C-3 Question....

[LeahRB]

I am trying my hand at soy and I have started with C-3. It is a completely different monster from paraffin and last night I made my first candle with it. I heated it up to 185 put in my FO and I let it cool to 125. I put it in a warm place to cool and this morning I have huge canyons around the wick. The broiler will not fix these and I just know if I light it up the wax will sink into the holes and drown out my wick. Any advice on what I can do different before I try it again. All help is appreciated. Thanks!!!

[Mineralesque]

I usually poor between 155 and 160. I never cool it down so much. Ez Soy you have to cool to slushy stage but c3 you don't. I don't know if that is the probably but that is what I noticed. HTH.

Linette

[LeahRB]

Thanks for your help. I will try pouring hotter.

[winssay1]

I agree, my experience is that you have a much nicer result with C-3 when you pour at a higher temperature.

Also, I figure out how many containers I'm going to fill with one pitcher and I pour each one about a third of the way full, then I circle back and pour until each is two thirds full, then I top them all off with the final third. I've found that this allows time for air bubbles to escape so not as many get trapped. Maybe it's just my imagination but I really think this makes a difference. Give it a try and let me know if you think it helps.

[nursenancy]

I pour hot too.

Ive had some frosting issues, but I attribute that to the dye I'm using (chips-trying to use them up), because I pour at the same temp everytime. The dye is the only variable, that I can see. I have some orange that frosted like a b***h.

[deb426]

Me too. I heat to 185 and pour at 165 or so. I usually don't have to do a second pour unless the container is very wide. I hate pouring slushy. I usually get distracted while waiting and miss the slushy stage. Then I have to start all over. Its hot pour for me or forget it.

[Stella1952]

Same as others - I add FO @ 185°-190°F and pour @ 165°F. Seems to agree well with C3.

Somewhere along the way, when the candles are slushy, I thump the cases around to release any air bubbles that have formed. In the warm weather we're having now, I throw a paper towel over the cardboard flats of candles as they are cooling. In another month or so, the room temp will be so warm, I won't even have to do that.

[LeahRB]

Thanks guys for all your help and advice. I will be making another candle tonight and I hope it goes better.

I have to say that this candle smells great cold and the hot throw was good too. I was worried about this because it was soy. But, the cold throw was just as good as my 4627 and the hot throw was comparable without all that black soot!!!

Yeah.

P.S. Average cure time for c-3?? I burned this one after 12 hours so I can't imagine how much better it would be if I waited.

[LeahRB]

I made a candle earlier and I let it completely cool and it is almost completely smooth and level. I heated to 185 and poured at 170. I am blown away by the cold throw.

Thanks guys! I love this board.

[CareBear]

But, the cold throw was just as good as my 4627 and the hot throw was comparable without all that black soot!!!

if you were getting sooting from the 4627, maybe you should re-think your wicking.

[LeahRB]

I really liked the HTP wicks in the 4627. It is a great wax and I will continue to use it. I could never really see the wick smoking, but I would see black soot on the side of the jars.

[WillowBoo]

FIrst of all...let me write here...I believe I am only meant to test!

I included the dye (cranberry) chip into the mix (for the tempering) phase and when I remelted the wax, I only had to add the FO. I poured wax into the jars (slipped on their little booties) to help with the slower cool down and I had no wet spots and no frosting. I am on the second burn and nothing has popped up.

Maybe including any dye in the tempering phase, helps.

[LeahRB]

Glad to hear you are doing so well and thanks for the advice.

[WillowBoo]

About C-3...it never seems to be smooth on the top after burning. And, it wants to tunnel. Is this common and will the wax catch up as the candle burns down?

[deb426]

I don't have a problem with tunneling but I agree that sometimes C3 isn't the prettiest wax after a burn or two. I don't worry too much about that because I don't think my customers care. They just want a candle that smells good and throws well.

[Stella1952]

I get smooooth tops with C3 before and after burning. I use USA and CDN wicks. There is no reason to have lumpy tops with C3.

[deb426]

My tops are smooth on all my containers except for the one that is five inches across. When that one is burned, I get some bumpiness after about the fifth burn, despite double-wicking. I think its because I purposely underwick it a little. Its a 64 ounce jar. I don't sell that one, its just to fool around with.

[Trappeur]

I agree, my experience is that you have a much nicer result with C-3 when you pour at a higher temperature.

Also, I figure out how many containers I'm going to fill with one pitcher and I pour each one about a third of the way full, then I circle back and pour until each is two thirds full, then I top them all off with the final third. I've found that this allows time for air bubbles to escape so not as many get trapped. Maybe it's just my imagination but I really think this makes a difference. Give it a try and let me know if you think it helps.

Wow Winssays, now this is different how you pour....I'll have to try that myself and see if it helps me too.

Trappeur

[Trappeur]

My tops are smooth on all my containers except for the one that is five inches across. When that one is burned, I get some bumpiness after about the fifth burn, despite double-wicking. I think its because I purposely underwick it a little. Its a 64 ounce jar. I don't sell that one, its just to fool around with.

Hi Deb,

I've been wanting to do a 64oz countainer for some time now....Would you mind tell what size wicks you use and how many? In taking a real wild guess, I'm going to say 3 104 or 3 105 wicks?

Thanks.

Trappeur

[deb426]

Trappeur, the 64 ounce are a bear to wick, let me tell you. I only started because I had a friend who begged. So far, I've only been successful with one scent (Snickerdoodle from C&S at 1.5 pp). I find that this oil is my lightest oil for wicking. After numerous attempts at triple wicking, I finally settled on double wicking with ECO 12. The jar burns nice for the first third, nice for the last third and "bubbly" for the middle. I think that is the level where oxygen runs short. If I wick up, the jar gets too hot at start and at the end so I kind of had to settle with the middle third burning a little weird. I think the problem is that since soy burns down and then out, it just burns weird in a large jar like that. I probably should do a blend or just paraffin and forget soy for that jar but I am determined to succeed or drive myself crazy, one or the other. I am now working on cinnamon. The cinnamon is very frustrating because the wicks are clogging about half way down. I think I need to back off on the oil (which I hate to do) or maybe try one without dye. I use a lot of dye in my cinnamon containers because my customers like that deep burgundy color. The other problem is sooting because the top of the jar is smaller than the body. I wouldn't mind perfecting about three scents for these jars for my customers who power burn candles. I think these jars are perfect for the all day burn.

If anybody has any tips, I'd sure take'em and try'em. Don't mean to hijack the thread, though. Maybe I should start a new one?

Deb

[WillowBoo]

Regarding the bumpy appearance after burning the C-3. It's better after the 3th burn, still there somewhat. I think I underwicked the containers.

Thanks!

[Stella1952]

Also, I figure out how many containers I'm going to fill with one pitcher and I pour each one about a third of the way full, then I circle back and pour until each is two thirds full, then I top them all off with the final third. I've found that this allows time for air bubbles to escape so not as many get trapped.

This would work out okay so long as you are not pouring many candles, but I doubt it has much bearing on releasing air bubbles. It could be argued that you are making more opportunities for air to enter the wax in the container during the extra pouring! If you are pouring a number at once, this could cause noticeable lines... It's quite easy to thump the surface where the candles are poured or gently thump each container after pouring to dissipate air bubbles and encourage them to the surface to break.