mlomeli Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) So, I'm about to start with my wife and ran into a situation. Have a square pillar mold. Put the wick through the hole, screw and sealer. Now the question...How do I keep it straight and level, when the mold sealer makes things uneven. Am I missing something easy?This is what I'm working withhttp://www.candlescience.com/molds/3x3x3-Square-Pillar-Mold/ Edited January 12, 2011 by mlomeli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharon in KY Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 You'll probable have to set it on a rack, I have only used large wick pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 I have used little balls of mold putty to level. Or matchbooks. Or paper. It helps to have a tiny (6-8") level, but be sure to check from all directions. But I found that no matter what, it's going to be slightly unlevel anyway, so I finish the bottom of the candle (top, when in the mold) after it has cooled by running it on a heated smooth surface. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IwantItgreen Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Either a rack or Popsicle sticks that run parallel to each other. I'm sure you get the idea. Have fun in the mean time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darbla Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Set an empty Velveeta box (or some other kind if that is too flimsy) with the open side up, and set your candle on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlomeli Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Cool, thanks for the tips. My wife figured out that we could use a spare mold and set it on top. Perfect!Wow...it smells good in here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Cool, thanks for the tips. My wife figured out that we could use a spare mold and set it on top. Perfect!Wow...it smells good in here!that could be an accident waiting to happen tho.Sharon's idea of a rack (baking) is good. I use wick pins and lots of plumbers putty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debratant Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 I have a bin filled with rice...you can buy a big bag cheap at the store...and put my molds in there. This requires some finaggling and leveling, but it also keeps leaks contained to the bin should anything leak. I use this bin mainly for angled layered pillars mostly but still usefull for regulars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlomeli Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Thanks all. But isn't the rack method, the same as setting it on a mold? Also, I don't get the wick pins. I've looked online at stores and they seem only used in small votives, which would not be tall enough for larger molds (3+ inches), no?Maybe I'm missing something...Thanks for all the tips so far. This is a great site! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlomeli Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) Ok, I've missed something I see the larger pins, but would I not be in the same situation once I apply the putty (not being level), using those molds? Also, using the pins, I use tabbed wicks instead, right? Edited January 12, 2011 by mlomeli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharon in KY Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) I have a bin filled with rice...you can buy a big bag cheap at the store...and put my molds in there. This requires some finaggling and leveling, but it also keeps leaks contained to the bin should anything leak. I use this bin mainly for angled layered pillars mostly but still usefull for regulars.Great ideal, angles are tough.. Since I only use tabbed wicked I put putty in the hole and then some silver tape. The kind used for furnaces not duct tape. The seal is smooth and permanent has never leaked. I do not use the screw, on the inside I rub off the putty, only leaving a little. Edited January 12, 2011 by Sharon in KY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) Ok, I've missed something I see the larger pins, but would I not be in the same situation once I apply the putty (not being level), using those molds? Also, using the pins, I use tabbed wicks instead, right?I have some flat bottom molds - but my wick pins are concave so I use the plumbers putty to MAKE it level. Once the candle is done, you can wick with either flatbraid or tabbed...it's your choice at that point. Ya just have to prime the FB before inserting. Edited January 13, 2011 by Pam W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuminousBoutique Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 <-- mind blown.. the rice idea.. is freaking smart. THAT is why I LOVE this forum!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Moist sand works well, too. Wick pins work very well, both when used inside the mold and outside. They are not just for votives! I hate mold screws.If I am wicking the mold before pouring, I use the silver ducting tape (as mentioned - SHINY silver, not traditional grey duct tape) and no putty at all.Again, leveling is part of finishing work. I have poured very few pillars that did not require at least minor leveling after pouring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IwantItgreen Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 To ensure you have a "level" candle, do you just eyeball it, or use a level or some other technique? I mean just cause the bottom is flat doesn't mean your candle would be plumb to a 90 angle. Just musing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlomeli Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Awesome tips everyone. Ok, how does one "prime" the flat braid wick. I swear...that's my last question...in this thread:cheesy2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I melt beeswax in a pot and soak my wick in it for 30 seconds or so, at least till I don't see any more air bubbles rising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Like Scented stated, you soak the FB wick in melted wax. Now if you want to go one step further, before the priming wax hardens, twist the wicking and lay it out on a flat surface to dry. Since FB wicks curl and trend to give an uneven burn, the twisting will allow the wick to slowly turn as it burns down. How much to twist the wick is a learning process - but if I power burn a candle with a twisted wick, it will make one complete rotation about every 12hrs.IWantItGreen: just eyeball it then level the finished candle on a hot plate when you're all done. I picked up a couple enamel sauce pans at the Goodwill store that I use for leveling. However, I do have a small level that I use to ensure that my work surface is level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumina Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I have a bucket of sand I use to set my candles in... Keep them level and if they do leak, a lot easier t clean up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 To ensure you have a "level" candle, do you just eyeball it, or use a level or some other technique? I mean just cause the bottom is flat doesn't mean your candle would be plumb to a 90 angle. Just musing...Level refers to horizontal, whereas plumb refers to vertical. You have to measure both if you want a pillar candle to be 90° plumb (so it will burn straight and true right down the middle). Of course, if one sets a pillar on an unlevel surface, it won't matter how accurate the pillar is itself. That's why I choose to burn my pillars in hurricanes with an inch or so of sand in the bottom... I can "seat" the candle to be plumb with the surface the 'cane is placed on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactusladycandles Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 This may seem strange to some, but this is what I do for the round molds. Might also work for the square molds. I use the lids off the peanut butter, the 28oz size or larger. I put plumbers putty in the lid and then put the mold in and turn it until it is tight and then level it before pouring the wax. This method also keeps any leaks from happening. I keep the lids filled with plumbers putty in zip lock bags to keep the putty soft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orchid Lake Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 You may be just so done with this, as another option, we use cookie cutters. They aren't very tall and we haven't had any stability issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlomeli Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 Wow, so many diy'ers when it comes to this. Awesome tips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Wow, so many diy'ers when it comes to this. Awesome tips!You have to find what works for you. Setting the mold in a bowl of rice certainly works well however for me, I'd rather not waste ANY amt of wax. If a little wax leaks out of my molds, I capture it and throw it back in the pot for the final pour..........I waste nothing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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