pureblisscandles Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Ok since I am having so many problems with ugly/rough tops with the GW 444 wax many of you guys suggested heat gun for the tops. Ok so what am I doing wrong, I heat gunned them and now they look worse all white and frosty and still not smooth. Also when I heat gun the sides of jars for glass adhesion they mottlle or snowflake. SO not sure whats worse the ugly tops or the other?? Maybe I am doing something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shine Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 I'm not sure why they are white and frosty. I'll heat gun the tops of mine until there is about a 1/16th to an 1/8th of melted wax all across the top. Then I keep zapping the little bubbles that come up untill they're gone. I've never had luck with heat gunning the sides of jars. If I get wet spots, I just leave them alone.HTH, Shine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 I have found that heat gunning the tops of my soy candles will produce frost on top, but there is not much I can do about it. I have to lightly heat gun the tops after I repour because of tiny little air bubbles that will surface....pain in the neck! I have not tested a lot of different soys, so I am not sure if they all are inclined to frost after heat gunning. It is one quirk about soy that I do not like, but I still love soy enough to put up with it. When I colored my soy I really hated it, but since I have gone colorless, it is MUCH less noticeable. I love the creamy color of soy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimmeroo Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 I have the same problems as you all! i am at the point where I think I may just frost all my tops on purpose! Whip some soy with whatever fo the candle is and call it my new look! I am getting pretty annoyed with inconsistant batches of wax! Just when you think you have got the problem solved..next box of soy is totally different and your at square one again! UGH! It makes you want to use a para-soy! Kimmeroo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAngels Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Try C-3 I have had very few problems. The heat gun action works great, just don't put it so close to the top, then you get bubbles. Hold it from a distance. Works great for me.ThanksKathy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LightofDawn Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 I will second using C3. Very rarely do I get frosting from the use of my heat gun. The only time I have a problem is if I get the heat gun to close to the wax causing the wax to get to hot, then I get a little frosting and those darn tiny bubbles.HTHDawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimmeroo Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 That's why I quit using C3 I got terrible frosting! The tops were smooth but after a few burns the frost looked like white mold allovr the candle..even the sides!So then I went to 415..it was great for the first 5olbs. then KABOOM! The tops did evrything but look good! So after 11 dozen of those for a wholesale account..I decided to do some testing and that's what I've been doing.I will have to see what road to take whether to stick eith the soy and pull my hair out on every new batch or do a para-soy! I love the looks(like cba)and scent throw is awesome...the only drawback,the para-soy I like needs to cure for at least a week to smell anything,hot or cold.But once it's cured it is strong! It's the Production wax from C&S. Kimmeroo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fidjitsoy Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 When I colored my soy I really hated it, but since I have gone colorless, it is MUCH less noticeable. I love the creamy color of soy. I love the creamy color too. I have been pouring 8 oz mason with EL Millennium, no dye and the tops seem to stay nice if I pour at 115, but any lower and im heat gunning the tops. Still need to see how the scent throw works out. Seems like most people that I have asked say they prefer a colored candle though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fidjitsoy Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 That's why I quit using C3 I got terrible frosting! The tops were smooth but after a few burns the frost looked like white mold allovr the candle..even the sides!So then I went to 415..it was great for the first 5olbs. then KABOOM! The tops did evrything but look good! KimmerooI have not tested this, but have you used beeswax in your soy Kimmeroo? I see some other posts with people saying it makes it smoother w/ less frosting. Just wondering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimmeroo Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Your not supposed to have to in C3 it has evrything in it. I have decided for the time being to stay with 444..if that starts acting up I will switch to a para-blend. Kimmeroo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SherriLynn Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Seldom do I ever need to fix a top on my soy candles, however I use my blow dryer in a pinch if i get an air bubble. I found years back the heat guns were just too hot, for my EL soy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fidjitsoy Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 Do you use the container or Millennium SherriLynn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 Your not supposed to have to in C3 it has evrything in it.Au contraire, Kimmeroo. I have been using C3 for several years and using additives to correct certain problems helps a lot. Much has been posted on the subject (always available by using the "search" function in the blue stripe above) and people have generously contributed their experiences and formulas in the "Would Like Your Help" sticky at the top of the veggie wax forum. Understanding the causes of certain problems with soy wax is the first step to their solution. I try not to use heat guns except for the most minor corrections. The extreme heat can cause more troubles than one started with... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SherriLynn Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 No,, I don't use millenium... Regular EL container blend blended with beewax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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