At wits end!

[snow]

My candles are turning out ugly! The wax is not sticking to the jars no matter what I do, its awful. I mean, not a wet spot or two (I could live with that) but mostly not adhereing to jars at all but maybe just in one little spot. I have tried everything. I was using J50 and switched to GL 70/30 because of this problem. Now I pay more shipping and still have the same problem. Last night I made 10 candles, 2 of each scent. I did everything by the book..Used the formula for % and so on. Heres what I did..Measured 11.75oz wax, 1.4oz of sticky stuff and .84oz of FO. Some of the jars I used 1.4oz of J50 as I was told I can do by GL. I heated wax to 190, added color, liquid dye, stirred and added FO. Removed from heat and cooled to 175 and poured into heated jar (room temp) Out of 10 candles, 1 turned out perfect, not a wet spot and adhered to jar 100%. I'm even getting a little bit of frost lines on some of them. My jars are the salsa type from MSC in Columbus, 8oz. They burn fine! I heat gun them to fix them, but mostly the wet spots come back. I've tried washing jars and not washing jars, it makes no difference. When I wash them I usse hot soapy water with Dawn, I've hand dried them and air dried them. No difference! I've heated them in warm oven, no difference. Is it possible that it could be the jar? I pour slowly and steady into the jar also. But if 1 out of 10 came out perfect, what is the problem? They look so bad I wouldn't put my label on them this way. Also I notice a good bit of shrinkage. Adding sticky stuff or J50 or nothing...its all the same. I hate to spend more time and money on anything different until I know what the heck is going on here. Any advice? What can I possibly be doing wrong? Someone has to have an answer to my dilema, I hope! Or a suggestion. Why would 1 candle turn out perfect, donn't make sense to me. Sorry this was such a long post, but I just don't know where to turn anymore. TIA

[roady]

I also use GL's 70/30 and I don't have any problems with that much shrinkage. In fact, I don't have any shrinkage at all. Are you pouring them in a really cold room?? I know that I read on here one time to get rid of wet spots, some people put the candles in a refrigerator so that the wax will pull away from the sides???

Okay...what I would do next is call GL and ask them about your batch of wax. Maybe they can help.

HTH,

chantel

[snow]

I emailed GL and Brenda is going to call me to help with this. But yes....my room that I work in is a bit on the chilly side, so maybe thats the problem. But its odd that one candle came out so perfect, 1 out of 10. Go figure!

[Crying Moon]

Try cooling your candles very slowly. The slower the better. See if you can get 6 or 8 candles close together. Not touching each other, but close together. But a box over the top and let them do their thing. I'm no scientist, but my guess is that they might be cooling too quickly causing the wax to shrink. We all get some wet spots, so don't sweat it if it's only here and there.

[Pam W]

I emailed GL and Brenda is going to call me to help with this. But yes....my room that I work in is a bit on the chilly side, so maybe thats the problem. But its odd that one candle came out so perfect, 1 out of 10. Go figure!

the only time I've gotten wet spots with GL 70/30 was when I poured on a cold rainey day. I'm in warm AZ so my containers stay warm for quite a while. I did have two that developed wet spots but they were ones that DH took camping with him and the temps were in the low 40s - the two candles were perfect when he took them but came back with wet spots.

The one that is perfect - was it surrounded by the other 9?

Jump lines: you stated that you poured slow & steady. If the room is cool, try pouring a little quicker.

[snow]

I don't really know where the one perfect candle was or how it turned out perfect. But I'm guessing that the room is to cold. Since I tried everything else. The only heat in there is from a port. heater. And its cold here in Ohio. I'm working on getting a gas propane heater put in there. But I'm gonna try getting a styrofoam cooler and putting it over top of the cooling candles and see if that helps. Thanks for all your help! I'll let you know if that helps.

[Stella1952]

But I'm gonna try getting a styrofoam cooler and putting it over top of the cooling candles and see if that helps.

A thick cardboard box will work well also. I usually have lots of those around... Styrofoam will really hold in the heat (I use it for palm wax candles), so unless you are working in a really cold area, I think the humble cardboard box will work for ya.

[jeniryan]

I keep cooling mine covered with a cardboard box and I can't get rid of them either! We're running our heat, so it's not cold or drafty(I've been running my heat just FOR candles lol) I've washed out the inside of my jars as recommended on the board with dawn. I'm using C3, not the wax you're using and I'm about to go nuts. I'll have some out of the same batch, under the same box, turn out way worse than the others. I just don't know.....

[Stella1952]

It's COLD - wet spots happen. This is a minor cosmetic issue! Look at the candles in stores! If wintertime wet spots are your ONLY gripe with your candles, you are leading a blessed life!

[CareBear]

Might I mention something I just learned for myself (after ignoring multiple posts on this). Put your candles on a wire rack before topping with the box - the cold countertop SUCKS the heat right out of them.

[snow]

It's COLD - wet spots happen. This is a minor cosmetic issue! Look at the candles in stores! If wintertime wet spots are your ONLY gripe with your candles, you are leading a blessed life!

I could live with wet spots, and I do check out the ones in stores. But I'm talking major ugly candle! Like half the jar is adhered and half is not at all. Or great big dips and valley looking spots. I can't even explain. I would be happy to have a few wet spots, trust me! But when you feel ashamed for someone to see your candle, well you got a problem

[fredron]

You can slow down the cooling by building a cooling box from styrofoam insulation used to insulate houses. I built 2 and had lots of material left over from 1 sheet. I think it cost $9.00. You can cut it with a box cutter knife & glue it with liquid nails & reinforce it with duct tape. Mine are about 24" square and about 8" high. Cut a piece for the lid, which just sits on top. This stuff isn't very strong, so don't let it hang over the edge of the table-the entire bottom must be supported.

Freshly poured candles will take overnight to fully cool. When I shut down for the night at 11:00pm & return in the AM prior to going to work at 6:00am, they're set up but still warm to the touch.

This might help.

Also maybe you might pour at a slightly cooler temperature. I haven't read all the responses to your question, but how hot is your pour? The hotter the pour, the more shrink you will get. I melt & mix FO at 190-195, but pour at 140-150, and get very little shrink.

Fredron

[snow]

You can slow down the cooling by building a cooling box from styrofoam insulation used to insulate houses. I built 2 and had lots of material left over from 1 sheet. I think it cost $9.00. You can cut it with a box cutter knife & glue it with liquid nails & reinforce it with duct tape. Mine are about 24" square and about 8" high. Cut a piece for the lid, which just sits on top. This stuff isn't very strong, so don't let it hang over the edge of the table-the entire bottom must be supported.

Freshly poured candles will take overnight to fully cool. When I shut down for the night at 11:00pm & return in the AM prior to going to work at 6:00am, they're set up but still warm to the touch.

This might help.

Also maybe you might pour at a slightly cooler temperature. I haven't read all the responses to your question, but how hot is your pour? The hotter the pour, the more shrink you will get. I melt & mix FO at 190-195, but pour at 140-150, and get very little shrink.

Fredron

What wax are you using? I poured cooler with J50, but this GL 70/30 everyone says to pour hotter....175 I like the idea of that box!

[Beth-VT]

Um.......okay.......but what's the problem? If you're getting wet-spots, then you're going to get them not matter what. I don't care how slow you cool them, in a box or with a fox. Wet-spots like you're describing occur because the candle reaches the optimal temperature at which it's shrinkage hits it's peak, so to speak.

Cool 'em in a box all you want. But sooner or later, that wax is going to shrink and there's nothing you can do to stop it. NO ONE NOTICES BUT YOU! If you have a candle that is wicked correctly, burns properly and has an awesome throw, you're all set. That's what is important to a customer......if they cared about wet spots, Yankme would be out of business.

[Pam W]

You can pour cooler with the 70/30 - it is a very forgiving wax. When the wax first came out, the recommended pouring temp was 150* then there was some inconsistency with the batches so the manufacturer recommended pouring hotter -- I get the same results no matter what temp I pour at -- but then I'm in the desert and never experience real cold:)

[Pam W]

That's what is important to a customer......if they cared about wet spots, Yankme would be out of business.

[kimmeroo]

I have been making candles for almost 8 yrs...I have never heard of "sticky stuff"..what is it? LOL! I know ,how in the world can i be a chandler and not know what "sticky stuff" is! LOL! TIA!

Kimmeroo:)

[PurpleHippie]

I understand how upsetting this must be to you. Wet spots are ugly! I've used the GL wax in the past and I had the least amount of wet spots that I have ever had with it. However, I did have other problems if I poured too cool. Have you double checked your thermometer? I was very surprised to learn that mine was not accurate. I compared 3 thermometers and all 3 gave different readings. Some as much as 20 degrees! For sink holes around the wick my guess would be that there is something different about GL's current batch or that the candles are cooling too quickly.

I also have more problems with wet spots at this time of the year. I checked on my display last week and I was very upset to see that ALL of my candles had the ugliest wet spots, not just one or two but all over the candle! They were beautiful for the first 4 weeks. It's colder now and the electricity is turned off at night, then the heat is on during the day. So the darn wet spots appear. It bothers me because I always wonder if someone else that makes candles takes a look at mine will they be unfair with their criticism. Then again, anyone that has experience in candle making knows that wet spots are not the sign of a poorly made candle. Are you getting a good throw from your candle, cold and hot?

[Pam W]

I have been making candles for almost 8 yrs...I have never heard of "sticky stuff"..what is it? LOL! I know ,how in the world can i be a chandler and not know what "sticky stuff" is! LOL! TIA!

Kimmeroo:)

K: Don't feel bad - I think it's new - supposed to help with adhesion. I haven't used it though and I don't know what it's made of

GL Sticky Additive

Slab Form - approx. 140°F Melting Point

Made to assist with glass adhesion. This is a "sticky" soft substance that works with soy, paraffin and container blends to assist with the elimination of wet spots. Add this in as the wax is melting - not in the pour pot.

Recommended Usage rate - 1/2 to 1 oz per pound of wax.

[PurpleHippie]

SS reminds me a lot of Comfort Blend. I think that's the one that is really sticky, you have to scoop it out. Sorta like vaseline. I've added just a bit of paraffin to the GL and it works just like the SS.

[snow]

You people that are getting the wet spots, do you ever use the heat gun to get rid of them? I have done that and a bunch of tiny bubbles (and some not so tiny) come to the top. Like air bubbles, is that normal or is that what could be causing the problem? I think it was Top who said not to heat gun the wet spots. But I have and they go away and then come back!

[topofmurrayhill]

Changing waxes was probably the right instinct. If you're sensitive to wet spots then your choice of wax is the first consideration for minimizing them.

Unfortunately the wax you chose seems to have special instructions for every batch, and now a special additive. Maybe it's something like you need batch 1 of the additive to fix batch 7 of the wax but you actually got batch 2 of the additive which only works on batch 3 or batch 8 of the wax.

[Stella1952]

But I'm talking major ugly candle! Like half the jar is adhered and half is not at all. Or great big dips and valley looking spots. I can't even explain.

How's about a photo to SHOW US what you are talking about?

[kimmeroo]

K: Don't feel bad - I think it's new - supposed to help with adhesion. I haven't used it though and I don't know what it's made of

GL Sticky Additive

Slab Form - approx. 140°F Melting Point

Made to assist with glass adhesion. This is a "sticky" soft substance that works with soy, paraffin and container blends to assist with the elimination of wet spots. Add this in as the wax is melting - not in the pour pot.

Recommended Usage rate - 1/2 to 1 oz per pound of wax.

Thanx! Pam...I did feel kinda dumb fo a minute..glad to hear it is fairly new!! Kimmeroo