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Second Rustic with bad spot


snow

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Yeah, it looks like it didn't stick well enough. How long did you wait between layers? Maybe the rustic part on the mold cooled off too much before the next pour causing it not to stick?

I've had that happen many times but not recently so I can't think of conditions off the top of my head that might help. Sorry.

BTW: You know that you post another pic when you reply to yourself if it doesn't upload the first time? ;)

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Yeah, it looks like it didn't stick well enough. How long did you wait between layers? Maybe the rustic part on the mold cooled off too much before the next pour causing it not to stick?

I've had that happen many times but not recently so I can't think of conditions off the top of my head that might help. Sorry.

BTW: You know that you post another pic when you reply to yourself if it doesn't upload the first time? ;)

No, I'm not good at posting pics, did you see the good one? Are they both on here?

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Yeah, there's one pic in each thread.

You have a good look to the candle. Barring the loose spot, it's fantastic. With time and practice, you'll get the feel for it. I'm a baaaaad chandler, since I rarely pull my thermometer out. I can't even begin to tell you my pouring temps for these cuz I don't know. I slosh the wax around in the pot til it looks kinda thick. Different thickness for different amounts of rustic...lol.

Ok, I'll tell you what I do when this happens. If it's a tester for me, I leave it alone and burn it...lol. If not, I get zap happy. I put the candle back in the mold, seal the hole and start zapping the mold. Heat it evenly in strokes from top to bottom, with the bottom needing more heat to spread underneath. I melt all the way around until about 1/8" of melted wax. You have to give it some hard and heavy tapping as you go because the melted wax is filling in the outside where it shrank away from the mold too. As long as I keep getting air bubbles, I keep zapping and tapping. Just don't melt too much of the candle or you wont have any pattern left.

You wont have a classic rustic after this, but it'll still be interesting. It'll have a glossy finish with the rustic patterns underneath. Kinda looks like stained glass.

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I said I hadn't had it happen in a while, but I was wrong. It did last week. It didn't register since the candle never came out of the mold so I didn't see what it looked like. The candle had shrunk away so much it rattled in the mold, but wouldn't budge to come out, not even a hair. So I assume it was a BIG chunk that was stuck to the mold...lol. I waited 3 or 4 days and still no budging so I got zap happy on it yesterday. I haven't taken a picture of it but I will today and post it so you can see what it turns out like when you zap them.

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Thats good to know! However, this one will be just for me because I haven't figured out a good wick yet. Wanna get the rustic look down first. But maybe I'll play with the heat gun on it later. I really liked how the good part looks, to bad it had to have a bad spot, but sxxx happens and after all its only my second attempt. Like I said its the last layer or two that is giving me problems, my first one kinda did the same thing. I cooled the mold with a cool rag towards the end, someone said to do that. Maybe thats causing it, I'm probably not doing it right. Obviously, lol. Thanks for your advice!

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However, this one will be just for me because I haven't figured out a good wick yet. Wanna get the rustic look down first.

These are the perfect ones for testing the wicks! It really stinks to have one come out perfect and beautiful only to have to burn it yourself to find the right wick :)

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Looks like what you poured in was too cool. More will come off. Usually does. You can peel it off and go with what you have underneath or next time you can pour a little hotter.

I agree with this. It's happened to me before but I don't sweat it. It gives the look more depth and texture, IMO. :grin2:

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That's why I crackle them (smile).....if it were just a tester for me I wouldn't care, but I have saved many candles and made them pretty enough to sell. That is important if you are doing it for a living (smile again) Donita

Would crackling work with the top layer breaking off? I know it hides blemishes well, but never thought about it stabilizing loose wax. Or break off all the loose stuff first? But then... would it hide the shallow sections, like maybe the heat kinda leveling the surface? Yeah, I know... try it and find out :laugh2:

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Well, since this candle was just a tester, I took off the loose part and in one spot under there the candle itself had a dent in it. Like the core of the candle was just dented in and so the frosted part could not stick to it. I don't have a clue why that was, does anyone? It surprised me to see it. I'm burning it now and it smells awesome! But GL fireplace is one of my favorite scents and a good seller. Thanks so much for all your help everyone. I'm gonna keep on practicing until I get it right!

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I poke about three large holes around the center. The trick is keeping the holes open while it cools.

You wait until it has formed a skin on top and becomes a little solid? Then poke the holes, is that right? Then you do a re pour after it is set up? So you pour, tilt and wait a few...hold the mold upright and pour another layer and then tilt again and wait, am I doing this right?

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Did you post that backwards or is that the order you do the steps in??

Do your pouring, tilting, layering, whatever design you're doing. When the mold is full and candle is basically done, yes, let the skin form and make the holes. If the skin is thin poking the next often fills in the previous ones. Wait til it cools a bit more and poke again. The holes need to stay open. When they are holding open, make sure they are poked at least 3/4 of the candle depth. I go back and poke the skewers in every couple hours myself to make sure they stay open and no pockets form.

The wax is going to shrink as it cools, period. If the wax is hard all around, top and bottom, it'll make air pockets or pull away from the mold where the wax is the most pliable (dents).If the relief holes are kept open, the warm softer wax in the middle will sink/shrink the most because it's the most pliable.

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Did you post that backwards or is that the order you do the steps in??

Do your pouring, tilting, layering, whatever design you're doing. When the mold is full and candle is basically done, yes, let the skin form and make the holes. If the skin is thin poking the next often fills in the previous ones. Wait til it cools a bit more and poke again. The holes need to stay open. When they are holding open, make sure they are poked at least 3/4 of the candle depth. I go back and poke the skewers in every couple hours myself to make sure they stay open and no pockets form.

The wax is going to shrink as it cools, period. If the wax is hard all around, top and bottom, it'll make air pockets or pull away from the mold where the wax is the most pliable (dents).If the relief holes are kept open, the warm softer wax in the middle will sink/shrink the most because it's the most pliable.

I might not have said that right, lol. Cuz I was talking about the holes first. sorry...But I do the pouring, swishing, tilting and then sset it on a tilt to cool a little, then pour again and blah blah blah....When I get to the last layer to be poured, I stand the mold up and fill to the top. Then after a while poke the holes, but I didn't check on them like you do. I will do that. When all of that is done, then at the very end you do a re pour to fill back up to the top, right? I gotta go to work now..hate it...but I'll check this when I get home tonight. Thanks so much for all your help.

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I had this happening, the peeling off and blistering, a lot with my rustics and think that it is due to pouring too cool. Also I find that the thicker the tilt and swirl layers are, the more likely it is to happen. Lovely colours, though

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