course, you can make your own with the right modeling software. That, however, is a discipline that is a bit more challenging than candle making.

As much fun as it would be to have one of these 3d modelers, it's completely impractical for us right now since we'll probably be moving from Australia to Indonesia within the next couple of years. Otherwise, hubby and I would totally geek over something like that.

Thanks for the links to the websites, those were fun to look through. I noticed some models were available in SolidWorks format, which is what hubby and I have experience with. As for my soap needs, they aren't all that complicated, and probably wouldn't need such a set-up. Basically I just want my logo embossed into a bar of soap. But it is nice to know these options exist.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jonsie,

Even if the model is not made in a format for SolidWorks, you can probably still import it. SolidWorks as I recall has the ability to recognize a relatively large variety of formats and there are other free apps out there that convert to something SW would recognize.

I don't use SolidWorks, my brother does, he's an engineer. I like the less engineer ones and more of the artsy ones like Poser and Bryce and SoftImage.

Best wishes to you. I spent a summer in Irian Jaya up in the mountains at Wamana. I think that has the distinction of being the largest city in the world supplied entirely by air. There is no road to Wamana. Not even a jeep trail. Back in the 90's, there were about 150,000 people living there as I recall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Those strawberries look beautiful! And the apple still looks pretty tasty to me :)

I would like to try it one day. I've got a stack of other projects on my list so it will have to wait, but I do appreciate you sharing your results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've tried it but should have taken my time and done it better. Yours look great. Making them yourself makes you realize that it is not cheap and it does take skill. Much cheaper for me to buy already made.

Well this wasn't that expensive. Are you sure it's cheaper to buy them? I do get your point I guess it might be wrong. The main reason that I made the mold is for the experience itself I'm somewhat of a jack of all trades master at none...and I love to go in as deep into whatever i'm usually working on.

But let me tell you...I bought whats called a trial size amount ( Like 2 pounds of sillicone in separate containers) which was enough for that mold which weighs a 1lb 12 oz and the apple one which is really smaller maybe 6 OZ. It is a durable material you can actually cast low melting point metals in it so it's durable. In the long run it might be cheaper.

But like I said I did it more for the skill than anything else. I don't even like fruit on my candles! But for the block type mold this was the easier thing to pull off.

Dan

P.D. Oh the trial size is $24.95

Edited by Miadrianel Candles
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where did you get the trial kit I would really love to make my own molds.
http://www.reynoldsam.com/

The one I used was OOMOO 25 it has a pot life of 15 min and a cure time of 75 min The 30 has a pot life of 30 min so that will release bubbles better probably and a cure time of 6 hours.

Apart from that they're almost identical but if you decide to use this one make sure it's for block molds only or simple 2 piece block molds the tear strength on them is not great. apart from that if you follow that advice they're way easy to use no degassing or vaccum needed not even a scale mix is 1:1 ratio.

Dan

Edited by Miadrianel Candles
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK. I know nothing, but I am wanting to make a soap mold sometime in the next couple months because the one I want doesnt' exist. What is pot time?

Any other "Things you should know before jumping in" that those of you who have done it before want to share?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

We make 99% of our own molds here. I use Smooth-On for my supplies. A couple things you might want to know, some of the polyurethanes and silicones need a vacuum chamber to reduce the bubbles inside the mold. Another thing we've discovered, with the polyurethane or the silicone, if the candle size is too big, they will get a texture on them, much like the apple picture from up above. It also happens if your mold material is too thick around the outside of the candles. We're reducing it by putting them into the fridge immediately after they've been poured. The molds though are perfect for getting a mottled pillar without refrigerating.

Pot time is the amount of time you have from the point of mixing the catalyst into the base and the time you have to pour it for your mold, if that makes sense. Basically you could substitute "working time" instead of pot time. Cure time is how long it takes to set up. Cure times can vary depending on how much humidity is around and also how warm the room is. Another thing to look for, especially from Smooth-On. They use something called a "shore" in the name of the molding materials. For example, Miadrainel's OOMOO 25 is going to be a softer material than one with a number of 30. To be sure, ask the people you are purchasing from. Another thing to watch for when making your own molds. You can't have major undercuts (for example, stacked up balls like you'd find in a snowman, how the candle would have a V shape into the side) and expect to pull it out without cutting the mold. It's a LOT of trial and error. I've got a slight advantage here. My fiancee is a former plastics engineer, so used a lot of the same things we do now. I'm by no means an expert into it, but I'll share the knowledge that I can!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...