DerekB

Thank you to everyone for your replies and suggestions. As always, the information is very helpful. I'll definitely have to try these techniques as I continue to figure out what works best for me. Thanks, again!

Georgia, I like the idea of the binder clip...does it scratch the glass at all?

Stella, Just to clarify...do you bring the wax in the Presto to the desired temperature to add FO/additives? I haven't used my Presto yet...is it difficult to regulate the temperature so that the wax doesn't get too hot? Does the temp stay relatively consistent?

Have you had any problems with the wax setting up after moving the filled container off of the scale? I'm trying to work out the logistics in my head. Eventually, when I start to pour large quantities I plan to use a presto pot to melt the wax. From the presto pot, I was planning on pouring into a pour pitcher, heat to appropriate temp, add additives and FO, and let sit until until pour temp and then pour into containers. Is there a better way?

As I continue on my quest to make the "perfect" candle, I have a question about pouring...how do you consistently pour the same amount of wax in your containers? Thanks! Derek

Thanks Stella and Judy for the advice! I just did my first burn of these candles with the different FO (Peaks Gardenia) and learned a big lesson. For the past few weeks, I've been using CS Gardenia and have not been impressed with the HT. I've kept testing with it because I had quite a bit and also was stubborn and I didn't want to give up on the FO. Any ways, by the time I decided to try a different FO I was at 9%. So, when I poured the Peaks Gardenia I went right to 9%. The HT from the Peak's oil was great; however, after it was done burning, I noticed a significant number of dark "blotches" in the wax. I believe this is excessive FO that did not incorporate into the wax. Also, the wax cooled really rough and, in fact, after I had poured the wax it didn't setup as nice as usual. I think all of this has to do with the excessive FO. Am I right? So the lesson...whenever I try a new FO I'm going to start with the rule of 1oz per pound and then work from there. I'll be doing more pouring tonight. Judy - I actually finally bought CO yesterday and can't wait to try it. I plan on using it once I get the CB135 and Peaks Gardenia wicked. I'll keep you posted...

Hey, Stella! A couple of weeks ago I ordered white dye from JBN just to have on hand. Would white dye be the color to add to the wax if I decided to do for a white color? Or, would I need to use a different color to offset the yellowish color? I saw in some posts people mentioned using a color opposite in the color wheel to correct color issues. I really don't want to use dye, but on the other hand I do like the look of a white candle. Oh, what to do... :rolleyes2

I just poured Ecosoya CB 135. I added UV Inhibitor and 9% Peaks Gardenia. The Gardenia was yellow and I believe this is what gave the wax a yellowish tint. I plan on having all my candles dye free. My question is have others experienced this and, if so, for those who make dye free candles exclusively do you use white dye to keep the wax "natural" looking?

I bet that's my problem! I guess tonight I'm going to have to pour a couple more candles with the CS wax. I'm still going to continue testing this current batch - the HTP 62 is performing like the HTP 73 did in the last test. I guess after this 10lb bag is done, it's time to start ordering cases...I've still have a lot of testing to do and need to know what I'm working with! :smiley2: As always, thanks for the feedback!

I was just thinking...I'm using Ecosoya CB 135. During my last test, I used wax from a 10lb bag from CandleScience. For this test, I'm used wax from a 10lb bag from Peaks. Would there be a difference between the two bags?

They cured in the same location and the temperature has been the same. The house has been slightly warmer here in Illinois, so the house has been warmer (75 degrees vs 68 degrees). How do you compensate or adjust performance when producing your candles and selling them year round to individuals potentially in completely different climates? Based on my previous test and Lone Star Supply's recommendations (http://www.lonestarcandlesupply.com/candle-making/candle-wicks/), for my size tin (2 13/16" diameter) it appears that HTP 73 is the right choice. I really thought I had this locked...

Thanks, Stella! Strange how these candles are burning compared to the first test. It will be interesting to see how they perform as I continue testing them. Again, thanks!

Okay...so I recently tested 6oz tins with Ecosoya CB135 and CS Gardenia with HTP 62 and HTP 73 wicks. During the first test, the 62 tunneled and the 73 burned really nice. Figuring I had this nailed down, I decided to test these two wicks again. During this second test, the HTP 62 seems to be burning nice and the HTP 73 seems to be burning faster (already hit FMP during first burn). During the first test, I had let the candles cure for 4 days. For this second test, they have cured for 48 hours. Would this impact how the wicks perform? All other variables are the same except for cure time. I've heard of cure time in terms of how a FO throws, but does this also impact overall wick performance?

topofmurrayhill, Thanks! You helped me put things into perspective...I'll let you know how the HTP-73 works out. Thanks, again.

Thank you topofmurrayhill! I will try that...so that I understand correctly, by wicking down to a HTP-73 and giving it a little bit longer to burn it may perform as well (if not better) than the HTP-83? Should I expect the same for a glass container that is 3 1/4" in diameter (soot, flickering, etc)? Sorry for all the questions...just trying to get my head around all of this.