CP vs HP?

[Reg]

I am absolutely new to soap making. I tried HP method a few days ago, and made a batch of CP soap just a few minutes ago. Now I am wondering which method is the preferred and why, please post your opinions.

[LuminousBoutique]

I love both.

I love HP because I can use the soap right away... of course I always let it dry for a few weeks but I like that when I am washing out my crock or pot its not raw soap. But, with HP I cant get the gorgeous swirls I can with CP.. and its much harder to layer and do pretty things with, because it cools so quickly. Its harder to get the fantastic smooth texture.

I love CP because I can make it so darn pretty! Swirls, layers... I love how smooth and pretty it is.

Both are great, imo.. its really up to personal taste and I do both.

[leisa2003]

All the same reasons as above.

Adding; that I like hp for one other reason- I have children who think because mom is making it, it is safe for kids,..so I like hp because I don't have cp soap sitting somewhere for weeks to cure.

[Kitn]

I do CP and prefer it. If I have to have soap done asap I will do HP.

[LuminousBoutique]

so I like hp because I don't have cp soap sitting somewhere for weeks to cure.

yes yes.. this too for sure, I run out of "high" shelves for CP

[kyme1911]

OK, well I have been watching a bunch of You tube soaper videos. I came across one that did her soap like CP, swirls and all. Poured in a wood log mold, and put it in a 170 degree oven ( I think she said for an Hour) then let it set over night in the oven (cooling down). What process is this called? I thought that was interesting...

[LeahRB]

It is called CPOP(cold process oven process). You make the soap like you would for CP, but then pour into molds and warm it at a low temperature in the oven.

[kyme1911]

It is called CPOP(cold process oven process). You make the soap like you would for CP, but then pour into molds and warm it at a low temperature in the oven.

Well then is that not the best of both worlds? It seams to combine both?

[Sister Kya]

Not quite. Unless there's a trick I haven't yet learned, the CPOP soaps still need to complete the saponification process and cure out after they come out of the oven.

HP completes saponification before it hits the mold. CPOP is (unless, as I say, I missed something) just a way to force gel on CP soaps.

[Reg]

All the same reasons as above.

Adding; that I like hp for one other reason- I have children who think because mom is making it, it is safe for kids,..so I like hp because I don't have cp soap sitting somewhere for weeks to cure.

So how long does CP soap stay caustic, just first few days, or all those 4-6 weeks while it's curing? (I have kids too)

[Faerywren]

I do HP and like it. I like that I don't have to worry about FO's that move too fast, no seizing, ricing or soap on a stick. I can use less FO, and no morphing! I can swirl and layer my HP, because I take steps to keep it thinner consistency, not waxy and gloppy. Is my CP prettier? Depends on who's looking at it.

Edited June 29, 2010 by Faerywren

[candlemama]

I have been doing both and haven't decided which I like better! I like HP for all the reasons mentioned above. Plus, I also have small children and was really worried about the whole lye thing until I finally gave it a try. So HP is nice because once I mix my oils and lye, I just throw the pot in the oven and don't have to worry about caustic soap and my children. Plus, I can use less FOs with HP and even use ones than cannot be used in CP.

CP does need to complete the saponification process and cure longer than HP, but (please correct me if I'm wrong) I think the saponification process really only lasts a couple of days in most cases. So I just make sure my mold full of CP batter is up high away from my kids while it is setting. Then I place all my bars, whether CP or HP, high on shelves to cure.

And I know this is a no no, but I have gotten raw soap batter on my hands when making CP, and to be honest, I did not get burned as I was expecting. I've also used some of my CP soap right out of the mold to wash my hands with to check for bubbles/lather. In either case, my hands just felt dry and a little red -- no ugly lye burns or blisters!

My first couple of CP batches will be ready in a week or so after their 6-week cure, so I haven't actually compared a fully cured CP bar with an HP bar yet and cannot comment on which performs better. I have read that CP has better texture and lather but don't know if this is true or not.

HTH

[Billie]

I mostly CP but will HP occasionally too. I haven't mastered gorgeous looking HP as some here have.

[Reg]

I do HP and like it. I like that I don't have to worry about FO's that move too fast, no seizing, ricing or soap on a stick. I can use less FO, and no morphing! I can swirl and layer my HP, because I take steps to keep it thinner consistency, not waxy and gloppy. Is my CP prettier? Depends on who's looking at it.

How do you keep HP soap thinner consistency?

[Barbara AL]

I keep mine HP thinner by holding out an ounce of water and adding it at the end of the cook.

Barb

[Faerywren]

How do you keep HP soap thinner consistency?

I always use full water. For example, the soap calc on The Sage will give you a range of water to use for a recipe, say 8-12 ounces, I use the 12. Cook on the lowest setting, as this keeps the water from evaporating. (I watch my crock like a hawk so it doesn't overcook) and when it's done I take the crock out and add glycerin to my batch, stir it around then add my FO's, then colors. If it's a single color batch, I add the color to my base oils before the cook (some pigments don't work this way, though).

Barbs way of saving some water for after the cook is good, too. I do my milk soaps like that. But remember if the water is cold it will turn the soap waxy the instant it touches it. I glop (for lack of a better term) into the mold while still pretty hot and the insulation keeps it melty for a long time. I will come by and touch my molds hours later and they are still warm. I think that helps with the smoother appearance, too.

Some people add sugar to their recipe to keep the soap hotter, but I just work fast and don't let it cool down to begin with after the cook. Hope that makes sense!

[Reg]

I always use full water. For example, the soap calc on The Sage will give you a range of water to use for a recipe, say 8-12 ounces, I use the 12. Cook on the lowest setting, as this keeps the water from evaporating. (I watch my crock like a hawk so it doesn't overcook) and when it's done I take the crock out and add glycerin to my batch, stir it around then add my FO's, then colors. If it's a single color batch, I add the color to my base oils before the cook (some pigments don't work this way, though).

Barbs way of saving some water for after the cook is good, too. I do my milk soaps like that. But remember if the water is cold it will turn the soap waxy the instant it touches it. I glop (for lack of a better term) into the mold while still pretty hot and the insulation keeps it melty for a long time. I will come by and touch my molds hours later and they are still warm. I think that helps with the smoother appearance, too.

Some people add sugar to their recipe to keep the soap hotter, but I just work fast and don't let it cool down to begin with after the cook. Hope that makes sense!

Wow, I have lots to learn!!!

Thank you everybody for replying!

[8-GRAN-ONES]

OK, well I have been watching a bunch of You tube soaper videos. I came across one that did her soap like CP, swirls and all. Poured in a wood log mold, and put it in a 170 degree oven ( I think she said for an Hour) then let it set over night in the oven (cooling down). What process is this called? I thought that was interesting...

this will also force gell....i do this with all my soaps..as i want them to gell..

[Reg]

this will also force gell....i do this with all my soaps..as i want them to gell..

Pardon my dumbness, but what does it mean to "force gell"?

[8-GRAN-ONES]

the heat will insure that your soap will gell..

or you can wrap in towels and blankets to gell too..

have you even seen a soap ..that has kind of a circle right in the middle, that is a different shade?...that is from a soap that did not completely gell.

if you don't want to gell..you keep you soaps uncovered..and place on racks so that the air will circulate..and you can even turn on a fan..

and if you make GM soaps..some even put it in the freezer to keep from gell..

[Reg]

the heat will insure that your soap will gell..

or you can wrap in towels and blankets to gell too..

have you even seen a soap ..that has kind of a circle right in the middle, that is a different shade?...that is from a soap that did not completely gell.

if you don't want to gell..you keep you soaps uncovered..and place on racks so that the air will circulate..and you can even turn on a fan..

and if you make GM soaps..some even put it in the freezer to keep from gell..

I onlymade 2 batches of soap, and neither had that circle. I guess I am not sure what gell means. Is it a bit different texture when it gells, then when it doesn't gell?

[Sister Kya]

So how long does CP soap stay caustic, just first few days, or all those 4-6 weeks while it's curing? (I have kids too)

Typically it's only really caustic for the first 48 hours or so. Once the "zap" is gone it's not considered caustic anymore. However, it will still be a bit harsh if used right away as it does continue to saponify for a while. Many castille makers swear that their soap needs to sit for a year or so before it's completely saponified and becomes as mild as they want it...

[Reg]

Typically it's only really caustic for the first 48 hours or so. Once the "zap" is gone it's not considered caustic anymore. However, it will still be a bit harsh if used right away as it does continue to saponify for a while. Many castille makers swear that their soap needs to sit for a year or so before it's completely saponified and becomes as mild as they want it...

I made a batch of CP soap with olive oil only, maybe I'll save one bar for a year to see if it gets better.

[katinmo]

So how long does CP soap stay caustic, just first few days, or all those 4-6 weeks while it's curing? (I have kids too)

Sopanification should be complete within a day or two. The curing is just needed to allow any water evaoprate off for your bars to harden up. I usually try a small piece of soap straight out of the mold and its fine but it gets better with time (better lather, etc.).

Kat

[Reg]

Sopanification should be complete within a day or two. The curing is just needed to allow any water evaoprate off for your bars to harden up. I usually try a small piece of soap straight out of the mold and its fine but it gets better with time (better lather, etc.).

Kat

I was reading "soapmakers companion" book this morning, and it said,"Cold-process soaps lose their caustic properties only after weeks of curing..." I thought caustic meant corrosive enough to eat throug things. Maybe she means the lye still keeps reacting with oil over time, even though not much of it is left after a couple of days?