CareBear Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Kimmeroo, WOW!!!! My eyeballs!!! Retinal burns!!! seriously LOL!!!(actually I gave up trying to read that color - not enough contrast - so I highlighted it with my cursor and THEN could read it in "reverse color" so to speak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekB Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Stella,I've seen in other posts that you mention USA. What does that stand for? Is it the UV Light Stabilizer & Absorber at JBN? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekB Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Nevermind everyone...after more reading this evening I found the answer to my question concerning USA. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 What a shame you haven't had a good experience with veggie wax candles, Top! I have come to enjoy them very much, and have found them to be reasonably stable in a wide range of temps, despite soy wax's sensitivity to thermal changes.It's not that I didn't have a good experience. All-veg wax is interesting to work with. As a candlemaker I still enjoy working with it from time to time and learning as much as possible. Based on tricks I've discovered about tempering and pouring it, I suspect I can get the best possible results.What I did say is that the material isn't stable, which is true. For some that's okay, but it didn't meet the objectives I had in mind as far as developing something to sell was concerned. Since I don't buy into the virtue of being limited to vegetable oil, it's not a problem. There are plenty of stable blends I can use, plus they generally throw scent better with less FO.Of course if you think that your experience has been exceptional in some way, I'd love to know the details of the results you achieve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Of course if you think that your experience has been exceptional in some way, I'd love to know the details of the results you achieve.I don't know that I'd call it "exceptional" - more stable and consistent was what I was trying to convey. At least nothing has looked like "brains" in a long time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimmeroo Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 What a shame you haven't had a good experience with veggie wax candles, Top! I have come to enjoy them very much, and have found them to be reasonably stable in a wide range of temps, despite soy wax's sensitivity to thermal changes. Tempering the soy-based product that I use (NatureWax C3) helps a lot in making a candle that is more resistant to polymorphic changes in the wax and to have a greater shelf life. I get great hot throw with 1 oz. pp (depending, of course, on the particular FO), CDN wicks (both for soy and palm) and using USA as an additive in C3. Since veggie waxes are the only kind I have made, I cannot compare with paraffin except the store-bought ones I used during Katrina that were crappy candles by any yardstick!!! Haven't used any paraffin candles since then and am very excited about both the cold/hot throw and good burning characteristics of veggie wax candles, as are a LOT of customers out there...Kimmeroo, WOW!!!! My eyeballs!!! Retinal burns!!! Sorry Stella! I will try to keep it toned down a bit..I am excited about SPRING! Kimmeroo:smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 I am excited about SPRING! Kimmeroo:smiley2: Can't fault a gal with SPRING FEVER, now can we? Especially since I am sitting here eating local strawberries (our hometown specialty crop) with my doors and windows open so the pollen can get in faster... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebeccajo99 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 That is so not fair... it is only 40 degrees here today!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimmeroo Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Can't fault a gal with SPRING FEVER, now can we? Especially since I am sitting here eating local strawberries (our hometown specialty crop) with my doors and windows open so the pollen can get in faster...That's not fair! I still have a 3 ft. snow bank in front of my house! UGH! I hate winter! Unless I was in California(like ummm...) or in Florida! It is supposed to be nice and sunny all next week (45-50's)YAY! so hopefully the snow will go away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimmeroo Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 That is so not fair... it is only 40 degrees here today!!!Where are you from Rebecca? Sounds like you live in the same region as me...lol!:smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebeccajo99 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Where are you from Rebecca? Sounds like you live in the same region as me...lol!:smiley2: I live in Michigan. I must be a little further south than where you are in NY. We should hit low 50's tomorrow, but snow again this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekB Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 Okay, I'm back...I've been doing a lot more research and testing. Here's were I'm at...I've changed everything :rolleyes2.464 Wax8 oz tin (3" diameter)6.25% fo (CandleScience Gardenia)1/2 teaspoon UV InhibitorCDN 10, 12, 14, 16As it stands, the CDN 16 is burning the best. I'm still performing my burn test, but after 4 rounds so far, the CDN 16 is the only one getting close to a full melt pool.So, with that said, I have three questions...1. Should I try a bigger CDN wick size for the 8 oz tin?2. I plan on testing 8 oz glass madison jars (3" diameter), what size wick should I start with? I know usually you have to wick up for glass.3. I also want to test LX and ECO wicks. Any suggestions on wick size?As always, thank you for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Derek, how far down did you burn the tester with the CDN 16? If you did 3 hour tests x 4 rounds, you're 12 hours into the test and haven't achieved FMP yet, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekB Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 Stella,For CDN 10, 12, and 14, I have burned them 4x for 3 hours each time. The CDN 16 has been burned 3x at 3 hours each time.I just took some pictures of the tins after they have cooled a little bit. Hopefully this helps.http://www.flickr.com/photos/36593977@N02/?saved=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Aha!! That's a lot better. When you allow the MP to become so off center, it doesn't burn right and throws your testing off. To prevent the off-center melt pool from CDs & CDNs, you can do one of 3 things:1. twist the wicks after you secure them to the bottom of the container;2. turn the container a quarter turn every 20 minutes or so;3. poke the wick (just under the flame) in the direction you want it to go.The side with the curl burns hotter than the side away from it (unless air currents encourage it in a different direction). From what I see, I would bet on the 12 & 14, but it's just too hard to tell with the MP being so off kilter. When you relight, make sure the MP stays centered and then take some shots at the end of the next test period. I think we'll be able to tell more then. PS Does 464 always look that rough on top when it cools or does it smooth out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekB Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 Stella,Thanks for the advice. I will try to correct the melt pool tonight when I test. Should I assume that the twisting of the wick before I pour the wax will help keep the wick straight? Do I need to do this for other wick types as well?As for the roughness...I've just started using 464 so I'm not sure if the roughness is typical. I will say that the wax was rough/textured after it cured (nowhere near as bad as after I've burned the candle ). When I made the candles I poured at 135 degrees. I'm working in the basement where is it unfortunately 60 degrees. I did place the containers on a cooling rack and covered them with a cardboard box so they would cool evenly and slowly. After I poured the four containers, I still had excess in the pour pitcher. Since I had no other containers ready to go I let the wax cool further and then poured into a plastic cup. Unfortunately, I did not note the temperature of the wax at time, but it cooled a lot smoother. I plan on my future pours to pour cooler (probably around 115-120 degrees.Any other thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekB Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 Sorry for the duplicate post...for some reason the site is not showing my first response.Stella,Thanks for the advice. I will try to correct the melt pool tonight when I test. Should I assume that the twisting of the wick before I pour the wax will help keep the wick straight? Do I need to do this for other wick types as well?As for the roughness...I've just started using 464 so I'm not sure if the roughness is typical. I will say that the wax was rough/textured after it cured (nowhere near as bad as after I've burned the candle ). When I made the candles I poured at 135 degrees. I'm working in the basement where is it unfortunately 60 degrees. I did place the containers on a cooling rack and covered them with a cardboard box so they would cool evenly and slowly. After I poured the four containers, I still had excess in the pour pitcher. Since I had no other containers ready to go I let the wax cool further and then poured into a plastic cup. Unfortunately, I did not note the temperature of the wax at time, but it cooled a lot smoother. I plan on my future pours to pour cooler (probably around 115-120 degrees.When the candle finally cools after burning, the wax is a little rough.Any other thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Should I assume that the twisting of the wick before I pour the wax will help keep the wick straight? Do I need to do this for other wick types as well?Twisting the wick causes it to burn in a circle, so the lopsidedness straightens itself out. Since CDs & CDNs have a self-trimming stance, this is typical of them. I would assume that if another kind of wick has the same stance, then it might also have a lopsided burn.When I am testing, I usually just turn the candle or poke the wick, but for candles I sell, I twist the wicks because I assume that customers will not bother to recenter the wick. :rolleyes2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekB Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 Thanks!!!! Any suggestions on a size wick to start with for 8oz glass container (3" diameter)? Suppose the CDN 12 or 14 work out for the 8 oz tin, do I start with that size or do I go up? I'm just not sure if I go up one or two sizes to start if I need to wick up. I plan on testing a few sizes for the glass, but don't want to start to high or too low.Thanks again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimmeroo Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Here ya go Derek.I hope this chart helps..it has been a lifesaver for me! Stella posted this quite a while ago and I have cherished it! It has all the wick series..the chart is pretty self-explanitory! Good luck wicking the 8oz.(I personally would make up a tester of each cd 12,14,16 and go from there).HTH!:smiley2: Kimmeroo:smiley2: http://www.wicknclip.com/recommendations.html#p700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlelady Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Thanks for posting that info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekB Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 Thanks for the info!! I'll let you all of you know later tonight how the testing goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Any suggestions on a size wick to start with for 8oz glass container (3" diameter)?I would try a CDN12, 14 & 16. Have fun and let us know how things come out for ya tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekB Posted April 3, 2009 Author Share Posted April 3, 2009 Alright...so I've completed my testing this evening. Attached are the photos of the candles when they were burning and when the burn test was completed. During the test I would turn the candles and straightened the wicks.http://www.flickr.com/photos/36593977@N02/Overall, I think the CDN10 is not working. It looked like it was going to drown the whole time.The CDN 12 and 14 were burning okay. I'm thinking there is so much hang up from the previous burns, that the candle will never catch up. The CDN 16 achieved almost a full melt pool. The container was slightly warm, but not too warm.I'm thinking when I pour my next round of candles to test other wicks, I'll include CDN 12 and 14 in the mix. Any thoughts, observations, suggestions?Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Keep burning them all the way down, Derek. From the way your photos look tonight after getting the MP straightened out, I'm thinking the 14 or 16 may be your winner. I agree - it doesn't look like the 10's makin' it... I'm not wild about the 12 either... Like you observed - the results might be slightly skewed from the off-centered MP, but I think that'll straighten out pretty well on the next couple of burns.I can't tell real well from the top view how far down into the container the candles have burned... Just for grins, what's the depth if the tin again and how far down are they? Have you been weighing them to check the RoC (rate of consumption) per hour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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