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Is this normal for Glass Glow? Photo of Huge flame


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Starting burning the 3 1/2" container with a CSN 16 today...not waiting since I want to test burn more than HT. First burn it was a huge flame (no different than Cotton, CD, LX or RRD wicks). Same shell on top with MP underneath. 2nd burn into it at 2 hours, and still a huge flame although it's probably 1/4" shorter than it was the first 30 minutes. So far the container is still just barely warm to the touch, same after the 1st 4 hours. Since these wicks are specific to palm wax, I think it's just the nature that this wax burns with a huge flame. I know for sure I won't be making any palm pillars anytime soon, the containers are hard enough to wick. One thing I can say about these wicks, I got a tiny, tiny shroom on the first burn and nothing now. They do self-trim, but the flame stays really straight so they aren't burning to one side like most self-trimming wicks. Not really sure I like them any better than cotton wicks.

I hear you. So far I've only successfully wicked a 16 oz mason and a 5 oz bulb jar. That took 6 months! Still working on the pillars (along with a ton of other projects).:angry2:

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Stella, have you tried the CSN wicks? They are designed to burn in palm wax.

I guess I am in the minority but I have no issues with large flames when I wick properly with the the CSN's. Anything under 3 inches I single wick. 3 plus I double wick.

I have no problems either, but tons of testing and headaches got me here. I use CSN's & CD's in my containers.

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The way I figure it - CS is selling the Glass Glow and they spent the bucks on development of the wicks. Why break up a matched set? Started with them and (other than adjusting sizes) I haven't tried anything else.

Because some people seem to think if they go off in several directions, they can post about all their results and it makes them look more scientific.

:D

Sorry, I couldn't resist, plus I wanted to up my post count. I'm lagging.

www.SunshineWaxWorks.com

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Well, so much for this one...it's now tunnelling after 5 hours on the 2nd burn. I'm not sure if it's because I only cured it for 4 days of if it's due to the CSN wicks. I really hope it's the cure time because I wanted these for Christmas gifts and don't want to have to remelt them!! I'm really thankful that the only sale I have in palm wax is for a wedding and it's not until April. This wax makes working with soy easy!

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Well, so much for this one...it's now tunnelling after 5 hours on the 2nd burn. I'm not sure if it's because I only cured it for 4 days of if it's due to the CSN wicks. I really hope it's the cure time because I wanted these for Christmas gifts and don't want to have to remelt them!! I'm really thankful that the only sale I have in palm wax is for a wedding and it's not until April. This wax makes working with soy easy!

Cure time has nothing to do with it. You need to double wick that container. As I said in my previous post anything over 3 inch needs to be double wicked in the GGlow. At least from my testing, that is what I have found, to prevent the large flames and to get a nice burn.

If you have not invested in a CSN wick kit I would now. 2-CSN 7 or CSN 9 should work nicely in a 3 1/2 inch container with 5% FO load.

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You should listen to jakalex. I've burned her candles. Perfect burns. I don't know how long it took her to master this wax, but she knows what she's talking about. When she posts, she isn't guessing and she posts from experience. If I were going to use this wax, I would do what she suggested.

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Thanks Sliver.

I love this wax and that is why I have spent countless hours testing to get a good burn.

I know for sure I won't be making any palm pillars anytime soon, the containers are hard enough to wick.

Actually, I found the CS Palm pillars to be easier to wick than the GGlow. I make the 3" round and fluted and use the CSN 14 spooled wick. It has a nice shell that will eventually consume. Sometimes there is a thin shell left but that is the nature of the Palm Pillar wax.

I do know a few candle makers that use the CSN 26 spooled wicks in the 3" but I have not tested those. I prefer the shell for the luminary effect.

Note: At first I did have problems with blowouts with the pillars. In testing I learned if you start poking your first relief holes once the top shell forms, and then once again a few hours later, there are no blowout problems.

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Thanks Sliver.

I love this wax and that is why I have spent countless hours testing to get a good burn.

Actually, I found the CS Palm pillars to be easier to wick than the GGlow. I make the 3" round and fluted and use the CSN 14 spooled wick. It has a nice shell that will eventually consume. Sometimes there is a thin shell left but that is the nature of the Palm Pillar wax.

I do know a few candle makers that use the CSN 26 spooled wicks in the 3" but I have not tested those. I prefer the shell for the luminary effect.

Note: At first I did have problems with blowouts with the pillars. In testing I learned if you start poking your first relief holes once the top shell forms, and then once again a few hours later, there are no blowout problems.

Thanks for the advice on both the container and pillar. I'll still probably never make pillars with palm! I haven't even made a soy pillar yet...only votives and I hated making those.

This "shell" is almost 1/2" shell all the way around. Honestly, I got a better burn with cotton wicks and the container was only 1/8" smaller...I could live with a small shell, but this is too much. I'll go back to cotton wicks in this wax for the large containers as the glass did not get too hot. I need to test burn one of the tiny containers to see if CSNs are ok in those.

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I have also been using GG for many months now and haven't experienced the problems you've described UNTIL this week. I pulled out a fresh candle and started the burn. The flame was out of control. Since this is the first time this has happened after many months of burning this wax, it couldn't be the wick that is the problem. (I use CSN 12 for my 3" containers) So I pulled out another fresh candle to watch the burn from the very beginning. What is apparently happening (at least with my candles) is that there were many caverns underneath the very top thin layer of the candle (this batch must have cooled quicker than all of my other candles). When the melt pool began to form, it trickled into all of the little tunnels leaving no melt pool ... just a wick that is now exposed and is suddenly 1" long instead of 1/4" long. The flame height suddenly increased 4 times higher than it should have been. I think this would be true whether you use a CSN 5 or 12. I blew out the candles, trimmed the wick to 1/4" and relit them. Once the "caves" were full of wax so that a normal melt pool could form, the candle started burning properly.

Just to make sure, I poured 4 GG containers as I usually do (same wicks, same containers)....except this time, I made sure they wouldn't cool too fast AND I poked relief holes and did a re-pour. I test burned them this morning and they are performing beautifully. Hopefully this is the answer because I really do love this wax and would hate to stop using it. :undecided

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I use palm wax from Candles & Supplies in PA and use an LX-26 or 30 wick, also from Candles & Supplies. (18 oz jar). I found that if you poke the relief holes a couple of times while cooling, the flame is fine. If you try to skip that step...you're going to have a cavern in the middle and a huge flame.

Hope this helps!

Anne

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Although many are advertising palm as a single pour - I don't believe it. Without poking or somehow otherwise breaking up the top of the wax, the wick will definitely flare when it hits a trapped air pocket.

I'm treating this as a two pour when doing 6 oz hex - all the same FO.

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We have been using the CSN 9's on our 8oz. jj's as a single wick and it works great so far. We haven't noticed the jar getting to hot with that wick .... however,my 8 oz. and 16 oz. apothecary jars (which we double wick with the CSN 9's), get really hot and that I am uncomfortable with. Normally we don't get a huge flame from that particular wick. I am,however,going to test the 7's and see how those work as a single and a double wick combination.

Mike

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The other day I made a test candle with my 8 oz. madison jars. I usually wick it with a single CSN 14 and the flame is fine after the first half hour or so. However, I could not get a very good scent throw or a completely clean-sided burn. Just for Sh*ts and giggles, I double wicked it with two CSN 7's. I've burning it twice (3 hrs each) and so far so good! I'm not jumping to conclusions yet because I haven't burned it to the bottom yet though. I do have clean sides and small flames though. ;)

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I tested a small sample of this wax and I also got the really tall flames. I double wicked with two CSN 7 wicks and my container was very hot! I got a full melt pool in a 3 inch container in a very short time...1 hour, maybe. I think Top was correct about high MP possibly being part of the problem.

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I tested a small sample of this wax and I also got the really tall flames. I double wicked with two CSN 7 wicks and my container was very hot! I got a full melt pool in a 3 inch container in a very short time...1 hour, maybe. I think Top was correct about high MP possibly being part of the problem.

I got the exact same results with 2 wick...container got way too hot for my comfort.

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Sometimes I think all these fo's must go to my head

I know the feeling;) ! The container I tested was actually larger than 3 inches. I think it is 3.5, never could get a single wick to burn correctly. That's why I tried the double wicking but that produced a full melt pool too quickly with very tall flames and the glass was far too hot. May not produce the same results in other glass. Seems to have worked well for some people.

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