DerekB

Thank you to everyone for your replies and suggestions. As always, the information is very helpful. I'll definitely have to try these techniques as I continue to figure out what works best for me. Thanks, again!

Georgia, I like the idea of the binder clip...does it scratch the glass at all?

Stella, Just to clarify...do you bring the wax in the Presto to the desired temperature to add FO/additives? I haven't used my Presto yet...is it difficult to regulate the temperature so that the wax doesn't get too hot? Does the temp stay relatively consistent?

Have you had any problems with the wax setting up after moving the filled container off of the scale? I'm trying to work out the logistics in my head. Eventually, when I start to pour large quantities I plan to use a presto pot to melt the wax. From the presto pot, I was planning on pouring into a pour pitcher, heat to appropriate temp, add additives and FO, and let sit until until pour temp and then pour into containers. Is there a better way?

As I continue on my quest to make the "perfect" candle, I have a question about pouring...how do you consistently pour the same amount of wax in your containers? Thanks! Derek

Thanks Stella and Judy for the advice! I just did my first burn of these candles with the different FO (Peaks Gardenia) and learned a big lesson. For the past few weeks, I've been using CS Gardenia and have not been impressed with the HT. I've kept testing with it because I had quite a bit and also was stubborn and I didn't want to give up on the FO. Any ways, by the time I decided to try a different FO I was at 9%. So, when I poured the Peaks Gardenia I went right to 9%. The HT from the Peak's oil was great; however, after it was done burning, I noticed a significant number of dark "blotches" in the wax. I believe this is excessive FO that did not incorporate into the wax. Also, the wax cooled really rough and, in fact, after I had poured the wax it didn't setup as nice as usual. I think all of this has to do with the excessive FO. Am I right? So the lesson...whenever I try a new FO I'm going to start with the rule of 1oz per pound and then work from there. I'll be doing more pouring tonight. Judy - I actually finally bought CO yesterday and can't wait to try it. I plan on using it once I get the CB135 and Peaks Gardenia wicked. I'll keep you posted...

Hey, Stella! A couple of weeks ago I ordered white dye from JBN just to have on hand. Would white dye be the color to add to the wax if I decided to do for a white color? Or, would I need to use a different color to offset the yellowish color? I saw in some posts people mentioned using a color opposite in the color wheel to correct color issues. I really don't want to use dye, but on the other hand I do like the look of a white candle. Oh, what to do... :rolleyes2

I just poured Ecosoya CB 135. I added UV Inhibitor and 9% Peaks Gardenia. The Gardenia was yellow and I believe this is what gave the wax a yellowish tint. I plan on having all my candles dye free. My question is have others experienced this and, if so, for those who make dye free candles exclusively do you use white dye to keep the wax "natural" looking?

I bet that's my problem! I guess tonight I'm going to have to pour a couple more candles with the CS wax. I'm still going to continue testing this current batch - the HTP 62 is performing like the HTP 73 did in the last test. I guess after this 10lb bag is done, it's time to start ordering cases...I've still have a lot of testing to do and need to know what I'm working with! :smiley2: As always, thanks for the feedback!

I was just thinking...I'm using Ecosoya CB 135. During my last test, I used wax from a 10lb bag from CandleScience. For this test, I'm used wax from a 10lb bag from Peaks. Would there be a difference between the two bags?

They cured in the same location and the temperature has been the same. The house has been slightly warmer here in Illinois, so the house has been warmer (75 degrees vs 68 degrees). How do you compensate or adjust performance when producing your candles and selling them year round to individuals potentially in completely different climates? Based on my previous test and Lone Star Supply's recommendations (http://www.lonestarcandlesupply.com/candle-making/candle-wicks/), for my size tin (2 13/16" diameter) it appears that HTP 73 is the right choice. I really thought I had this locked...

Thanks, Stella! Strange how these candles are burning compared to the first test. It will be interesting to see how they perform as I continue testing them. Again, thanks!

Okay...so I recently tested 6oz tins with Ecosoya CB135 and CS Gardenia with HTP 62 and HTP 73 wicks. During the first test, the 62 tunneled and the 73 burned really nice. Figuring I had this nailed down, I decided to test these two wicks again. During this second test, the HTP 62 seems to be burning nice and the HTP 73 seems to be burning faster (already hit FMP during first burn). During the first test, I had let the candles cure for 4 days. For this second test, they have cured for 48 hours. Would this impact how the wicks perform? All other variables are the same except for cure time. I've heard of cure time in terms of how a FO throws, but does this also impact overall wick performance?

topofmurrayhill, Thanks! You helped me put things into perspective...I'll let you know how the HTP-73 works out. Thanks, again.

Thank you topofmurrayhill! I will try that...so that I understand correctly, by wicking down to a HTP-73 and giving it a little bit longer to burn it may perform as well (if not better) than the HTP-83? Should I expect the same for a glass container that is 3 1/4" in diameter (soot, flickering, etc)? Sorry for all the questions...just trying to get my head around all of this.

Well, I'm still testing the HTP 83. There is less then 1/2" of wax left in the 8oz tin. I've been noticing quite a bit of soot along the rim of the container. Is this normal? Is this something to be concerned with?

That's what I thought...the HTP-104 is nice, but it's too much of a torch. Your correct...I did not mention HTP-93. I tried that wick as well and it was tunneling terribly. At the end of the 3rd burn, I gave up on it. It had approximately 3/8" handg up all around and the flame was really small. I still have a few more burns to go, but I think the HTP-83 or RRD-47 are going to be the way to go. I'm also going to poor some candles this weekend with Peak's cotton core wicks just to see how those are. Question...when it comes to wicking glass containers, do I want to get the wax to melt just like the tins where it catches up after a few burns or do I want the wax to melt faster? Thanks for the help!

Okay...I'm doing the 7th burn for this series of candles. As it stands, I still have the HTP-83, HTP-104, and the RRD-47. http://www.flickr.com/photos/36593977@N02/?saved=1 I've noticed that the HTP-104 and the RRD-47 have pretty large flames and I've noticed some back smoke. I've also noticed that the HTP-104 has quite a bit of soot along on side of the tin on the rim. The RRD-47 has a small amount of soot along the edge. The HTP-83 has a very tiny amount of wax along the sides, but it is throwing well (a little better than the others). Any thoughts? Suggestions? Is the soot an issue? Can you completely eliminate it? Thanks...I think I'm getting there...

I saw this on Beanpod's website under customer care... "When you first light your candle, allow for the wax to pool all the way to the outer edges of the container." Is this true? With my 3" diameter test candles, I've been burning them for 3 hours periods and I don't get a full melt pool until the 2nd or 3rd burn. Based on what they're telling customers (and if this is true), either my future customers would need to burn for several hours or I need to wick up. Sorry if this is a really stupid question...I guess I just need to know if this is accurate or not.

Both the HTP-104 and RRD-47 are doing really well. At the end of the 3 hours, both had FMP. Additionally, they both are 100% liquid (total of 5/8" wax remains). Should I be concerned with this? I know that a rule is that the melt pool depth is around 1/4" - 1/2".

Deb, My containers are 2" deep and right now I'm one hour into my 6th 3 hour burn cycle. At this time there is 3/4" of wax remaining.

HA! Actually, I trim the wick every time before lighting. I even noticed when I was trying CDN, LX, and ECO wicks that the flame on occasion would get pretty large (around 1 inch). I'll tell you I find it pretty challenging to measure the flame!! It hurts the fingers...just kidding!

Islandgirl, Thanks for the response. I will keep my eyes on the flame height. As I mentioned before, during the first hour, the flame on all the candles was about 1 inch and them got smaller during the burn cycle. Out of curiosity, how would extinguishing the flame and relighting the candle possibly 'fix' this?

Islandgirl, Thank you for the feedback. I've tested a lot of wicks (CDN, LX, ECO, RRD, and HTP). I feel I'm getting close!! :yay:So far, I've been the happiest with the HTP and RRD. In fact, they've both performed so well that it's hard to choose which one. Also, too complicate matters, I was planning to test some cotton core wicks from Peaks. For some reason, I would like the wicks to have an upright posture like the RRD, but I don't want to use zinc. I know in the end, what matters is how well the wick performs overall. I agree the HTP 104 is the best, but it was also the hottest. After three hours, you could still comfortably touch the tin, but it was warmer than the others. It will be interesting to see how much warmer it gets as I continue to burn through the candle. I too think the RRD 47 is a close second; however, the RRD 40 is not too bad either. All of them have about the same HT (the HTP 104 was a little better). How many burns into the candle should I expect the wax handup to start to melt? As I mentioned, this was the 5th 3 hour burn cycle. Was this too soon? Too late? Just right? I also plan to start wicking glass jars. I know you typically have to use a larger wick because the glass does not conduct heat as much as the tins (at least from what I recall reading). How long into the burn cycles for glass containers should I expect the handup to melt? The same as tins or sooner? Sorry I seem all over the place...Thanks for the help!!

Below are the candles after the 3 hour mark during the 5th burn session. http://www.flickr.com/photos/36593977@N02/ The problem I'm running into is that all four are burning nice. The HTP 104 is pretty warm and I'm afraid it will be really hot later on...but I do like its HT. The RRDs are equally nice. The RRD 47 has a nicer HT than the RRD 40, but it's not that significant. Based on the pictures, which candle(s) do you think appear to be burning best? Thanks!